31. Mill Creek Falls and Ridge Lakes

Length:	5.6 miles round trip
Hiking time:	4 hours
High point:	8,000 feet
Total elevation gain:	1,350 feet
Difficulty:	moderate to strenuous
Season:	late June through late October
Water:	bring your own
Maps:	USGS 7.5' Lassen Peak, park brochure
Information:	Lassen Volcanic National Park

A mile of Highway 89 separates the trail to Mill Creek Falls from the trail to Ridge Lakes. But more than the short distance differentiates them. The walk to Mill Creek Falls travels gently through forest to the spectacular cataract where Mill Creek, a major Cascade stream that drains into the Sacramento River, has its origin. The path to Ridge Lakes climbs 1,000 feet over 1.1 miles, but takes you to two lakes and gives open views over vast swathes of Northern California topography. A permit is required for overnight trips to the Ridge Lakes; obtain one from the Loomis Museum at the park's northwest entrance station, from the park's Mineral office, or from the Almanor Ranger District in Chester. Backpacking is not permitted on the trail to Mill Creek Falls.

For Mill Creek Falls, go to Lassen Volcanic National Park's Southwest Campground, which lies on the east side of Highway 89 about 6 miles north of the junction of Highways 36 and 89 and 28 miles southeast of the junction of Highways 44 and 89. Begin by site 19.

Drop gently 0.3 mile past red firs and lodgepole pines to a wooden bridge across West Sulphur Creek, a mineral-laden stream that drains Sulphur Works. The path rises and falls gently through a western white pine and red and white fir forest. Stay alert for intermittent views of Brokeoff Mountain, Mount Diller, Mount Conard, and Diamond Peak.

The increasing cacophony of thundering water announces your approach to the vista point for Mill Creek Falls at 1.6 miles. East Sulphur Creek and the stream that passes through Bumpass Hell join forces at the top of the falls to merge and plunge 50 feet into a pool. The water has created brown-red stains on the bordering cliffs that contrast beautifully with patches of green moss.

To reach the Ridge Lakes trailhead, drive 1 mile north of Southwest Campground and park at Sulphur Works. Informational signs explain the geological processes that created the fumaroles, mudpots, and steam jets that you can explore up-close via a boardwalk.

The trail begins from the parking lot's north side. Top a crest and then go up, up, and up, alternating between red fir/western white pine forest and open areas strewn with ferns and flowers. Glimpse Brokeoff Mountain to the left and look behind for open vistas of the southern Cascades and the northern Sierra Nevada.

Mountain hemlocks join the forest just before you reach the Ridge Lakes nestled in a glacial cirque. The best swimming in the chilly waters is in the deepest part of the southern lake. (Note that the two lakes don't separate until late summer.)

There are two easy cross-country routes from the lakes. You can head to the southwest side of the lakes and make a short ascent through myriad lupines to a gap. Or you can scramble up a gully on the northwest side. A 300-foot-elevation climb to the ridge amply rewards you with views of the Sacramento Valley, the Coast Range, the Klamath Mountains, and Mount Shasta.