Adventure to India

by PhotoMann

I've been to roughly 25 countries over the last four years and I must say that India is the first place I really experienced culture shock. It can be hard going and the poverty will get you down. It's the dirtiest and most polluted place I've ever been but at the same time it's the most picturesque. Besides the spectacular forts, tombs and monuments the street life and color is incredible. There is no such thing as a dull Indian street. I shot more slides than I would have ever imagined (and I usually shoot a lot).

In Delhi I hired a small van and driver for 6 days for only $172! This covered the vehicle, gas, driver (pay, hotel & food) for seeing Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Renting a car and driving yourself (I don't advise it) will cost more per day. My original intention was to take the train from city to city but this option would allow me to see more of the people and culture driving through the countryside.

Delhi is a actually two cities in one. Old Delhi is full of mosques, forts and monuments linked to centuries of Muslim history while New Delhi is the imperial city created by the British. The difference between the two is quite remarkable. Old Delhi is much more dirty and populated than New Delhi. To my amazement the air pollution and dirt in Delhi makes Bangkok seem clean! The morning weather forcast in the paper on my last day indicated 'fog/smoke'.

Agra is about a 5 hour drive from Delhi. It is famous for its massive red fort which stretches 2.5 kilometers, crowded alleys and of course the Taj Mahal which is the symbol of India. The Taj is by far one of the most magnificent things I've ever seen. It took 20,000 workers 22 years to build. It definitely deserves more than one visit. Most people who come to see it take a day trip from Delhi by train and only see it once. I visited at sunset and again early the next day. In the first hour after sunrise it appears to be magical. The appearance changes with the rising sun. About every 15 minutes there was a noticeable change. Of course the admission price for entry at the best times (before 8am and after 4pm) is many times the cost of the normal ticket but it's still cheap. The astronomically inflated price is 100 Rs ($3.23) vice the regular 2 Rs ($.06). They don't allow tripods in the Taj and they charge a foreigner video permit fee of 100 Rs.

There is a sign when approaching the main Taj building indicating that 'photography is prohibited beyond this point' but everyone seemed to ignore it so I shot away. I shot several rolls of slides at every possible angle including arch shots, water reflections, close-ups and extreme wide angles (20mm). There are even 'helpers', which I chose to ignore, who will try to show you the best places to shoot from and then hold out their hand expecting a tip. Outside of Agra on the way to Jaipur one should stop and see the deserted city of Fetehpur Sekri which contains a mosque (small replica of the one in Mecca), a palace and much more.

Jaipur is the capital of the Indian state of Rajastan. It is often referred to as the 'Pink City' for the color of many of the buildings in the old walled portion of the city. The city has wide streets which were designed to accommodate old time elephant processions. Although it's an ancient city it has a surprisingly modern layout with streets in grids and large 'traffic circles'.

Photography stuff:

• I would suggest taking lots of film to handle the endless photo ops. However, if you run out film including Elite, Sensia and Provia is easily found at reputable camera stores for a reasonable price.
• Many places charge a fee for a 'foreigner camera permit' ($1-2.00)
• Almost all places charge a fee for using a video camera which can be $1-4.00. Fortunately on this trip I didn't carry my video camera which I rarely use.
• Keep your camera bag zipped - beware of the beggars who tug on your arm.
• Visit the street markets for wonderful shooting opportunities.
• Dust is a problem; bring a lens brush and small can of air.
• The endless supply of camel, cow and donkey drawn vehicles provide lost of photo opportunities.
• Many people near tourist sites will volunteer to have their picture taken but will instantly have their hand out once you take it.
• It's hard to stop the vehicle in the city so shooting from a moving van may be required in some cases. There are many 'no parking areas' as police will hassle driver looking for a bribe. We almost had our van impounded the first day in Delhi but the officer finally gave in without taking the bribe (He didn't want a tourist see him take it). I shot a lot of pictures from the van at the highest possible shutter speed.
• If you have a day or two left at the end of your trip in Delhi you can get cheap film processing. I had the Delhi Photo Company process a dozen rolls of slides at their express (same day) rate of $5.65. If you can wait till the next day it's only $3.25 to process & mount.

General observations:

• The driving can be crazy. The quote from my driver that sticks in my mind is that "There aren't any real traffic laws, we drive by God". They also drive with their horns blowing all the time to warn people they are approaching and/or passing. Many vehicles have "Horn Please!" painted on the back.
• Although many Indians speak English I had a real hard time understanding my driver. I think I comprehended about 50% of what he said without having him repeat himself.
• Animals (cows, goats, pigs, dogs, etc) are everywhere. I was constantly amazed to see cows walking down the sidewalk even in the best parts of town. I think they live as scavengers. I never quite figured out who they might belong to (i.e. who owns the cow laying in the median of a busy street).
• It can be easy reach your limit on temper with the numerous 'guides', beggars and hawkers. The constant onslot makes you question the motives of anyone that approaches you. It can leave the impression that everyone wants something.

Expense: The option I chose was to combine my trips to Thailand and India into one. Discount tickets from Bangkok to Delhi are readily available in Bangkok for 9000 Baht (about $360) round trip. In India expect to pay roughly $30/night except in Delhi where prices are a bit higher. And again, for transportation in country you can hire a driver and vehicle for a small sum which depends on where you want to go ($172 for my 6 day itinerary). I spent far more on souvenirs and 'art' than on actual travel costs. It can be a cheap vacation if you can avoid the numerous shopping opportunities. I was unable to resist the temptation.

Overall it was an outstanding experience once I settled into my surroundings. I would highly recommend the trip to the adventurous/hardy tourist and especially to photographers. The photo opportunities are endless.