You can choose to quilt by hand, or machine. Hand-quilting was long the preferred method, and it does give a softer-looking stitch. But machine quilting is quickly gaining popularity and is much faster to do.

Both methods require practice to perfect. With both, your aim is small, evenly spaced stitches that don’t unintentionally wiggle. Hand-quilting is a bit more forgiving of beginner’s inexperience because the stitches don’t stand out as clearly as machine-stitching.

Hand-Quilting
Even non-quilters have heard about “number of stitches per inch” – that seemingly magical number indicating quilting skill. As a beginner, don’t worry. Concentrate on making your stitch size and space-between-the-stitch size even. If you must count, only count top stitches. Six is average, eight is great, and more than that is terrific.

You’ll need a quilting hoop to hold your quilt as you quilt. The hoop is like an oversized embroidery hoop. Most are circular or oval, and made of wood. Using a hoop may feel a bit awkward at first, but you’ll soon get used to it.

Choose a size #9, #10 or #12 Between needle. (The larger the number, the smaller the needle.) Use 100% cotton quilting thread (heavier than regular sewing thread) if your top is 100% cotton. Put a thimble on your right hand middle finger.

Cut off a piece of thread about 20 inches long. Thread the cut end of the thread into the needle. Knot the other thread end with a small knot. (DonÆt double the thread.) Hide the knot in the quilt batting. To do this, start your first stitch on top, going into the batting but not backing and back up to the top to exit right where you want your first real stitch to start. Pull the thread completely through. Then tug it with your hand until the knot pops through the top and into the batting.

There are several ways of making a quilting stitch, but the easiest for beginners is to take a running stitch, trying to make your stitch length and space length even. Start by bringing the needle down all the way through the backing and up, with only the needle tip. Place your other hand beneath the quilt. Your middle finger should feel the needle to ensure it goes all the way through to the backing, and push it back up to the top. Continue down again to pick up another stitch, continuing until you have about three stitches on the needle. Then draw the thread up. Continue on this way, taking another four stitches, and trying to make them even and straight. YouÆll improve as you go.

When you have about five inches of thread left on the needle, make a knot by making a circle with your loose thread on the quilt, bringing the needle up through the thread, and pulling on the threaded needle as you hold the ôcircleö down with your other hand. You want a knot about ╝ö from your last stitch. Then make the knot pop through your last hole back into the batting by enlarging the hole a bit by sticking your needle into it and pulling the quilt taut as you pop the knot in.

You’ll slightly prick your finger with each stitch, so until you develop a quilter’s callus, you may want to wear a piece of tape on your middle finger.

Thread the machine with regular thread, top and bottom. You may choose a decorative thread made especially for machine quilting, or use monofilament – clear nylon machine-quilting thread. If the top and bobbin thread match, the tension differences are less noticeable. Set the stitch length a little longer than for regular sewing.

You may use an even feed foot attachment – a tool which attaches to your needle screw and lifts the presser foot each time the needle goes up. This moves the quilt layers through the machine more smoothly, helping to eliminate tucks on the back.

The quilt must fit through the sewing machine arm. So roll the quilt’s right edge toward the first stitching line so you can guide the roll through the arm as you sew. You may fold or roll the other edges of the quilt as well, to make it more manageable.

Begin with straight-line machine quilting. This can be done in the ditch (in the seam), but it may be easier to stitch about a quarter inch away from the seam, because then little stitch wobbles are less noticeable.

Choose a long line to go across the quilt for the first stitching, somewhere near the center of the quilt. This can be diagonal, or vertical through the center. The next line should be the opposite direction – diagonal or horizontal. This anchors the quilt. Make your other lines parallel to these first quilting lines.

Your objective is to have the quilting lines evenly spaced over the quilt surface. It will be necessary to re-roll the quilt as you complete areas of quilting.

You can lock-stitch by using very short stitches at the beginning and ending of each line. Or leave long thread tails that can later be tucked into the batting using a self-threading needle.

As you quilt, use your hands to smooth the stitching area and guide the quilt. It’s helpful to have a large surface, such as a table, next to your sewing machine to support the quilt so that the quilt’s weight does not cause drag on the needle. You may add gentle, curved quilting lines with the even feed foot also. Finish by quilting in the borders.

The more you practice machine quilting, the easier it becomes.