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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
S T M O N I T O R S A N D S C R E E N R E S O L U T I O N S
---oOo---
- some basic info, ideas and definitions from jfw -
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Here's some snippets that I hope will be of use to anyone who's ever wondered
whether a secondhand monitor would work with their ST.
Read on for info on the ST's screen resolutions; the difference between a TV and
a monitor; colour monitors, mono monitors and multi-sync monitors; buying a
secondhand monitor; plus additional info about 'alien' monitors that will also
work with the ST.
To start with, let's have a look at the three screen resolutions that the ST is
capable of and the screens you'll need to display them.
The ST's screen resolutions
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The ST can run in three different resolutions: low, medium or high.
Low res = a screen 320 pixels wide x 200 pixels deep with 16 colours. Low
res is mostly used for games, art programmes and colour graphics.
It's great for colour but doesn't have the detail (i.e. number of
pixels needed) for 'serious' programmes. Can be used on a TV or
colour monitor.
Med res = a 640 x 200 screen with 4 colours. Med res is mostly used for WP,
reading text from the screen, utilities and other 'serious'
programmes where more detail is needed on the screen. Can be used
a TV or colour monitor.
High res = a 640 x 400 screen with two colours: black and white. High res is
used for DTP, heavyweight MIDI progs, and any other application
where detail is far more important than colour.
High resolution requires a high res monochrome monitor, but some,
although not all, mono programmes can be run on a colour screen
with a piece of software called a 'mono emulator', such as Sebra,
MonoEmu or the commercial Monulator.
The rule of thumb with screen resolutions is that the lower the resolution the
more colours you can use, and the higher the res, the more detail you can have.
Low res and med res programmes need a colour monitor or TV, and high res progs
need a high res (monochrome) monitor. This means that you need two monitors to
get the most from your ST, unless you're lucky enough to have a multi-sync
monitor that can display all three resolutions on the same screen.
But what's a Monitor, and how does it differ from a TV?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
A TV consists of a screen (a Cathode Ray Tube, or CRT) connected to a built-in
television receiver. The screen quality tends to be on the low side as it's
designed to be viewed from a distance.
When you connect a TV to an ST, the Red, Green and Blue (RGB) signals from the
computer are mixed together and are squirted down the co-axial lead (TV aerial-
style) to the TV. The TV receiver then decodes the mixed signal into the
separate RGB signals that the CRT needs. This, along with the lower quality of
the hardware, means that a TV display tends to be blurred and unsteady.
If your TV has a SCART socket (the flat D-shaped connector that you see on the
back of most modern VCRs), then you can improve the display by investing in an
'ST to SCART' lead that plugs into the monitor socket and sends the ST's RGB
signals to the TV without any form of mixing. This gives you a display that's
almost - but not quite - as good as a colour monitor.
A Monitor, on the other hand, is a high-quality television set without the
television receiver. The CRT is built to a higher standard so that it can be
viewed from a distance of two to three feet without causing eye-strain.
The ST's RGB signals go straight to the monitor's CRT and this, along with its
higher-quality hardware, means that the display will always be steady, clear and
crisp.
Colour Monitors
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The most popular choices for a colour monitor are the Phillips 8833, the
Commodore 1084 (a rebadged Phillips 8833) and Atari's own SC1224 and SC1435
monitors. The SC1224 has a 12" screen, and the later SC1435 has a 14" screen and
a swivel base. All of these give a good quality display and have amplifiers and
speakers built into them.
Another possibility is to use a colour monitor from an old Amstrad CPC 464 or
CPC 6128 set-up. These were the first home computers to be supplied as a
complete package (with either green or colour screens) and the colour monitor,
although not up to the standard of the Phillips 8833, gives a far better display
than a colour television. It can be connected to an ST via an easily made lead.
Later versions of the 6128 used a different connector for the colour monitor:
see the wiring diagram in the Lead 2 at the end of this article for more info.
Mono Monitors
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back in 1984 Atari decided to design their new machine with the best display
ever seen on a small computer. The result was the rock steady 640 x 400 pixel ST
high resolution. This screen display is still good today and is particularly
suitable for anyone who needs to work all day without the risk of eyestrain.
The only drawback to high res is that it needs a special monitor, and thus can't
be displayed on a TV or colour monitor. The reason for this is that high res
mode uses a much higher synchronisation rate than either low or medium res, and
this higher sync rate can only be matched by a dedicated monochrome monitor.
"So why not use a PC monitor?" The trouble there is that most mono PC monitors
only synchronise to 60Hz and are therefore unable to lock onto the ST's higher
mono mode rate. But it is possible to link a colour SVGA screen to the ST to act
as a mono monitor, and there's a diagram at the end of this article (Lead 1)
that shows you how to make the lead you'll need.
[See also: 'ST High res from a PC monitor' article elsewhere in this section.]
I hadn't realised just how many different versions there are of the Atari mono
monitor until I came to write this article. There's the original SM124 with its
superb 12" non-glare, rock steady white phosphor screen, plus the almost
identical SM 125 with its swivel base and extra controls, but what about the
SM144, 146, 147, 194 and 195 models?
The SM144 was Atari's first attempt at a 14" high res monitor. Poor quality
control caused many of them to be returned under guarantee, and as a result it
was soon replaced by the SM146 and SM147. These monitors have a flatter screen
than the original 12" models and a more modern styling.
The SM194 and SM195 were 19" high res monochrome monitors aimed at the
professional end of the Atari TT market. (The TT, or 'Thirtytwo Thirtytwo', was
a 68030-based machine that failed to sell in the UK because of its high price.)
These monitors offer screen resolutions of up to 1,280 x 960 (the highest
resolution possible on a TT) and were later renamed as the TTM194 and TTM195
respectively. But this is all irrelevant really, because none of us are ever
likely to see one, and I'm not sure if it could be connected to an ST in the
first place!
Multi-sync Monitors
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The only way you can display all three resolutions on the same screen is with an
expensive multi-sync monitor. If you're offered one of them, then check its
specifications to see if it can synchronise down to 15 KHz. (Most modern
monitors will only sync down to 30KHz and thus can't display the ST's colour
modes.) If it can, and it's cheap, then you've got an ideal solution to the ST's
'two monitors needed' problem! The high res display will never be *quite* as
good as a dedicated mono monitor, but the ability to switch between colour and
mono modes by simply flicking a switch will probably make up for it.
I know that NEC multi-syncs have been persuaded to work with STs [see KelAUG 9
for more info and a wiring diagram], but there must be other makes and models
that are capable of it. Any recommendations anyone?
Final Thoughts
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Atari mono and colour monitors can be bought secondhand for £30 - £50 now
(depending on how much use they've had). The main things to watch out for are
that the display is bright, steady and clear - with no flickering or distortion
- and that there's no trace of screen burn. Screen burns occurs when the monitor
has been left running for long periods, and results in a ghost image (usually of
the Desktop) being burnt into the phosphor coating of the tube. This will be
visible on the screen even when the monitor is turned off
A good tip is to leave the monitor running for a good 30 minutes before parting
with your money. If the screen's still clear and distortion free - and there's
no nasty ozone smells or crackling coming from inside the case - then it's
probably OK.
john
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
All info comes from Paul Rossiter's 'Monitors' article in
ST Applications, issue 40 (April 1994), and back issues of Sten.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lead 1 : to connect a VGA monitor for ST high res use
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[See also the 'PC Monitor as ST mono screen' article in this issue]
Numerals = pin numbers on relevant connectors.
ST monitor connector PC connector
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~
+-------- 1 Red
|
11 (mono out) ------------------------------------------ 2 Green
|
+-------- 3 Blue
12 (vertical sync) ------------------------------------- 14
9 (horizontal sync) ----------------------------------- 13
13 (ground) -------------------------------------------- 4, 5, 6, 7,
| 8, 10, 11
4 (mono detect) --------+
1 (audio out) ----------------------------------------- to amplifier
Maplins part: JW95D Maplins part: JW78K
Lead 2 : to connect an Amstrad CPC 464 or 6128 monitor for ST colour use
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ST Amstrad
~~ ~~~~~~~
7 (Red) -----------------RRRRR------------------------- Red
6 (Green) -----------------RRRRR------------------------- Green
10 (Blue) -----------------RRRRR------------------------- Blue
12 (VSync) ------ZZZZZ--------------+
|--------------------- Sync
9 (HSync) ------ZZZZZ--------------+
13 (Ground) ----------------------------------------------- Ground
1 (Audio) ----------------------------------------------- to amplifier
RRRRR = 47 ohm 0.25 watt resistor + ZZZZ = 4700 ohm 0.25watt resistor
NB: the 6128 used an 8 pin connector, compared to the the 464's 6 pin one, so
here's the layouts for both of them. (These plugs are in fact round...)
/---[]---\ /---------\
/ \ / 2,G \
/5,Grnd 1,R\ / 4,R 3,n/c\
| | | |
| 6,n/c | | 8,Grnd |
| | | 1,Sync 5,B|
\4,Sync 2,G/ \ /
\ / \7,AudL AudR6/
\ 3,B / \ /
-------- ----------
OLD (464) CONNECTOR NEW (6128) CONNECTOR
Maplins part no: HH44X (6 pin DIN) Maplins: FJ97F (8 PIN DIN)
Cable = Maplins 9-way screened: XR26D
~~~ eof ~~~