42. Slide Mountain

Distance:	Dayhike
Difficulty :	Challenging for children
Distance :	6.3 miles, loop
Hiking time :	7 hours
High point/elevation gain :	4180 feet, 1800 feet
Hikable :	May-October
Map :	NY-NJ Trail Conference Map 43

This is the second toughest hike in the book (Indian Head Mountain, Hike 31, is the toughest). It's also the second longest in our book: 6.3 miles. Tricky river crossings (in the spring or after a rainstorm) mean that wet feet may be unavoidable. But before you flip to the next hike, you should know that the trails leading up formidable Slide Mountain are the most popular in the Catskills. Why? Perhaps folks like to brag that they've climbed to the highest peak in the Catskills. Perhaps they like to wander through the largest tract of wilderness in the Catskill Forest Preserve—the Slide Mountain Wilderness encompasses more than 47,500 acres. Or maybe it's the views from the mountaintop—views that seem to stretch to the ends of the earth. Whatever the reason, we've included it because, hey, how could all of those other hikers be wrong?

From New York City, take the Thruway (I-87) north to Exit 19 in Kingston. Follow NY-28 west, passing the Ashokan Reservoir, for 32 miles to the junction with NY-42 in Shandaken. From this junction, continue on NY-28 west for 3.8 miles. Turn left onto Ulster County 47 (also known as Slide Mountain Road), following a sign to Oliverea. Just over 9 miles from NY-28, turn left into a driveway, directed by a sign for "SLIDE MOUNTAIN TRAILHEAD PARKING." (The parking area can accommodate at least two dozen cars.)

From the eastern side of the parking area, head into the woods on the yellow-blazed Phoenicia-East Branch (PE) Trail, passing a sign that indicates the Slide Mountain summit is 2.7 miles away (you'll be taking a longer route than this—yes, longer). Cross the wide, shallow Neversink River on stones and quickly hop over two more seasonal streams that feed the river. Who can find a leaf that's been chewed? At 0.15 mile, the blazes lead across a fourth minor stream. Remind the kids to conserve their energy; you have 6 miles to go.

The PE Trail tracks eastward, plodding uphill on rugged terrain. Rock steps give a boost along the steeper slopes. To distract the little ones from the climb, look for faces in tree trunks (we always seem to find Jimmy Durante). At 0.3 mile, the trampled path dodges right around protruding ledge. Just under 0.5 mile from the start, let the kids run ahead, with instructions to wait for you at the spring. After the 0.5-mile mark, a pipe spews clear, chilly water across the trail. Continue straight (south) on the PE Trail (now a narrowing woods road) as the red-blazed Wittenberg-Cornell-Slide (WS) Trail heads left (east).

The PE Trail climbs easily over the next 0.8 mile, leading over a number of streams that may present a challenge in the spring or after heavy rains. One mile from the start, the trail crosses a footbridge. Toss "Pooh Sticks" off one side of the bridge and look to the other side to see whose stick appears first. The side trails that split right near the bridge lead to campsites that are not authorized by the New York Department of Environmental Conservation (due to their proximity to water and to the trail). At 1.2 miles, a second spring floods the trail, making wet feet hard to avoid.

Soon you reach a sign posted at an intersection that confirms that you have journeyed 1.5 miles from the Slide Mountain parking area. Here, depart the PE Trail (it continues straight to the Denning Lean-to) and turn left (east) onto the blue-blazed Curtis-Ormsbee (CO) Trail toward Slide Mountain, 2.25 miles away. (This portion of the trail is also part of the Long Path.) Notice the small granite monument on the left, dedicated to "purveyors of the Curtis-Ormsbee Trail" who were killed nearly a century ago in a sudden summer snowstorm on Mount Washington, New Hampshire. The Fresh Air Club of New York cut the trail and maintained it for many years.

One-tenth mile from the monument, the steep trail picks its way through a canyon rimmed with boulders and child-size caves. Stop here for a rest and an energy break before mounting the arduous assault on Slide Mountain.

As the trail switches above the canyon, glance back for a look into the ravine. Climb moderately through coniferous woods. Who can find the tiniest pine cone? Who can find the biggest one? At 2.2 miles (0.7 mile from the last intersection), head up a stiff slope past more sedimentary rock ledge. As you crest this section, look to the left for cropped western views; Doubletop is the most prominent peak. With a final uphill surge, you reach the 3500-foot elevation marker; camping is prohibited above this point. (Did the kids make it up the hill without a complaint? Give them all pats on the back.)

Rest here for a bit before continuing on the CO Trail. Tracking northeastward on fairly level terrain, the trail encounters spongy ground with halved logs laid across the wettest sections. Aspiring acrobats will love inching across these narrow bridges.

For the next 0.5 mile, the trail rolls through mostly coniferous woods, trending uphill. What do the kids notice about the size of the trees at this elevation? Pause for a moment to listen to the forceful wind pounding the upper reaches of the mountain.

At a junction with the red-blazed WS Trail (3 miles from the start), turn right (east). (The left-hand path leads back to the PE Trail—you'll take this route on your return.) From here, the summit of Slide Mountain is 0.6 mile away. As you continue the modest climb, warn kids about the cost of whining, grumbling, or complaining: offenders must tell three riddles or two knock-knock jokes.

From the well-traveled WS Trail, side trails branch right, leading to the edge of the ridge. From these spots, lovely southerly views encompass the Ashokan Reservoir and the Hudson River. The WS Trail sweeps along nearly level ground for 0.4 mile, where a final steep climb crests near the summit. To the left, a safe ledge offers dizzying views to the north, taking in nearby Panther Mountain and Giant Ledge (Hike 43) and the distant Hunter Mountain (Hike 38) as well as local hills.

Just beyond the overlook, the trail trudges uphill through groves of balsam fir and opens onto the true summit, a clearing with obstructed views. At one time, a pair of lean-tos provided shelter for overnighters here. Continue to follow the trail eastward for another 0.1 mile to a safe, wide rock ledge. From this spot below the 4180-foot summit, you can see, if not forever, at least to the Hudson River eastward and south to New Jersey and Pennsylvania. This is the hike's choice picnic spot. The slide north of the summit, for which the mountain is named, is the result of an avalanche in 1820, and has since been buried in plant growth.

Who can find the Burroughs plaque? It says that the author and naturalist John Burroughs "introduced Slide Mountain to the world." Indeed, this writer-naturalist (1837-1921) brought fame to the southern Catskills area and the Hudson Valley through his essays and books. His home, a rustic cabin known as Slabsides, can be visited in the 174-acre John Burroughs Sanctuary in West Park, south of Kingston.

To return to your car, reverse direction and follow the red-blazed WS Trail to the intersection with the blue CO Trail, 0.6 mile from the summit. Continue to follow the red trail westward, descending easily for 1.2 miles to the yellow-blazed PE Trail. Turn right here and trudge the final 0.6 mile on the familiar PE Trail to your car. If you can muster the strength to lick, find an ice cream stand!