Little Black Book

o.gif (1092 bytes)n this page we'll share our secret addresses and hand out advice and little tips to make your trip to Rio extra enjoyable.

Bossa Nova Fans

toca.jpg (13632 bytes)Are you a bossa nova fan? Boy, do I have an address for you! Toca do Vinφcius in Ipanema is a combination store/performance space dedicated to the works of the poet/lyricist/Jobim's partner and to the bossa nova in general. CDs, books, t-shirts, videos, shows, classes, etc. The store is located at Rua Vinφcius de Moraes, 129, smack in the heart of Ipanema. Owner Carlos Alberto is enthusiastically helpful and most "simpßtico."


Homesick...Can't sleep...Need postcards...

newsst.jpg (21764 bytes)This newsstand on Rua Visconde de Pirajß in front of the Nossa Senhora da Paz square is open 24 hours a day. Great place to browse or buy  international newspapers and magazines and that postcard for your mother. The other spot I love for newsies from home is Letras e Express⌡es, a bookstore/cafΘ-bar at Rua Visconde de Pirajß, 276, also open round the clock. Please note that you have to buy your papers before sitting down with your espresso. Books you can browse at your table, but you must "check-in" with a salesperson first. CafΘ Ubaldo on the second floor is also a favorite breakfast spot.

Best Bikinis

Of course, we have a store for you! We even have a page dedicated to the Brazilian bikini! The store, Salinas, is smack in the heart of Ipanema - where else? - in the Shopping Ipanema 2000, Rua Anibal de Mendonτa, 82 2nd floor. You can enter on Rua Visconde de Pirajß also, since it's a corner building.

Best Breakfast

Garcia & Rodrigues, Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva, 1251 A-B. It's a beautiful and fancy place.

Best Home-Style Cooking

quilo.jpg (7031 bytes)Some of the best places to eat in Rio - and the rest of Brazil, for that matter - are restaurants that sell food buffet-style by kilo. You help yourself to the food and they weigh your plate at the cash register like this. An impressive example is Terra Brasilis at the corner of Rua Humberto de Campos and rua JosΘ Linhares in Leblon. Other great places to experience Brazilian home-style cooking are the so-called "botequins" or "botecos," which are Rio's answer to the French bistro. Here are some of my favorites (most of these places are institutions and I've been going back for the past 25 years!): in Leblon my vote goes to Jobi at Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva, 1166 near the Antero de Quental square; in Ipanema I always eat at Doce Delφcia at Rua Anibal de Mendonτa, 55, not far from the Nossa Senhora da Paz square. It's not a botequim, but the home-style cooking is superb and the desserts are to die for.

Best All-Time Funky Place to Eat

My favorite place for a sandwich with fruit juice for decades has   been Chaika on Rua Visconde de Pirajß next to the Nossa Senhora da Paz square. Where else in the world could you have a sandwich called  Beirute Ipanema made with a very thin steak, melted cheese and fried banana in a pita bread? That to me almost sums up Rio: good food and a great sense of humor.

Best Feijoada

There may be others, but none beats the food with spectacular view combination offered by the Caesar Park Hotel high above the beach in Ipanema.  I went on a rainy Saturday and wished I could stay the whole afternoon, eating and gazing out the panoramic windows.

Best Sweets and Desserts

Visit Doce Delφcia above for amazing desserts. The best Brazilian sweets are at Petits Fours Salgados Doces at Rua Aristides Espφnola, 101 - D in Leblon. Worth a taxi trip there, believe me!  These guys are open until the wee hours and have great savory snacks too.

Best Fruit Juices

There are great juice bars all over Rio, but the most amazing one I've tried is Desfrutando in the Rio-Sul Shopping Center. Last time I counted 48 different fresh fruit juices with exciting and poetic-sounding names like siriguela, taperaba, sapoti, graviola, etc. Again, worth a taxi trip, I promise!

Best Fruit and Other Stuff Ice Creams

Well, Mil Frutas - at the corner of Rua Garcia d'┴vila and Rua Barπo da Torre in Ipanema - has goiabada com queijo ice cream!! Need we say more?

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