39. Magee Peak and the Thousand Lakes Wilderness

Length:	12.6 miles round trip
Hiking time:	2 days
High point:	8,550 feet
Total elevation gain:	3,200 feet
Difficulty:	moderate to strenuous
Season:	mid-June through October; zillions of mosquitoes in June and July
Water:	available only from Everett and Magee Lakes (purify first); bring your own
Maps:	USGS 7.5' Thousand Lakes Valley
Information:	Hat Creek Ranger District, Lassen National Forest

This trip takes you to two beautiful, cirque-surrounded, subalpine glacial lakes much less visited than lakes in nearby Lassen Park, and then continues to the summit of Magee Peak, where you'll have a panoramic view that encompasses most of Northern California.

To reach the trailhead, turn west off Highway 89 onto Road 26, which begins 0.4 mile north of the Hat Creek Work Center and 10 miles south of Highway 299. Follow this road 7.5 miles through several junctions with lesser roads, as indicated by signs for Road 26, Thousand Lakes Wilderness, and Cypress Camp. At 7.5 miles turn left onto Road 34N60 for the last 2.6 miles to the parking area, marked by a "Thousand Lakes Wilderness-Cypress Camp" sign.

Walk up the rough road, bearing right and then left at two intersections within the first 200 yards, then cross seasonal Eiler Gulch Creek. From here, the trail climbs southeast at a moderate grade under the partial shade of white fir, Jeffrey pine, and the occasional western juniper and then levels at 1.7 miles upon reaching the Thousand Lakes Wilderness boundary.

You'll reach a trail fork 0.25 mile farther. Bear right, then right again, at two other trail forks within the next 0.7 mile. The path then climbs gently through a forest of red and white fir and lodgepole and western white pine. Pinemat manzanita covers the ground, but you'll also see greenleaf manzanita, bush chinquapin, tobacco brush, and numerous wildflowers.

Forest-encircled Everett and Magee Lakes lie 1.8 miles past the last trail junction at an elevation of 7,200 feet. Both boast good views of the misnamed but magnificent Red Cliff to the south and the rest of the glacial cirque to the west, and offer excellent swimming opportunities in late summer. You can camp at either lake, although Magee has more sites.

For the final 1.8-mile push to Magee Peak, bear right at the trail fork by Magee Lake. As you climb steadily and enjoy increasingly open views of the surrounding mountains, the red fir disappear as mountain hemlock and whitebark pine, which can better handle winter's fierce winds and heavy snowloads, take over. Note the various basaltic and other types of multicolored volcanic rocks.

You'll crest the ridge 1.5 miles from the lake. From here, take the faint path on your right 0.3 mile to Magee Peak summit, elevation 8,550 feet. You're standing on the rim of an ancient volcano that encompassed 8,683-foot Crater Peak (0.5 mile north) and Peak 8446 (0.3 mile southeast), among others. Glaciers sculpted most of the Thousand Lakes Wilderness, which stretches east to the Hat Creek Valley.

The 360-degree, long-range view will demand most of your attention. Lassen Peak (Hike 32) dominates the skyline to the southeast. Swinging northward, you'll see Lassen Park, the Fall River Valley, and Mount Shasta. West of Mount Shasta lie the Klamath Mountains, which stretch south to the Coast Range.

If you want to extend your trip on the way back, turn right at the first trail fork 1.8 miles below Everett Lake. Follow this path 0.7 mile through a trail junction and past a lily pond and other lush scenery to the shores of Lake Eiler, located at Freaner Peak's base. The lake, often visited by both hikers and mosquitoes, offers numerous campsites. From the water's western edge, follow the trail signed for Cypress Camp for 1 mile past the massive black basalt flows, then turn right for the downhill roll to the trailhead.