Usenet 1994 January/usenetsourcesnewsgroupsinfomagicjanuary1994.iso/answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles

Internet Message Format | 1993-12-14 | 56KB

Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!pad-thai.aktis.com!pad-thai.aktis.com!not-for-mail
From: [e-mail] (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  American Kennel Club FAQ
Supersedes: <dogs-faq/[e-mail]>
Followup-To: poster
Date: 14 Dec 1993 00:00:33 -0500
Organization: Disorganized in Orange County, CA
Lines: 1191
Sender: [e-mail]
Approved: [e-mail]
Expires: 27 Jan 1994 05:00:16 GMT
Message-ID: <dogs-faq/[e-mail]>
References: <dogs-faq/[e-mail]>
Reply-To: [e-mail]
NNTP-Posting-Host: pad-thai.aktis.com
Summary: Describes showing in conformation, obedience, field, etc., under
         American Kennel Club auspices.  Some discussion of how to enter
         this world as well.
X-Last-Updated: 1993/10/20
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.pets.dogs:50638 rec.answers:3334 news.answers:15760

Archive-name: dogs-faq/AKC-titles
Last-modified: 19 Oct 1993

This is one of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists for
rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates, additions,
and corrections (including attributions) are always welcome: send
email to one of the addresses at the end of this article.

The multiple parts are all archived at rtfm.mit.edu in the directory
/pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, getting-a-dog, new-puppy, new-dog, health-care,
breeding, medical-info, training, behavior, working, service,
AKC-titles, misc/part1, misc/part2, rescue/part1, rescue/part2,
publications and resources.

To obtain the files, first try ftp to rtfm.edu and look under
that directory.  If ftp does not work from your site, then try
the mail server: send email to [e-mail] with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/getting-a-dog
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-puppy
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-dog
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeding
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/behavior
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/service
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc/part1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc/part2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/publications
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/resources

in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).  If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1992, 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.  This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]           USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB.

  Preface
  A.  Showing.
  B.  Junior Showmanship.
  C.  Conformation.
  D.  Obedience.
  E.  Field and Hunting.
  F.  Tracking.
  G.  Herding.
  H.  Lurecoursing.
  I.  Championships.
  J.  Other AKC Titles.
  K.  AKC Breed Clubs.
  L.  Entering the World of Showing and Breeding.

Preface

Note that the AKC has zillions of regulations covering every aspect of
show rings, trials, field events, junior showmanship, etc.  For
booklets on these regulations, you may write to the AKC and ask for
them.  They will send you the first booklet free and charge 50 cents
per booklet for more than one in a single request.  The booklets are
sized to fit in a #10 envelope; while the AKC doesn't require a SASE,
you will probably get a quicker response with one.  Write to AKC at 51
Madison, New York, New York, 10010.  Alternatively if you attend a
local dog show, some of these booklets may be available, usually
showing and obedience regulations.

A.  Showing.

When people think of "showing," they are usually thinking of
conformation showing.  However, "showing" actually comprises showing
your dog under any of three categories: conformation (meeting physical
standards), field (meeting working standards), or obedience (meeting
obedience standards).  All AKC-recognized breeds are eligible to show
under conformation and obedience.  Field trials are reserved for those
breeds bred for such work, except for the tracking trials which are
open to all, and are tailored to the type of work bred for: e.g.,
hunting, retrieving, pointing, herding, and coursing.

To start showing requires an investment of time, money, and contacts.
But it is a richly rewarding area, and there are hundreds of thousands
of people throughout the world who enjoy competing with their dogs
under Kennel Club auspices.  This article details AKC titles, although
many others exist, and may eventually be detailed in their own
FAQ.

For showing in the AKC, the only pre-requirement is that the dog be
registered with the AKC (either litter registration or individual
registration), and be at least 6 months old the day of the trial.
Shots should be current for your own dog's health.  If the showing is
in conformation, the dog must also be sexually intact.

If your dog is or appears to be (AKC-recognized) purebred but is
unregistered, you can get an ILP (Indefinite Listing Privilege) number
to do anything but conformation work. The procedure for getting an ILP
is as follows:
  * Write to the AKC for a form.
  * Fill out the form -- it asks what the history of the dog is, where
    you got it, why you think it is pure-bred.  Eg, a breeder's
    opinion that the dog is purebred, it was rescued through a breed
    rescue club, etc.
  * Take two pictures of your dog -- one side shot standing, one front
    shot standing.
  * Have your dog neutered.  This is required for all dogs that are
    applying for ILPs except for those in the Miscellaneous class.
    Include the veterinarian's certificate of neutering in with the
    application.
  * Mail the form, pictures, and certificate of neutering along with
    your check.

If your dog isn't purebred or is a breed not recognized by AKC, you
can still get titles through breed-specific, rare-breed, alternative
kennel clubs, or mixed-breed clubs like Mutt's of America or
Mix-breeds of America (there are others).  These clubs hold their own
obedience trials (usually modeled after the AKC obedience trials).
For example, AMBOR (American Mixed Breed Obedience Registry), at 205
First Street SW, New Prague, MN 56071, offers obedience and other
titles to mixed breed and rare breed dogs.  They do not have their own
special matches.  You can compete at any fun matches (where no
corrections are allowed) or rare breed shows.  UKC and SKC often
recognize breeds that the AKC does not.

1.  Naming and registration

A dog's registered name must meet the following criteria
(from "AKC Policies And Guidelines for Registration Matters")

  * Name length is limited to 25 characters, not including spaces,
    apostrophes and hyphens.
  * Letters in the name are restricted to the standard English
    alphabet; apostrophes, hyphens, and spaces are the only
    punctuation that appear in a dog's name.  The certificate
    will be printed in all upper case.
  * Lifetime kennel names and registered name prefixes cannot
    be used without the consent of the owner of the name.
  * No arabic numbers, no Roman numerals at the end of the name.
  * A limit of 37 dogs in one breed may have the same name.
  * AKC reserves the right to append Roman numerals to the end of a
    name for identification purposes.
  * Spelled out cardinal and ordinal numbers may be used (e.g.,
    First, One, Two, Third, etc).
  * The name may not contain "Champion," "Champ," "Sieger," or
    any other show term/AKC title, spelled or abbreviated.
  * Obscenities or derogatory words may not be used.
  * "Kennel," "dog," "male," "sire," "stud," "bitch," "dam," and
    "female" may not appear in the name.
  * The name may not consist of the breed name alone.
  * Names of living or recently dead persons may not be used.
  * An imported dog must be registered under the same name that
    it was registered in its country of birth.

All names are subject to AKC approval.  Names may not be changed
unless the AKC has made a mistake and the dog has not yet been bred or
earned any titles.


B.  Junior Showmanship.

Junior showmanship is for children under 18 and over [10?] years of
age.  They need a junior handler number before starting.  Write to the
AKC for the number.  How the child handles the dog is judged, not the
dog itself.  It helps if the kid has a dog that knows what they're
doing in the conformation ring, but any AKC-registered dog over 6
months can be used, including neutered and ILP dogs.  Match classes
that teach kids how to handle are available.

Junior showmanship is broken up into groups.  Junior is for kids at
least 10 and under 14, senior for kids at least 14 and under 18.
Furthermore, there are novice groups, which are for children who have
not won three first in novice, and open is for those who have.


C.  Conformation.

When showing a dog, either you or a professional hander must "show"
the dog in the ring.  Whether or not you choose to use a handler can
depend on the breed of dog you are showing: it can be hard to break
into popular breeds and a handler can help gain recognition; with a
rare or less popular breed, the choice of handler is not as crucial.
If you co-own a dog with the breeder, they may handle your dog for
you.  If you handle your own dogs, then like any "sport," as an
amateur, you need to be trained, prepared, and ready to compete with
the pros.  Take the time to learn the ropes, how to present your dogs,
and how to groom.  Ideally, you should find a mentor to help you learn
what you need to know.

A Champion must obtain 15 points.  Of those 15 points, two majors (a
show where 3, 4, or 5 points are won) must be obtained under two
different judges.  The remaining points can come from 1 or 2 (or
more!) point shows; at least one of these must be from a third judge.
A dog must win at least the Winners Dog (WD) or Winners Bitch (WB) to
win points.  Therefore, even if your dog wins a class, it doesn't
necessarily get points.  It's only the WD or WB within a breed in
competition that is awarded points.  You don't get anything for second
place, but a ribbon, some recognition as an upcoming hopeful, and some
experience.

Reserve Winners (one for WD and one for WB) *may* get points if the
winner of their sex is later disqualified.  This can happen if the dog
is improperly entered (into the wrong class, for example).  So reserve
wins can be important.  The Reserve will only replace the Winner's
position: if the disqualified Winner went on to win higher places,
those are not awarded to the Reserve (but they are still removed from
the disqualified dog).  Reserve to a Winner is chosen from the dogs
remaining from that Winners competition, plus the dog that received
second place in the class the Winners Dog or Bitch came from.

Specials are Champions; they do not normally compete in the classes,
although they may.  Entering a special into one of the classes is
known as "padding" (to bring the number of dogs up enough for major
points) and is not normally done.  Specials usually compete directly
for BOB/BOS along with the WD and WB in the Best of Breed competition
that is held after WD/WB is selected from the classes.  While they are
not awarded points if they win, many breed clubs award national
ratings to dogs based on the total number of dogs of the same breed
that the dog has won over for a calendar year.  Each club calculates
the ratings slightly differently although there are some standard
formulas.

Best of Winners picks up the greater of the points that WD/WB has.
This means that it's possible for a WD that got a 1 point minor
to pick up the 3 point major that the WB got if he is awarded
BOW over the WB (the WB retains her 3 point major).  Not every show
will select a BOW.

Best of Breed (BOB) calculates its points based on the points
available from adding all the dogs in the classes with all the
specials, or all the bitches in the classes with all the specials,
whichever gives you the greater number of points.  The points are
actually only awarded if the WD/WB is selected BOB.

Best of Opposite Sex (BOS) calculates its points based on the number
of dogs or bitches in the classes, plus all the specials that are the
same sex as BOS, whichever combination gives you the greater number of
points.  Again, these points are only awarded to the BOS if that dog
was the WD or WB.

Thus, a 1 or 2 point show can turn into a major depending on how high
your dog goes.

Group winners are chosen from the BOB and BOS from each breed within
the group (all dogs are grouped into Toy, Sporting, Working, etc.
groups): Group I is first place, Group II second place and so on.

Dogs that go on to win Best In Show will get as many points as any dog
they defeat, if those points total more than what they have garnered
so far (but never for more than a total of five points).

But the only dogs that are actually awarded points are the dogs that
were initially Winners Dog or Winners Bitch for their breed.
Therefore, specials or veterans do not get points no matter how many
dogs they won over, which makes sense as they are already Champions
and do not need the points.

The number of points obtained at a particular show is dependent on the
number of dogs or bitches present, the breed, and the geographical
location of the show.  There is a point schedule that determines the
ranges: rarer breeds require fewer dogs for points whereas popular
breeds must have more dogs present for the same points.

Keep in mind that the next new show and the next new judge may pick
the second place dog over the first place dog under the same
conditions that the other dog won under.  Different judges have
different preferences in conformation, It's usually better to try and
show under a judge that likes what your dog has to offer in strong
points.  Other judges may see something else in other dogs that they
prefer over what your dog has.  A year later or the next show, that
same judge may like your dog better.  It depends on how the dog is
"showing" each day.  Dogs have good and bad days like people do.

A short chart:

                   Best of Breed (points toward CH from greater points
                         |        from either sex of class dogs including
                         |        all specials, if also WD/WB)
                         |
                 Best of Opposite Sex (points toward CH from greater points
                         |             from either sex of class dogs plus
                         |             specials of same sex, if also WD/WB)
                         |
   (WD/WB, Specials and Veterans compete for BOB/BOS)
                         |
                   Best of Winners   (points toward CH taken from WD/WB,
                     /         \      whichever had more points)
                    /           \
            Winner's dog    Winner's bitch   (points towards CH from
              /                         \     same sex group)
             /                           \
 (first in each class advances to Winner's competition)
         Open class                Open class
         American Bred             American Bred
         Bred by Exhibitor         Bred by Exhibitor
         Novice                    Novice
         Dogs (12-18 mo.)          Bitches (12-18 mo.)      (new class)
         Puppy dogs (9-12 mo.)     Puppy bitches (9-12 mo.) (split in puppy
         Puppy dogs (6-9 mo.)      Puppy bitches (6-9 mo.)  classes optional)

The classes are as follows: Open is for any dog, and very often
winners will be chosen from this class.  Not always, but usually.
Open classes may be broken up depending on how many dogs are showing
that day.  For example, labradors sometimes have Open Yellow, Open
Black, and Open Chocolate; Dobermans might have Open Black and Open
Red.  American Bred is for those dogs born in the USA.  This class is
often used if the handler has another dog in Open already.  Bred by
Exhibitor class is often considered a prestigious class -- breeders
show their own dogs here, and winning WD/WB from this class is usually
highly prized by breeders.  Novice classes are for those dogs that
have not yet won a class and is used for practice with dogs that are
too old for the puppy divisions.  The puppy classes (6-9/9-12/12-18)
are usually for practice for young dogs although WD/WB can certainly
come from these classes.  The puppy classes may or many not be split
among the three age groups and the 12-18 group may or may not be
present at all; it depends on how many dogs are present.

A specialty is a dog show devoted to one particular breed.  Both breed
and obedience classes are usually offered.

1.  Standards

"How do you develop an eye for the 'perfect dog' in your breed?"

Books are actually a good way, especially one with lots of color
photos.  Going to specialty shows is another a good way Talking to
breeders and looking at what they point out on dogs is yet another
way.  Most people develop an eye over several years of study.

Find a good breeder to help you at first.  Make some friends or pick a
breeder you get along with and become "a little lost puppy" and follow
them.  Don't talk much, listen a lot more than you talk, and be
respectful of them.  They are really more likely to want to help you
if you do flatter them just a little, but be honest about what you do
and don't like.  You can always learn something, and you never stop
learning!  (Be sure to stay out of the way when they or their dog is
about to go in the ring.)

2.  Estimated costs

If you use a handler, a CH on your dog will easily cost you about
$5000.  If you handle the dog yourself and only go to local shows,
it's more like $2000.  However, you may need to travel some to get to
the bigger or specialty shows in order to get the majors or different
judges, depending on how popular your breed is and the show circuit in
your area.

It's the fun you have with your dogs doing all these things that is
the real reward.

3.  Finding out where shows are and entering:

If you subscribe to the _AKC Gazette_, you also get a monthly Events
Calendar that lists dates, places, superintendants, judges, etc. for
all the AKC events (including Regional and National Specialties),
including obedience, field, and herding trials.  Each issue covers the
next three months for the US.  This magazine is available by
subscription only.  Subscription Information - [phone].

_Dog World Magazine_ also lists both AKC and SKC events.  Subscription
Information - P.O. Box 6500, Chicago, IL 60680.

Breed specific shows (specialties) are also advertised in
breed-specific magazines; if the breed club is affiliated with the
AKC, it will be listed in the Gazette.

If you get the AKC Gazette, you'll get a show listing and some entry
forms.  You'll also get instruction in the booklet on how to fill out
and send in forms (also where).  That's all.


D.  Obedience.

Novice: There are two classes, Novice A and Novice B, the former for
people who have not put a Companion Dog (CD) on a dog before, the
latter for people who have.  To get a CD, a dog must qualify in three
different Novice shows under three different judges; qualification is
at least 170 out of 200 points and at least half the points on every
exercise.

Open: Open A and Open B are for dogs that have obtained their CD's.
Open A is for dogs that do not have a CDX, and handlers that have not
earned an OTCH on a dog. Otherwise, they're in Open B.  Open B is an
OTCH competition class; dogs with CDX's, UD's, or OTCH's may compete.
Similar to Novice, three qualifying scores (at least 170/200) under
three different judges gets the Companion Dog Excellent (CDX).

Utility: Utility A and B are for dogs that have obtained their CDX's.
Utility A is for dogs that have not obtained a UD, and handlers that
have not earned an OTCH on a dog. Otherwise, they're in Utility B.
Utility B is the other OTCH competition class; dogs with UD's or
OTCH's appear there.  Similar to Novice, three qualifying scores under
three different judges gets the Utility Dog title (UD).

Note that Novice, Open, and Utility are not competitive in the sense
that any of the entered dogs may earn legs.  However, it is
competitive in the sense that the top three or four scores will get
ribbons/prizes.

OTCH: Obedience Trial Champion. A competitive title earned after the
UD.  Championship points are awarded to those dogs earning a First or
Second place ribbon in the Open B or Utility/Utility B class according
to the schedule established by the AKC.  For the OTCH, the dog must
have 100 points, have won First place in Utility/Utility B with at
least three other dogs in competition, have won First in Open B with
at least six dogs in competition, another First place in Open
B/Utility/Utility B under the same conditions.  Each of the first
places must be won from different judges.  Neither of the first places
may be earned at a specialty obedience trial.

1.  Novice exercises

  * Heeling on leash; this involves starts and stops, left and right
    turns, and fast and slow walking.  The dog is supposed to stay
    with you at all times (head or shoulder next to your leg).  Figure
    8 on leash; there are two stops, dog has to stay with you with no
    forging (going ahead) or lagging (falling behind).  40 points.

  * Off-leash Stand for examination: your dog has to stand still while
    the judge examines the head, neck and back, approximately.  You
    are standing at least 6 ft away.  30 points.

  * Repeat of first heeling exercise (not figure 8 part) but without
    leash.  40 points.

  * Recall and finish: Dog sits about 30 ft. away.  You call dog and
    it comes briskly to you and sits.  On command it then goes around
    into a heel pattern sit.  30 points.

  * Group exercise.  About 10-12 dogs together go in and line up on
    one end.  Handlers sit their dogs and go to the opposite side.
    This is the long sit, lasting for 1 minute.  Then handlers down
    their dogs and do the same for 3 minutes.  Long sit is 30 points,
    long down is 30 points.

2.  Open exercises

  * Heel Free and Figure Eight. Like Novice, except no lead.  40
    points.

  * Drop on Recall. Like Novice recall, except you signal or
    command your dog to down when the judge tells you to.
    The dog must stay in the down until you tell it to come
    again.  30 points.

  * Retrieve on Flat. You tell the dog to stay, and throw your
    dumbbell at least 20 feet away. You then send your dog; it
    must go directly to the dumbbell, bring it back, and sit
    in front of you to deliver it. You take the dumbbell and
    then do a finish.  20 points.

  * Retrieve over High Jump. Like the Retrieve on Flat, except
    the dog has to jump the high jump on the way out and on
    the way back.  30 points.

  * Broad Jump. You put your dog in a stay at least eight feet
    behind the jump. You then walk to the side of the jump,
    face the jump, and send your dog over it. While it's in the
    air, you turn 90 degrees so your dog can come to a sit in
    front of you. Then you do a finish.  20 points.

  * Group exercise.  Same as Novice, except handlers are out of
    sight for the stays, and the sit and down stay are three
    minutes and five minutes long, respectively.  30 points each.

3.  Utility exercises

  * Signal Exercise. You do an off-lead heeling pattern, with signals
    only (no voice). In addition, on the judges command, you signal
    your dog to stand and stay, and then from across the ring you
    signal your dog to down, sit, come, and then finish.  40 points.

  * Scent Discrimination.  You have two sets of five identical
    articles, one set of leather and one of metal. You out pick one of
    each; the rest are set out in a group, at random, about six inches
    from each other.  You and your dog turn your backs on the pile,
    and you scent one of the articles and give it to the judge, who
    puts it out with the rest. You turn and send your dog to the pile,
    who has to pick out the one you scented and retrieve it as in the
    Retrieve on Flat. You then repeat the exercise with the other
    article.  30 points.

  * Directed Retrieve. You have three (mostly) white cotton work
    gloves.  You stand with your back turned to a side of the ring
    that is clear of equipment, with your dog in heel position. The
    gloves are placed one in each corner and one in the center along
    that side of the ring.  The gloves are numbered one, two, three
    from left to right as you face them. The judge tells you which
    glove to get, and you and your dog pivot in place to (hopefully)
    face that glove. You then give a verbal command and signal to your
    dog to retrieve the glove, as in Retrieve on Flat.  30 points.

  * Moving Stand and Examination. You heel your dog about ten feet,
    and then command the dog to stand-stay without stopping. You
    continue about ten feet and then turn to face your dog. The judge
    examines the dog with his hands as in breed judging (note this is
    more thorough than Novice) except he does not examine the dog's
    teeth or testicles. You then call your dog directly to heel
    position.  30 points.

  * Directed jumping. There are two jumps midway across the ring,
    about 20 feet apart. One is a high jump, as in Open, and one is a
    bar jump.  You are about 20 feet away from the jumps, on the
    center line of the ring. You send your dog down the center line of
    the ring (between the jumps). When the dog is about 20 feet past
    the jumps, you tell it to sit. Then you command and/or signal the
    dog to take one of the jumps (the judge tells you which).  The dog
    must jump the jump, come to you, and sit in front. (While it is in
    midair you turn towards it.) Then you do a finish.  You then
    repeat the exercise with the other jump.  40 points.

4.  Other obedience trials

There are brace classes, for a pair of dogs, that perform exercises
out of novice.  There are also veteran classes, for dogs at least
eight years old with an obedience title, doing exercises out of
novice.  A versatility class, that takes two exercises each from the
novice, open, and utility trials, also exists.  Finally, there is a
team class, for a set of four dogs, using exercises from novice.

There are often fun matches which are set up just like the regular
trials, but they don't count the score towards the title, and you may
correct in the ring.  Many people use matches as a way to acclimatize
their dog to the ring.  There are also some non-scoring categories
like Pre-Novice, again to help dogs acclimatize to the atmosphere.


E.  Field and Hunting.

The difference between field trials and hunting tests is that field
trials compete dogs against one another in their marking, finding, and
retrieving ability, whereas the hunting trials are not inter-dog
competitive (similar to CD, CDX, and UD's from obedience).

Hunting tests (JH, SH, and MH) depend on the dog scoring at least 7's
on a set of criteria.  Field trial tests will award the points to the
"best" mark, search and retrieve.  Thus, hunting tests tend to more
closely approximate actual hunting conditions, whereas field trial
tests tend toward extremely distant marks, and straight line retrieves
where speed is paramount.  Field trial tests award points toward a
championship, hunting tests do not.

There are hunting tests for retrieving breeds, pointing breeds, and
spaniels.

1. Summary of AKC Hunting Tests for Pointing Breeds (1 June 1992).

My thanks to Charlie Sorsby for the information in this section.

(from the AKC pamphlet)
"The purpose of the AKC Hunting Tests is comparison of bird dogs
against a standard, not competition against each other.  A dog must be
AKC registered in order to receive any AKC Hunting Test title.  In the
following, "Hunting Test" means an AKC licensed or member club hunting
test.  In order to be awarded the Junior Hunter title, a dog must have
received Qualifying scores in four (4) Junior Hunting Tests. To be
recorded as a Senior Hunter, a dog must either qualify in five (5)
Senior Hunting Tests or must have earned a Junior Hunter title and
qualify in four (4) Senior Hunting Tests.  To be recorded as a Master
Hunter, a dog must either qualify in six (6) Master Hunting Tests or
must have earned a Junior Hunter title and qualify in five (5) Master
Hunting Tests.  Dogs that have received a Qualifying score in a
Hunting Test at any level are ineligible to enter any Hunting Test at
a lower level."

Dogs taking the Junior Hunting Test must demonstrate a keen desire to
hunt, show ability to find and point birds, be trainable.  They cannot
be gun-shy.  They may be restrained to prevent interference with
another dog.

Dogs taking the Senior Hunting Test must do the same things demanded
of a junior hunting dog, but with definite improvement.  They must
also hold their point until the bird has been shot or they are
released.  They must retrieve a shot bird but need not deliver to
hand.  They must initially honor another dog's point.

And those dogs taking the Master Hunting Test must do the same things
as Senior hunter, but show more experience.  In addition must also
show intensity and staunchness of the point, without breaking.  Must
deliver to hand.  They must demonstrate absolute honoring throughout
the entire flush, shot and retrieve.

Qualifying on a particular hunting test is referred to as "getting a
wing" toward the title.

2.  AKC Hunting Tests (for retrievers)

2.1. JH: Junior hunter.
  * 2 single marks on water.
  * 2 single marks on land.

  (ie. Dog sees 1 bird thrown. Dog waits until handler tells dog
  to go and pick it up. Dog brings it back to the handler and
  delivers the bird to hand. Repeat 4 times.)

Distances should never be more than 100 yards.

2.2. SH: Senior hunter.
  * 1 double mark on land, 1 double mark on water  (dog watches
    2 birds thrown at the same time (actually one after the other)
    then retrieves them both).
  * 1 walk-up (the handler & dog are walking when a bird comes out).
  * 1 honor (the dog has to watch another dog pick up a bird).
  * 1 land blind, 1 water blind. (the dog never sees the bird, has to
    rely on the handler for directions to the bird).
  * 1 diversion (a bird is thrown while the dog is on the way back
    with another bird).

2.3. MH: Master hunter.
  * Multiple marks on land, multiple marks on water.
  * 1 walk-up
  * At least 1 mark where the dog goes from land, to water, to land
    (called a combination)
  * 1 land blind
  * 1 water blind
  * 1 double blind (usually run with one of the above blinds)
  * 1 honor
  * 1 walk-up
  * 1 diversion

Usually, the a master test is done over fairly tough conditions
(ie.  gut sucking mud, waist high grass, etc.)

3.  Field Trial Championships

1.  Retrievers

The dog must win a National Championship stake or a total of 10 points.
The points must be won in one of three stakes: Open All-Age, Limited
All-Age, or Special All-Age stake.  There must be at least 12 starters.
Dogs get 5 points for first place, 3 points for second place, 1 point
for third place, and .5 point for fourth place.  At least five of the
points must come from a trial open to all retrievers (not a specialty
trial) and the dog has to win a first place.

To win a retriever Amateur Field Championship: The dog must win a
National Championship stake handled by an amateur, win a National
Amateur Championship stake, or a total of 10 points in Open All-Age,
Limited All-Age, or Special All-Age Stakes (amateur handled).  Or they
can win 15 points in any All-Age stake (amateur handled).  Again, dogs
get 5 points for first place, 3 points for second place, 1 point for
third place, and .5 point for fourth place.  Again, at least five of
the points must come from a trial open to all retrievers (not a
specialty trial) and the dog has to win a first place.


F.  Tracking.

For tracking tests in general, the tracking leash shall be between 20
and 40 feet in length, and shall be visibly marked at a point 20 feet
from the dog; the handler shall follow the dog at no less than 20
feet.

Guiding (behavior by the handler which influences or determines the
dog's direction) isi prohibited.  Handlers may give verbal commands
and encouragement to the dog.  However, commands, signals or body
motions to indicate the specific location or track direction is
prohibited.

Motivational items (food, balls, toys, etc) are not to be used or
carried within 75 yards of a track.

1.  TD: Tracking Dog

To enter a TD test, dogs must be at least 6 months old and be
certified.  Certification (which is obtained by the dog passing a
regulation track for an AKC Tracking judge) must take place within a
year of the test date.

Each individual track is 440 to 500 yards long, and is aged from 30
minutes to 2 hours.  It is rare for tracks to be aged more than 1
hour.

Three to five turns shall be used, at least 2 of which shall be 90
degree turns.  Each leg shall be at least 50 yards in length, and the
first turn must be more than 30 yards from the second of two starting
flags (which are themselves 30 yards apart).

2.  TDX: Tracking Dog Excellent.

The purpose of the TDX test is to "show that the dog unquestionably
that the dog has the ability to discriminate scent and possesses the
stamina, perserverance, and courage to do so under a wide variety of
conditions. ... It [the track] can lead anywhere a person might go."

A TDX test track is 800 to 1000 yards long, and three to five hours
old. It has five to seven turns, and the first turn is open. The start
consists of one flag (you and your dog get to figure out which way it
goes).  There are at least two obstacles (roads, streams, fences,
changes in terrain, changes in vegetation, etc.), and there are two
pairs of cross tracks that are approximately 1 1/2 hours fresher than
the primary track.  There are also four articles, all of which must be
found -- one at the start, two along the way, and one at the end.


G.  Herding.

My thanks to Lily Mummert for the information in this section.

In general, for herding tests:

  * Dogs have to be 9 months old to compete in AKC herding events.
  * A dog is not required to have an HT before competing in Pre-Trial,
    or to have either test title before competing in trial classes.
    Testing is recommended, however.
  * Not all herding events are listed in the Gazette currently, but an
    updated list is sent out with each issue of the Herdsman (the AKC
    herding newsletter). The reason the info isn't in the Gazette is
    because of its long lead time. The AKC is trying to modify the
    publication schedule of the events calendar so they can get
    herding event info in there in a more timely fashion.

1. Titles

HT: Herding Tested
PT: Pre-trial Tested
HS: Herding Started
HI: Herding Intermediate
HX: Herding Excellent
HCH: Herding Trial Champion

Test classes: herding and pre-trial.  These are pass/fail. If your dog
passes two herding tests under two different judges, it earns the HT
(Herding Tested) title. Similarly, the dog earns the PT (Pre-Trial
Tested) for passing two pre-trial tests under two different judges. For
both classes, you get 10 minutes to negotiate the course.

Herding test elements:
- a sit or down stay at the start,
- controlled movement of the stock between two pylons, located at
   opposite ends of the ring.  Includes two changes in direction.
- stop and recall at the end

Pre-trial test elements:
- a stay at the start
- controlled movement of stock, including a change of direction and
  passage through four gates
- a stop at some point on the course
- a stop before penning the stock
- penning the stock

Trial classes: herding started, intermediate, and advanced.  The
titles associated with each of these levels are HS (Herding Started),
HI (Herding Intermediate), and HX (Herding Excellent).  For each of
these titles, the dog must earn three qualifying scores in the
appropriate class under three different judges. There's also the HCH
(Herding Champion), which is a competition title -- the dog must have
an HX, and then earn 15 championship points in the Advanced class.

There are three courses that may be offered for each class. The
premium list for a trial specifies which course(s) will be offered.
Course A is in an arena. Course B is a modified ISDS course; it's in a
field. Course C is a modified version of what is used in Europe; it
includes negotiating roads and such.

According to my instructors, Course A is the most widely used of the
three, so I'll describe that one.  You get 10 minutes on this course,
regardless of class.  For herding started, the dog lifts the stock at
the top of the course, and moves them through four obstacles around
the course in a predetermined order. The obstacles are chutes or gates
of various kinds. The dog then pens the stock.  For the intermediate
class, there's an outrun, lift, and fetch, with the handler staying at
a handler's post until the dog has passed the post (after the outrun,
lift and fetch).  One of the obstacles is a holding pen -- the dog has
to move the stock into the pen and hold them there for about a minute.
Then there's the pen at the end. Advanced has the same elements as
intermediate, except the course is longer, and the handler's movement
is more restricted. The other courses also get vastly complicated as
you go from started to advanced.

1.  References

SHEEP! Magazine
Rt. 1
Helenville WI 53137

The Working Border Collie, Inc. (bimonthly magazine)
14933 Kirkwood Road
Sidney, Ohio 45365
[phone]

The Ranch Dog Trainer (magazine)
Rt. 1, Box 21
Koshkonong MO 56592

Holmes, John.  _The Farmer's Dog_.  Order from SHEEP!

Jones, H. Glyn.  _A Way of Life_.  Order from SHEEP!
  H. Glyn Jones talks to Barbara C. Collins.

Karrasch, Dick.  _Training a Stockdog: For Beginners_.  Wondereye
Farm, Rt. 1, Box 42, Vandiver AL 35176.

O'Reilly, Chuck.  _Training Working Livestock Dogs_.  Rt. 4, Box 33B,
Red Wind MN 55066.

Robertson, Pope.  _Anybody Can Do It_.  Rovar Publ. Co., 522 East 2nd
St., Elgin TX 78621.

Templeton, John and Matt Mundell.  _Working Sheep Dogs_.  Order from
SHEEP!

There are many videos listed in the back of the magazines.  There is
also a wide variety of breed specific books relative to the breed of
dog you are interested in. Please write to the appropriate parent club
for details.  In addition, both the American Herding Breeds
Association and the Australian Shepherd Club of America offer herding
trials and their own titles.

There is an electronic mailing list devoted to herding issues.
Contact Terri Hardwick at [e-mail] for information on
how to join the list.


H.  Lurecoursing.

(prepared by Marcia Cavan with additional info from Carol Mount)

A "lure" coursing course consists of a line strung through a series of
wooden pulley set within a large field (many acres) with a "lure"
(usually a white kitchen garbage bag!)  attached at some point on the
line. This line is also strung through a wheel that is attached to a
power source usually a car starter motor as the lure needs to have
enough power to be kept safely ahead of the fastest of the hounds.
The hounds run within their own breed up to 3 per "heat" with each
hound running and being scored on 2 heats.  Each hound wears a blanket
(similar to at the Greyhound track) of either yellow, pink or blue
with the scoring being assigned to the blanket color and the
performance it gave.  The dogs are scored on the categories of speed,
agility, endurance, follow and enthusiasm with a "perfect" score being
100.

Up until 1992 only the American Sighthound Field Association (ASFA)
held lure coursing field trials and awarded dogs titles.  Dogs earn
their F.Ch (Field Championship) running against other dogs of the same
breed and receiving a certain number of 1st and 2nd placements AND a
total of 100 points.  The point scale is based on the number of dogs
competing and on the placement the dog receives.  Once they earn their
ASFA F.Ch. they can then continue on to earn their LCM (Lure Courser
of Merit) that requires four 1st placements over other Field Champions
and a total of 300 points.  There are then LCM II, III etc. titles

The point system is:
First place: 4*number of dogs upto 40 points
Second place: 3*number of dogs upto 30 points
Third Place: 2*number of dogs  upto 20
Fourth: 1* number of dogs upto 10
Fifth (NBQ - Next best qualified) -- no points but recorded in case
or error in 1-4 placements.

If there are enough dogs in a given breed, the stakes are split and
multiple placements (two first places, etc) are awarded.

In 1992 the AKC accepted Lure Coursing as a sport and their titles are
JC (Junior Courser) that requires a dog run alone on a 600 or so yard
course two different times under 2 different judges.  With this they
can then run in AKC trials with competition and can earn their SC
(Senior Courser) in 2 trials by completing the courses.  Dogs that
have an ASFA FCH do not need the JC title to run for SC.  The AKC F.CH
(that is a prefix to the dog's name versus a suffix for ASFA titles)
is earned like a conformation championship where the dog is required
to win 2 majors (wins worth at least 3 points) and a total a 15
points.  Dog that achieve both conformation and field titles are noted
as a Dual Champion (DC)

Both ASFA and AKC have approved 11 breeds: Afghan, Basenji, Borzoi,
Greyhound, Ibizan Hound, Irish Wolfhound, Pharaoh Hound, Rhodesian
Ridgeback, Saluki, Scottish Deerhound and Whippet.


I.  Championships.

1.  Dual or Triple Championships

Currently three titles awarded by the AKC go into making up the DCH
and TCH titles.  These are:

CH     - Champion of Record.
OTCH   - Obedience Trial Champion.
FCH    - Field Trial Champion.

These three titles can be combined in the following manner:

DCH    - One of the following combinations:
         CH + OTCH, CH + FCH, OTCH + FCH

TCH    - CH + OTCH + FCH

Any dog who is a DCH or especially a TCH is an outstanding
representation of the breed.  If the DCH is one half Champion of
Record this is a dog that most breeders would give their eye teeth to
breed to.

NB: HCH is a very new title, so the AKC rule books have not yet come
out detailing the possibly new combinations for dual and triple (and
quadruple!)  championships.

The first dog of any breed to win a triple championship under AKC was
Triple Champion Cariad's Kutya Kai Costa, VD (a Vizsla).  He finished
his Breed Championship in '76, Field in '77, and Obedience in '80, and
was trained and handled througout his career by his (amateur) owner,
Robert Costa.

2.  Title notation

Certain titles go before the dog's registered name, others go after.
Championship titles go before the name; non-championship titles go
after the name.

There are also orderings within the champion and non-champion titles.
If a dog also has a Amateur Field Championship that title is placed in
front of its name, in addition to the other titles (e.g., CH), but
behind them if they exist.

At an AKC event, a dog may be listed only with its AKC-recognized
titles.  Therefore, it may not have all of its titles listed in the
catalogue for the show.  Outside of AKC sponsorship, all of the titles
that a dog has earned may be listed.


J.  Other AKC Titles.

1.  AKC Canine Good Citizen Test

(from the AKC pamphlet)
"The purpose of the Canine Good Citizen Test is to demonstrate
that the dog , as a companion of man, can be a respected member of the
community, and can be trained and conditioned always to behave in the
home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs, in a manner
that will reflect credit on the dog.  The Canine Good Citizen Test is
not a competitive program, but rather a program of certification; it
seeks to identify and recognize officially those dogs that possess the
attributes that enable them to serve effectively as personal
companions and as members in good standing with the community."

  * Evaluated on appearance and willingness to be groomed and
    examined, reaction to approach of a stranger.

  * Evaluated on acceptance of a stranger in a natural everyday
    situation: owner and judge shake hands, talk.  Dog must not show
    signs of resentment or shyness and must remain in sit.

  * Must demonstrate that dog is under control in walking.  Heeling is
    not required, but dog must not lag or forge.

  * Demonstrate walking through a crowd.  Dog may show some interest
    in the people, but remain calmly with owner.

  * Must demonstrate that the dog will allow a stranger to approach
    and pet it.  Dog must remain sitting.

  * Demonstrates sit and down on command by owner.

  * Demonstrates stay.  Owner walks 20 feet away then returns.
    Must maintain position until released.

  * Demonstrate good behavior around another dog.  Should show no more
    than casual interest.

  * Reaction to distractions: sudden noises, animated talking and
    backslapping, a jogger, shopping cart, or bicycle passing closely
    by.  Dog may show interest, curiousity, momentary startle but no
    panic, aggression, nor barking.

  * Demonstrate being left alone: fastened to a fifteen foot line and
    owner is out of sight for 5 minutes.  No whining, barking, or
    howling.

Currently,

1) AKC plans to expand and promote the test more.
2) They do have colors for qualifying ribbons: turquois
   and gold.
3) AKC is thinking about dog tags and/or wallet cards for qualifying.
4) AKC is going to advocate that dogs that have proven to be under
   control be allowed on leash in parks that don't allow dogs.
5) They are going to ask clubs to lobby their states to have the
   test recognized as a sign of a responsible owner.

K.  AKC Breed Clubs.

There are a number of breed clubs, affiliated with AKC that focus on
particular breeds.  Besides promoting their breed, they also sponsor
specialties for their breed (facilitating major-point shows, for
example).

Many breed clubs require sponsors to become a member.  They want you
to learn from other breeders.  If you go to a show and become friends
with a breeder and talk to some others, you will get sponsors quickly.
Breeders like to be a mentor to a new member.  If you hang around long
enough and really start asking a lot of questions on the spot
(preferably when they are not nervous about being next in the ring)
you'll become quickly accepted.  Find a breeder you want to get your
next puppy from and talk with them a lot.

A sponsor is another breeder that has talked to you and told you about
the ethics and looked at you to make sure you are not likely to become
a puppy mill breeder.  They are looking at you to make sure you are
trying to improve the breed and you are going to be responsible about
breeding and showing.

Most if not all breed clubs have a code of ethics that members must
adhere to.

Many AKC breed clubs have their own certificates and titles.  For
example, the Labrador Retriever Club has the WC (Working Certificate)
title that is very similar to the AKC JH title.

There are other breed clubs that are NOT affiliated with the AKC, for
various reasons.  Examples include the Australian Shepherd Club of
America.


L.  Entering the World of Showing and Breeding.

Before you do anything else, you should head out to your library and
read up as much as you can on your breed before attempting to make
contacts.  You will present a much more favorable impression if it is
clear that you've done some reading and are serious when you come up
to ask questions.  Be aware that if you're serious about getting into
show and possibly breeding, you will be investing literally years of
your time.

While this information is in the AKC section of the FAQ, most of the
following is applicable to anyone desiring to show and breed under the
auspices of any Kennel Club.

1.  Getting into the show world

You will need to meet and get to know other people in the show arena.
This generally involves attending dog shows and talking to the owners
(at appropriate times, of course).  Joining up with your breed's club
also gives you more contacts to learn from.  Expect an "apprentice"
period as the experienced folks scope you out and decide just how
serious you are.  This takes patience, but is well rewarded later when
you have resources for the questions that will inevitably come up.

You might get the opportunity to help out someone who is showing their
dogs.  This gives you a closeup view of what is involved with your
breed and showing.

Some good books about showing (AKC-oriented) are:

Forsyth, Robert and Jane.  _Guide to Successful Dog Showing_.  Howell Books.
Nicholas, Anna Katherine.  _The Nicholas Guide to Dog Judging_.  Howell Books.
Seranne, Ann.  _The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog_.  Howell Books.
Tietjen, Sari B.  _The Dog Judge's Handbook_.  Howell Books.
Vanacore, Connie.  _Dog Showing: an owner's guide_.  Howell Books.

2.  Responsible breeding

(a) How do I go about convincing a breeder that I'm a serious prospect
for getting a puppy for show and possible breeding?

This can be difficult -- responsible breeders often form a
unintentional "club": they are very concerned about their puppies and
prefer to sell to people they know or are highly recommended.  Also,
really good breeders often have long waiting lists for all their
puppies that can be years long.  This is where your previous leg work
in making contacts among the show and breeder in your breed helps out.
IT WILL TAKE PATIENCE.  The payoff for waiting is much better,
although very frustrating.

You might "apprentice" yourself to a breeder and go over with the
breeder on the next few breedings: why the pair were chosen, what the
breeder was hoping to accomplish, etc.  And then helping out with the
new litter: evaluating it, helping care for them, seeing all this
stuff first hand gives you a lot of feedback on whether you have the
will to do this yourself.

You may find it worth your while to go into co-ownership with a
breeder who is willing to be your mentor and coach you through your
first steps.  Other contracts usually stipulate that you will get the
CH and/or CD, etc on your puppy before breeding it.

(b) Why are many breeders so difficult about "admitting" new people
into their ranks or even just helping them out?

Do understand that there are people who renege on their contracts (and
start breeding willy-nilly) and so there are breeders who are leery of
even sincere people.  This is why you should work very hard to make
yourself known as someone who is really willing to do this right.  It
is sometimes difficult to understand just how hard being a responsible
breeder is.  Usually the new and upcoming breeder gets digruntled with
how hard it really is and gets the female spayed anyway, but sometimes
they just chuck it all and start breeding without thinking about it.

You just have to get your toe in the door.  Once you do, watch out for
"information overload".  Then you will understand why breeders are so
cautious.  Then when you get really successful, they want you to do
your part and help everyone else that wants to give it a shot, or they
want help to really nail those people who goof it up for everyone
else.

(c)  What if I just get a puppy and start breeding her?

Attempting to short-circuit this process by acquiring a petstore puppy
to breed will not work in the sense that no reputable breeder will
breed to your dog.  You will not get good quality puppies via this
route.  Most puppy-mill dogs are instantly spottable by their looks
and if not, the pedigree will always warn off prospective breeders.

(d)  Do breeding-quality dogs have to have their CH?

Well, yes and no.  Of course, opinion is divided on this, even among
the reputable breeders.

Some good dogs never finish their CH's because of other accidents or
constraints.  As a breeder, you should know if your dog is finishable.
You should know its faults better than any judge that will ever see
the dog.  It is up to the breeder to understand the standard and to
honestly evaluate their own dogs.  If you are not qualified to do
this, then you need a mentor who can help you out.

On the other hand, as a demonstration of good faith and to be sure you
understand the work involved, many breeders who sell you such a puppy
will want you to have a go at getting a CH.  That way you not only get
a bit of notice in the area, but you also see what others of that
breed look like and how your dogs compare to them in general.  It also
exposes you to some of the worst ways to complete a dog's title as
well as some very nice dogs that just haven't been shown much.  This
way when you do go to breed, you'll have a better idea of what you are
breeding for.

(e) What are the responsibilities involved in breeding?

It takes quite a lot of time to learn what dog makes a good match for
which bitch.  Two dogs that are both outstanding individuals may not
produce any outstanding puppies.  The individual dogs and their
pedigrees need to be carefully studied to verify that weaknesses on
one side will be complemented by strengths on the other side in the
same area.

You should consider that thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of
puppies in each of the more-well-known breeds are registered with the
AKC each year.  Average or run-of-the-mill litters are simply not
needed; more than enough exist.  Breeding only the truly outstanding
dogs within these popular breeds would still produce more than enough
puppies to meet demand.

Breeders usually breed for a specific purpose and with each litter
they are looking for a puppy with a particular set of characteristics.
Some good litters are very uniform, but more often than not, there is
only one or two such puppies.  As a result, they end up with quite a
number of puppies that need to be placed in "pet" homes.

Competent breeders either work or show their dogs.  If they are not
tested in any way, there is no external confirmation of the dog's
worth.  Even if the breed in question is simply a companion-type dog
(e.g., not a sporting, hunting, or other working breed), there should
be temperament testing and showing to make sure the dogs are in line
with the breed standards.

While many breeds of dogs can make good companion dogs, they often do
so not because they were directly bred as "companions" but because the
traits they have been selected for are also compatible with what is
needed for a companion dog.  For example, steadiness and trainability
are needed for most of the working breeds, these are also desireable
traints for companion dogs. In other words, they make good companion
dogs because of the years of breeding for working character and sound
structure.  Keep in mind these characteristics can be greatly
diminished in just a few generations, so *each* generation needs to be
evaluated to make sure that those qualities that come together to
produce a good specimen of the breed are still present.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1992, 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.  This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]           USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
--------------------------------------------------------------------------