43. Giant Ledge

Distance:	Dayhike or overnight
Difficulty :	Moderate for children
Distance :	3.4 miles, round trip
Hiking time :	3.5 hours
High point/elevation gain :	3400 feet, 1200 feet
Hikable :	April-October
Map :	NY-NJ Trail Conference Map 43

Whoever said that the best things come in small packages has never hiked to Giant Ledge, part of the long ridge of Panther Mountain. While the superb views from the ledge are for the big folks, the shallow caves and overlooks you pass on the way up will appeal to the kids.

Designated a wilderness area by the New York Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC), this remote section of the central Catskills is rich in legend and folklore. One popular tale discloses the details of the relationship between an Indian named Winnisook and a farmer's daughter. His mysterious death several years into their love affair led to much speculation, and intriguing stories have survived to this day. The nearby town of Big Indian—Winnisook was supposedly more than 7 feet tall—was named after him. Big Indian Mountain to the west was probably named for him as well.

From New York City, take the Thruway (I-87) north to Exit 19 in Kingston. Follow NY-28 west, passing the Ashokan Reservoir, for 32 miles to the junction with NY-42 in Shandaken. From this junction, continue on NY-28 west for 3.8 miles. Turn left onto Ulster County 47, following a sign to Oliverea. Seven and two-tenths miles from NY-28, just before the road curves sharply right, pull into a substantial shoulder parking area on the right at a sign for the "GIANT LEDGE TRAILHEAD PARKING AREA."

Walk eastward on the paved road to the bend; here, cross the road and enter the woods. Immediately, the Phoenicia-East Branch (PE) Trail crosses a footbridge over a dry gully. On the left, a trail sign announces that Giant Ledge is 1.6 miles away. Follow yellow blazes along a wide, worn path with rocks intruding underfoot, soon passing a registration box on the left. (Teach the kids how to sign in and out: it helps park officials keep track of trail usage and also lets them know if any hikers are still out on the trails.)

The kids will have fun balancing on logs that span a sometimes-soggy area. As you hike through this deciduous forest, find a maple tree to examine. Ask the kids whether the leaves on a given tree are all the same size and shape. (No. Their size and shape vary with their age and position on the tree.) Who knows what we make with the sap from the sugar maple tree? (Maple syrup!) If you're hiking in autumn, you'll notice that the red or swamp maple tree is among the first to change color; its leaves contain a significant amount of red pigment called anthocyanin.

Just 0.15 mile from the start, cross a creek over a solid footbridge. In another 0.1 mile, the trail sweeps northeastward and begins a moderate ascent on ledge with roots occasionally spreading across the path.

Following a rock slide, pick your way up convenient stepping stones. Play "Follow the Leader," with the first in line charged with choosing the best footing. For the next 0.25 mile, the trail frequently leads over rocky tracts: let the kids take turns being the leader. Seven-tenths mile from the start, the trail confronts a ledge outcropping and switches right to climb to the top of the ledge and arrive at a trail junction with the blue-blazed Giant Ledge-Panther-Fox Hollow (GP) Trail.

Bear left toward Giant Ledge, 0.85 mile away, as the PE Trail continues straight on and eventually leads to the Woodland Valley state campground. Now following the GP Trail, track along the ridge on fairly level ground. (Let the kids know that the significant climbing is over for a while.)

One mile from the start, a row of flat rocks forms a bridge over a wet spot. The trail gains more altitude over the next 0.2 mile and passes more frequent ledge outcroppings. At 1.4 miles, watch for a wooden sign that indicates a left-hand side trail. Follow the trail for less than 0.1 mile to a pipe that sends icy springwater splashing across the trail. Take a rest in this area. The kids can play on the natural jungle gym created by the ledges on the uphill side of the trail.

Back on the main trail, look carefully for a child-size cave on the left as you begin another stiff ascent on rock steps. Because this climb will be demanding on little legs, allow the kids frequent stops to explore the curious overhangs and the tiny caves that hide among the rocks. The ancient Romans believed that nymphs and sibyls lived in caves like these. The kids can probably make some more accurate guesses as to what kinds of creatures call these caves home.

Soon the trail crests, arriving at crisscrossing unmarked trails atop the ridge. From here you can choose a route to nearby Giant Ledge. Avoid the main trail that heads down the center of the ridge and offers limited views. Instead, follow the side trails that lead left and right to the protruding rocks along the long ridge known collectively as Giant Ledge. The long-range views from both sides are spectacular.

The right-hand trail leads to the ridge's eastern edge, with the first overlook at 1.5 miles. Here, the ledges are tiered, so while you won't need to restrain the kids completely, do keep them from wandering to the lower tier, which ends in a sheer drop-off.

From the relatively safe upper ledge, the views are splendid, taking in the Catskills to the east and south, notably Wittenberg Mountain and Slide Mountain (Hike 42).

From here, follow the unblazed path that heads westward toward the center of the ridge. Soon you arrive at a lovely, but unauthorized, campsite protected by rock walls and sheltered under a ceiling of hemlocks. Continue westward to another overlook. The extensive vistas take in the western Catskills, with Big Indian Mountain dominating the horizon. Parents can relax on this overlook: there are no dangerous cliffs to detract from your enjoyment.

It's best for families to turn around at this point, because as the trail continues it inches closer to the edge of the cliffs, especially on the eastern side. From the campsite, pick up the blue-blazed trail that leads southward down the center of the ridge, returning to your car the way you came.