7th Edition - November 1995, Heidelberg, Germany
This attitude originates from the fact that the Rhine valley was and is a natural and, since the Celt's, a much used middle European, North-South connection. All wars and migrations have left their traces. The city was burned or fell into ruins on its own about once every century and was never spared the accompanying mess.
Heidelberg is 800 years old. For 600 years (with some lengthy interruptions), there has been teaching at the venerable University (at this time there are 30,000 students). Since 1945, there are 20,000 resident Americans living here in two of their own suburbs. In total, Heidelberg has approximately 135,000 residents. It is not easy to say from where the attraction originates. Our museum's director claims it's the ideal romantic topological location. Anyway, it is there and those, who ever took a quill in order to write poetry, dedicated glowing words to Heidelberg.
The famous German romantic poet Friedrich Hölderlin wrote:
How long I've loved you, happy To call you mother, to sing you a little song, You most lovely of all cities That I've seen in our land. Like the forest bird winging over the peak, Your bridge spans the shining stream, Light and strong, ringing With wagons and men. Crossing the bridge I am seized By a sense of magic, perhaps Sent by the Gods, then in the Hills suddenly an enchanting view afar.
Some restaurants
to start with:
Probably the oldest "Bürgerhaus" (private home) and most photographed building, next to the castle and old bridge, Zum Ritter (20203) on Hauptstraße next to the Heiliggeistkirche. From inside and out, it is very nice. Extensive, classic menu; specialities from "Baden". Upper price range and very good quality.
In the Hackteufel (27162) on Steingasse directly next to the old bridge, the boss himself cooks. One could describe the kitchen as German and long-established. Here one can learn how good classic German dishes can taste; delicious sauces, respectable portions. Upper price range. Try 'Rumpsteak mit Zwiebeln'.
One of the nicest old pubs which is very inviting for leisure time is the Goldene Hecht (26984) on Steingasse next to the old bridge. Goethe visited here. The menu could be called exciting. Try the vegetable of the season baked with cheese on top. In general, well-priced and scrumptuous.
Two fine restaurants of the highest quality and corresponding prices: the Simplicissimus (183336) on Ingrimstraße hidden behind the Heiliggeistkirche and McDonalds (it's true). The Simplicissimus proudly bears the star of the Michelin Guide, the only restaurant to receive this honor in Heidelberg. Likewise, in the area of international European kitchens is the cooking at Herrenmühle (12909) at the far end of Hauptstraße (behind the Rathaus).
A large restaurant with a beer garden and historic hall is the Güldene Schaf (20879) on Hauptstraße. For larger groups, a medieval entertainment program is available (e.g. crossbow shooting). Specialities change often, well-priced.
A restaurant for the large appetite was the Sudpfanne: good, delicious, ample and not so expensive. The host moved with his restaurant, wife, cook and the famous menu to the Alte Brücke, now it's called Zum Spreisel (23543).
One of the nicest old student pubs is the Schnookeloch on Haspelgasse. Swords and photographs show a world of the past. The beer organ (piano) revivifies the times of royalty and peasantry. The most famous song is about our old Kurfürst who had a wine too much.
Sometimes you need a long table for a group: Edip "the Turk" brings people together in the Wormser Bräustübl on Heiliggeiststraße next to the Rathaus. Inexpensive turkish kitchen in pleasant surroundings. Try the two Döner Kebab variations and the Köfte.
Two of the author's personal favorites are following. Frau Maurer runs restaurants in the Altstadt since 45 years. Since eight years she is the heart behind the bar at the Brückenaff', Obere Neckarstraße next to the old bridge. Very reasonable prices, german food, the locals meet here, very noisy and funny when we watch international soccer games here.
The only recommendation outside the Altstadt is a very fine restaurant in Ziegelhausen Zum Roten Ochsen. Let the cook and owner Lothar Teichmann recommend his daily special menue.
To where do I disappear with my girlfriend? For this, the recommendation is small wine locals:
The Cafe Burkardt at the Friedrich-Ebert-Geburtshaus on Untere Straße is a cafe in the afternoon but in the evening its more a wine local. The Backofen (23847) on Haspelgasse. Just as small and pleasant. The Altdeutsche Weinstube lies on Hauptstraße behind the Rathaus. A good assorted wine list with many rareties from Baden and Württemberg often offered. Original Art Deco design. The owner Frau Witter is very kind. The smallest and cosiest is the Florian in Floringasse. Be there at 6 p.m.A pub of a special type with a run-down but, for this reason, "holy" interior is the Weinloch (wine hole) on Untere straße. The ambiance fits the name. Even though almost no tourists dare to go in, they are usually treated well. Very funny if you understand the local dialect.
To see and to be seen: A Lichtenstein and Warhol inspired pub right next to "Weinloch": the Pop. Food is good (italian), but the bar is more important.
The Bistro
near the old bridge is a cozy place in the French bistro style.
Fridays
at 11.15 p.m. all the
people meet here. Above the entrance hangs
the sign "Zur alten Brücke" - to everybody's confusion.
Recently the scene has moved out for the most part to Max Bar at Marktplatz. In front of and next to it, one can sit in the sun and listen to the Glockenspiel (carillon) from the Rathaus when the chiming of the Heiliggeistkirche does not drown everything out.
As it becomes pretty late and nobody feels like going to bed, it's just right in the PF (Prinz Friedrich) on Kettengasse. In Pitt's opinion, only bearable after sufficiently many drinks is the Hammond organ that hums on until 3 a.m.
Some more discos: Cave on Krämergasse is a jazz club from 1954. In fact it's a tiny cellar disco. Yet, it's very popular and equally loud - fun for dancing (till 3 a.m.).
Tangente on Kettengasse (till 3 a.m.) and Fischer (till 1 a.m.) next to the french "Bistro".
Also of this atmosphere, are the Ziegler on Bergheimer straße, a bistro/bar which occasionally has live music and the Schwimmbad (a live music club) quite far out at the Zoo and public swimming pool. It is easily reached with public transportation and has many parking places.
Pizzerias:
Beer gardens Worth visiting are Alt Hendesse on Mühltalstraße, Waldschenke on top of Heiligenberg and Tiergarten-Restaurant at the Zoo and Zum Wolfsbrunnen on Wolfsbrunnensteige. The last situated in the forest with a small brook.
Watching tourists:
Address and
telefone numbers:E-mail: H.P.Meinzer at DKFZ-Heidelberg.de
Name Street Teleph. Altdeutsche Weinstube Hauptstr. 224 2 41 38 Alt Hendesse Mühltalstr. 4 48 05 1 Backofen Haspelgasse 18 2 38 47 Bistro Obere Neckarstr. 2 2 02 01 Brüenaff' Obere Neckarstr. 4 Cafe Burkardt Untere Straße 16 66 20 Cafe Journal Hauptstr. 162 16 17 12 Cafe Knösel Haspelgasse 20 2 23 45 Cave Krämergasse 2 2 78 40 Fischers Obere Neckarstraße 2 Goldener Hecht Steingasse 2 2 69 84 Güldenes Schaf Hauptstr. 115 2 08 79 Hackteufel Steingasse 7 2 71 62 Kurpfälzisches Museum Hauptstr. 97 2 40 50 Le Palme Hauptstr. 187 2 22 44 Max-Bar Marktplatz 5 2 44 19 Pop Untere Str. 17 2 55 59 Prinz Friedrich Kettengasse 9 2 05 09 Schafheutle Hauptstr. 94 2 13 16 Schnookeloch Haspelgasse 8 2 27 33 Schwimmbad Musicclub Tiergartenstr. 13 47 02 01 Simplicissimus Ingrimstr. 16 18 33 36 St. Florian Floringasse 4 Tangente Kettengasse Tiergarten-Restaurant Tiergartenstr. 3 47 49 32 Waldschenke Heiligenberg 48 03 37 Weinloch Untere Str. 19 2 50 93 Wormser Bräustübl Heiliggeiststr. 3 2 33 30 Ziegler Bergheimer Str. 1b 2 53 33 Zum goldenen Ochsen Brahmsstr. 6 80 13 08 Zum Ritter Hauptstr. 178 2 02 03 Zum Spreisel Neckarstaden 66 2 35 43 Zum Wolfsbrunnen Wolfsbrunnenst. 15 80 37 58 Zur Herrenmühle Hauptstr. 237 1 29 09
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