Two desires collide to end-up mixing once again. Two stories, that of the Marquess in the XVIIIth century wearing their frocks and hoops, and the other of the Touaregs shielding from the light and the wind under their trurbans, two stories reunited within the book and its pages ..... white. This Couture collection is the reflection of this unlikely meeting that came to mind thanks to an old wizard’s book of spells ... immediately transformed into a frock. As if bound with an elaborate Cordoue leather, this book dresses a Marquess while the Marquises show tulle layers with tank tops or shirt. From there, everything becomes possible and Marie-Antoinette’s visit to the Sahara begins ....

Excentric visit, if anything, out of time and history, but actual in its propositions. As a basic silhouette : pants, short or long, snapped or unsnapped on the calf, under elaborated or simple coats, and shirts. On top, the XVIIIth Century is represented by frocks and removable hoops, the Touaregs by turbans. In the respect of a thought that uses “old to make new”, lamés, old macramés and point laces are applied on tulle or organza for games of pieces of garments over garments, flats over volumes. Superposition of eras, superposition of types, Jean-Paul Gaultier is far from having explored all these infinite variations. Another game, tulle embroidered with pearls like a “toile de Jouy”, an antique garden and a marine view full of exoticism with small areas more transparent, less embroidered which remind us of the passing of time and the illusion of trompe l’oeil. Inspired by the white pages of his book, here he layers musslin that becomes tank top or a very transparent shirt that morals cannot condemn. Squares or rectangles are superposed and always offer the possibility of being more or less uncovered, you wear these layers “all sails low” or in the contrary covering the shoulder.

Big skirts, never romantic, bring movement and a party feeling ; sometimes in leather roughly cut. The short pants dress up with Marquess coats in sober wool gabardineor in the contrary sequined, embroidered ... The waiscoats are everywhere, short, squared shoulders and fitted, “vestes pulls in stretch, wrap around or a perfectly round neckline. For day-wear, over, removable hoops buttoned to the coat like “bag pockets” therefore transforming the vision of the body volume, and these same hoops in black Chantilly lace tied over a tight dress for the evening, like an accessory that can be left aside.

But Marie-Antoinette, not satisfied with admiring the far away Saharian landscape, also steals from the Touaregs their turban which she immediately transforms into a veil turban of embroidered tulle or jet pearls. At her feet, slippers of course for the day as precious as the shoes in Watteau paintings, and sandals for the evening.

White and Ivory dominate this collection for a fresh summer and black comes there to remind us of the eternal parisian chic. A few metallic pieces, a copper orange, a steel blue, a bronze brown create the surprise. As far as materials are concerned, the modernity is in the structured suppleness of a stretch jersey and crepe.