29. Mount Harkness and Crystal Lake

Length:	5.6 miles round trip
Hiking time:	4 hours or 2 days
High point:	8,045 feet
Total elevation gain:	1,350 feet
Difficulty:	strenuous
Season:	early July through mid-October
Water:	none; bring at least 2 quarts per person for the day hike
Maps:	USGS 7.5' Mount Harkness, park brochure
Information:	Lassen Volcanic National Park

Of the major peaks in Lassen Park, Mount Harkness is the easiest climb, but it has a full complement of views that rivals those of its sibling summits. Most people do Harkness as a day hike, but if you're set on backpacking you'll find the occasional level patch among trees. If you do an overnighter, bring all your water and obtain a permit from the Loomis Museum at the park's northwest entrance station, from the park's Mineral office, or from the Almanor Ranger District in Chester.

On Highway 36 in Chester, go 100 feet east of the North Fork Feather River bridge and head north on Feather River Drive. Bear right at 0.7 mile, roll on pavement another 5.5 miles, then transfer to dirt surface that's too rough for trailers. Turn into Juniper Lake Campground 12 miles from Highway 36 and park in the lot on the right. The trail begins by site 5.

Warm up on the level portion of the path's beginning before climbing steeply south with the company of red firs and western white pines, soon joined by mountain hemlocks. After the 1-mile mark you'll pass a few level areas, obtain the first good view of the park, and then leave the forest for continuous long-range views forefronted by blue lupines and goldenbush.

Swing left at 1.6 miles at a trail fork as you continue up past basalt flows, evidence of the numerous eruptions that formed Mount Harkness, a shield volcano. Eventually ascend a series of switchbacks up the cinder cone that crowns Harkness's summit.

At close range on the summit, you'll note the cinder cone's 100-foot-deep caldera and a few stunted trees that barely survive the rough winters. But your eyes will quickly be drawn to the distant vistas. Topping the list are Brokeoff Mountain, Lassen Peak, and Chaos Crags to the west. Mount Shasta gleams in the far north, with Hat Mountain, Magee Peak, Prospect Peak, and West Prospect Peak claiming the nearer ground. The cinder cones and other volcanoes of Caribou Wilderness lie east, with Lake Almanor and the Sierra Nevada to the south.

When ready, descend to the trail fork and go left through a forest that has a few level spots for backpackers. Head right at another trail fork 1.7 miles from the summit and continue another 1.8 miles to the campground, the last section just above Juniper Lake's southern shore.

Cap off the day by making the steep 0.4-mile ascent to Crystal Lake. (The path leaves the road 0.3 mile north of the campground.) You can swim in the clear waters and enjoy views of Mount Harkness and Lassen Peak, along with other notable summits. A few western junipers call the slope above the southwest shore home; they're the namesakes for Juniper Lake.