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TEXT_STSWITCH.QAT
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TEXT_STSWITCH.QAT
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1998-12-10
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71 lines
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
M O V E T H A T S W I T C H !
---oOo---
by Bob Morrow
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Did you ever stop to think that the only other place that could be worse than
the back of the machine for the power switch would be on the bottom?
My ST is under a shelf that allows for about 3 inches of clearance, not quite
enough to fit my hand under it to turn it on. (disk access is still easy) I got
sick of reaching around the back to turn on the machine, so I developed a remote
switch for it. This remote switch can be placed anywhere you like, limited only
by the length of the wire you install. Mine is just to the left of the ST, like
another mouse on the other side. The existing switch stays in place but is
overridden. It should cost about $5-10 to do, and takes about 1 hour.
All the parts are available at Radio Shack. A small plastic box (RS 270-230)
holds the switch (RS 275-690). (Rubber feet may be necessary if it's to be
mounted on a surface that shouldn't be scratched.) A length of 2 conductor 18-
gauge wire runs from that box to inside the ST. I ran it through the hole where
the RF modulator would be since my 1040STf doesn't have one. If you do that, the
wire needs to be 18" long for locating it on the left side. It is also possible
to run it through the case over the cartridge port if you don't use that; in
that case, a 12" wire will do. Heck, if you want the switch 25' away, then
that's possible too!
Turn off the computer and unplug everything leading into it. Remove the top half
of the case and the RFI shielding over the power supply. Solder one end of the
wire to the two switch posts on the power supply. Don't worry about polarity; it
doesn't matter. If you find it easier, remove the power supply. Snake the wire
under the RFI shielding and outside the case as described above. Install the RFI
shielding and put the case back together.
Drill a small hole in the side of the box for the wire to go through. A 7/32"
bit should do it. Drill another hole, this time on the top (plastic side) of the
box for the switch. You'll need a 5/8" bit for the switch mentioned; if you're
like me and don't have one that big, draw a 5/8" circle and using a 1/8" bit,
make a bunch of holes along the edge and knock out the center and make the edge
smooth. Put the switch in the hole and pull the wire through it's hole. Solder
the wire to the switch; again, it doesn't matter what wire goes to what post.
Put the box back together and install the feet, if used.
Try it! Your remote switch is now the master power switch!
I suppose it would be just as easy to run an extension of the Reset switch.
Though I haven't done that, the procedure is the same except that removal of the
motherboard is probably required to solder the wire on to the reset switch. But
it's easier to get to in it's existing location, so I didn't bother.
*note* The Radio Shack switch mentioned is rated at 6 amps, one more than what
the power supply takes in. If I remember correctly, my power supply said: AC in
117V, 5A.
Bob Morrow
(Delphi-RMORROW)
(GEnie-R.MORROW10)
~~~ eof ~~~