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Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Samoyeds  Breed-FAQ
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AUTHOR

Michael D. Jones, October 4, 1993
[[e-mail]]

Thanks to the authors of the Alaskan Malamute FAQ, which provided the
model and some of the text for this FAQ.

DESCRIPTION

The Samoyed is a strong, medium-sized sled dog. They stand 19 to
23-1/2 inches at the shoulder and typically weigh 45-65 pounds. They
are very handsome dogs, friendly but dignified.  Samoyeds are in many
ways medium between the smaller Siberian Husky and larger Alaskan
Malamute, and this is reflected in many places in the standard. There
are many similarities between these breeds, particularly between the
Samoyed and the Malamute.

Official AKC Standard for the Samoyed (condensed):
(As submitted by the Samoyed Club of America, and approved by the AKC
April 9, 1963.)

GENERAL CONFORMATION
  General Appearance. The Samoyed, being essentially a working dog,
should present a picture of beauty, alertness and strength, with
agility, dignity and grace. As his work lies in cold climates, his
coat should be heavy and weather resistant, well-groomed, and of good
quality rather than quantity. He should not be long in back as a weak
back would make him practically useless for his legitimate work, but
at the same time a close-coupled body would also place him at a great
disadvantage as a draft dog. Breeders should aim for the happy medium,
a body not long but muscular, allowing liberty, with a deep chest and
well-sprung ribs, strong neck, straight front and especially strong
loins. [Dogs and bitches] should both give the appearance of being
capable of great endurance but be free from coarseness. Because of the
depth of chest required, the legs should be moderately long.
Hindquarters should be particularly well-developed, stifles well-bent
and any suggestion of unsound stifles or cowhocks severely penalized.

  Substance. The bone is heavier than would be expected in a dog of
this size but not so massive as to prevent the speed and agility most
desirable in a Samoyed. In all builds, bone should be in proportion to
body size. The Samoyed should never be so heavy as to appear clumsy
nor so light as to appear racy. The weight should be in proportion to
the height.

  Height. Males, 21 to 23-1/2 inches. Females, 19 to 21 inches at the
withers. An oversized or undersized Samoyed is to be penalized
according to the extent of the deviation.

  Coat. (Texture and Condition). The Samoyed is a double-coated dog.
The body should be well-covered with an undercoat of soft, short,
thick close wool with longer and harsh hair growing through it to form
the outer coat, which stands straight out from the body and should be
free from curl. The coat should form a ruff around the neck and
shoulders, framing the head. Quality of coat should be weather
resistant and considered more than quantity.

  Color. Samoyeds should be pure white, white and biscuit, cream, or
all biscuit.

MOVEMENT
  Gait. The Samoyed should trot, not pace. When trotting, there should
be a strong rear action drive. Moving at a slow walk or trot, they
will not single track, but as speed increases, the legs gradually
angle inward until the pads are finally falling on a line directly
under the longitudinal center of the body.

  Rear End. Upper thighs should be well-developed. Stifles
well-bent--approximately 45 degrees to the ground. The hind legs
should be parallel when viewed from the rear in a natural stance,
strong, well-developed, turning neither in nor out. Straight stifles
are objectionable. Double-jointedness or cowhocks are a fault.

  Front End. Legs should be parallel and straight to the pasterns.
Because of depth of chest, legs should be moderately long. Length of
leg from the ground to the elbow should be approximately 55 percent of
the total height at the withers--a very short-legged dog is to be
deprecated.

  Feet. Large, long, flattish--a hare foot, slightly spread but not
splayed; toes arched; pads thick and tough, with protective growth of
hair between the toes.

HEAD
  Conformation. Skull is wedge-shaped, broad, slightly crowned, not
round or apple-headed, and should form an equilateral triangle on
lines between the inner base of the ears and the center point of the
stop.
  Muzzle - Muzzle of medium length and medium width, neither coarse
  nor snipy; should taper toward the nose and be in proportion to the
  size of the dog and the width of the skull. The muzzle must have
  depth.
  Stop - Not too abrupt, nevertheless well defined.
  Lips - Should be black for preference and slightly curved up at the
  corners of the mouth, giving the "Samoyed Smile."
  Ears - Strong and thick, erect, triangular and slightly rounded at
  the tips; should not be large or pointed, nor should the be small
  and "bear-eared."
  Eyes - Should be dark for preference; should be placed well apart
  and deep-set; almond shaped with lower lid slanting toward an
  imaginary point approximating the base of ears.
  Nose - Black for preference but brown, liver, or Dudley nose
  [mottled] not penalized. Color of nose sometimes changes with age
  and weather.
  Jaws and teeth - Strong, well-set teeth, snugly overlapping with
  scissors bite.

  Expression. The expression, referred to as "Samoyed expression," is
very important and is indicated by sparkle of the eyes, animation and
lighting up of the face when alert or intent on anything. Expression
is made up of a combination of eyes, ears and mouth. The ears should
be erect when alert; the mouth should be slightly curved up at the
corners to form the "Samoyed smile."

TORSO
  Neck. Strong, well-muscled, carried proudly erect, set on sloping
shoulders to carry head with dignity when at attention.

  Chest. Should be deep, with ribs well-sprung out from the spine and
flattened at the sides to allow proper movement of the shoulders and
freedom for the front legs. Should not be barrel-chested.

  Loin and Back. The withers forms the highest part of the back. Loins
strong and slightly arched. The back should be straight to the loin,
medium in length, very muscular, and neither long nor short-coupled.
The dog should be "just off squre"--the length being approximately 5%
more than the height.

TAIL

  The tail should be moderately long. It should be profusely covered
with long hair and carried forward over the back or side when alert,
but sometimes dropped when at rest. It should not be high or low set
and should be mobile and loose--not tight over the back. A double hook
is a fault.

DISPOSITION

  Intelligent, gentle, loyal, adaptable, alert, full of action, eager
to serve, friendly but conservative, not distrustful or shy, not
overly aggressive. Unprovoked aggressiveness to be severely penalized.

DISQUALIFICATIONS:
  Any color other than pure wite, cream, biscuit, or white and
  biscuit.
  Blue eyes.

HISTORY

  The Samoyed dog takes its name from the Samoyed tribes of Sibera
from whom the founding stock of the breed was obtained.  The name was
originally spelled Samoyede, but the final "e" was dropped by the AKC
in 1947. The word "samoyed" translates literally as "living off
themselves," referring to the self-sufficiency of both the dogs and
tribes. The natives themselves called the dogs "Bjelkiers,", or "white
dogs that breed white." The proper pronunciation of the name is
sammy-YED, not sam-OY-ed or SAM-oyed; there is no "oy" sound in the
native language.
  The Samoyed is a true working dog, having served as a herder of
reindeer, as a sledge dog and as a household companion, watchdog and
helper. The breed may be best known to the public for its work as a
sled dog in both Arctic and Antarctic exploration. As the lead dog on
Roald Amundsen's expedition, a Samoyed was probably the first
non-native creature to set foot (or paw) on the South Pole. All the
major characteristics of today's Samoyed - the erect ears, the smiling
face, the buff to white coat, and the plumed tail - are natural, and
may be seen clearly in photographs of the breed from the early 1800s.

CHARACTERISTICS AND TEMPERAMENT

Coat and Grooming

  The Samoyed is a double coated breed.  This coat consists of a
woolly undercoat and longer guard hairs.  Twice a year, Samoyeds
"blow" their undercoats, that is, they shed their undercoats
completely.  It is a very intense shedding period that can last up to
three weeks from start to finish.  The good news is that this only
happens twice a year.  The remainder of the time, Samoyeds are
relatively shed free (unlike smooth coated breeds).  The bad news is
that the shedding period can be rather messy.  The hair comes out in
large and small clumps.  Lots of vacuuming and brushing are in order.
The undercoat can be carded and spun into yarn; it is best when
blended with about 40% other fiber, such as wool or alpaca. Due to the
Samoyed's subpolar origin, the fur is very warm despite its lightness.

The Samoyed is a very clean and relatively odor free dog.  It tends to
clean itself like a cat. Even when a Samoyed becomes covered in mud,
it will clean itself. Casual observers might think that keeping a pure
white dog clean would be a major chore, but fanciers of the breed
understand its uncanny ability to shed dirt and most stains.  Even
grass stains disappear from the coat in just a few days.  Bathing
needs are minimal; thorough brushings and/or "dry baths" using a
mixture of cornstarch and baby powder often suffices. A full bath may
not be necessary more than once per year; in fact, too frequent
bathing may remove some of the gloss and stain-resistance of the coat.
Special "white-enhancing" shampoos with bluing are available to make
your Samoyed sparkly white.

Other than during coat-blowing season, the Samoyed needs relatively
little grooming. Daily brushing is ideal, but two or three times a
week is sufficient; the brushing should be thorough to penetrate the
outer coat and remove any loose undercoat. A long pin brush, a slicker
brush and possibly a rake are essential grooming tools.  Trimming
needs are minimal, and if done should be done so that it looks natural
and uncut.  The body coat should never be clipped or trimmed except
for medical reasons.  Their nails should be checked and clipped
periodically.

NEVER clip a Samoyed for the summer. After the undercoat has been
"blown out", the outer coat provides insulation from the heat and
protection from the sun. It is actually reflective. Exposed skin will
be very sensitive to the sun, and will sunburn very easily; this can
lead to skin cancer. Regular grooming and constant access to cool
water are particularly important in the summer, especially in warmer
climates.

Temperament

Samoyeds are friendly by nature to both people and other dogs. Their
demand for affection is moderate; they like being with their pack, but
are usually not "lap dogs" by any measure. This pack-oriented nature
means that they do better when included in the family (pack, from
their point of view) than when left outside by themselves. As befits
their Northern ancestry, they may enjoy spending periods outside -
particularly during cold weather - but their "place" should be inside
with the rest of the pack.

Samoyeds are quite intelligent, and can be very stubborn and get bored
easily; all these are characteristics they share with Malamutes and
Siberian Huskies. Their strength and quickness can be quite surprising
to someone who has met a fluffy white Samoyed during a quiet period,
for their appearance is quite gentle and, as Daniel Pinkwater said of
Malamutes, they can "sleep like cinderblocks." Their intelligence, and
strong independent nature make them a challenge to train; where a
Golden Retriever, for instance, may work *for* his master, a Samoyed
works *with* his master or not at all. Holding the dog's respect is a
prerequisite to training. They learn quickly; the trick is teaching
the dog to behave reliably without hitting his boredom threshold. It
is these characteristics that have earned Samoyeds (and with the other
Northern breeds) the appelation "non-traditional obedience dogs."
Samoyeds do compete successfully in obedience trials, though, so it is
not a hopeless cause. Samoyeds are often not the best choice for the
first-time dog owner.

By nature, Samoyeds are friendly dogs. They were used as watchdogs by
their native owners in Siberia, though, and display relatively more
watchdog behavior than their Northern cousins the Malamute and
Siberian. They are completely unsuited to guarding duty, though.

Barking, Talking, and Howling

Samoyeds both bark and talk, though they generally do not howl. They
tend to be rather quiet, with big deep barks that can be quite
startling. Some Samoyeds are more frequent barkers, and these tend to
have more high-pitched piercing barks. The Samoyed may also "talk"
with a soft "aroo" or "woo-woo" sound similar to the Malamute.

CARE AND TRAINING

Feeding

When you collect your puppy, your breeder should tell you what the
puppy's diet has been to date, as well as recommendation as to the
best food and feeding frequency in the future, both for while the dog
is still a puppy as well as when the dog is an adult.  You should try
and follow the puppy's diet at the time you collect him from the
breeder as best you can, until the puppy is settled in to its new
environment.  Then you can gradually change the diet to suit your
preferences.  Remember that sudden changes in diet can severely
disrupt the puppy's digestive system and cause gastric distress.

As for the type and "brand" of dog food, basically any reputable dog
food manufacturer provides a dog food that is sufficient to keep a dog
healthy.  However, the premium brands of dog food have the advantage
that one can feed the dog less and still get very good nourishment.
In addition, stool size and amount is generally less with the premium
dog foods.  Keep in mind that feeding dogs is partly art, and partly
science.  The dog food manufactures have done the science part.  The
rest is up to you.  Some people feed their dogs a mix of canned and
dry food twice a day.  Others feed only dry and allow free feeding,
and so on.  Be sure and pick a frequency of feeding, brand, and type
of food to suit your dogs needs.  For working Samoyeds, something
equivalent to a Science Diet Performance or Eukanuba is in order.  For
Samoyeds that go for walks and hikes, a Maintenance formula is usually
best.  Consult your breeder and veterinarian for advice.

One other thing worth mentioning here is how long to feed puppy food.
Some research indicates that feeding puppy food for too long can
increase the incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs that are susceptible
to it.  Some breeders start feeding adult food very soon.

Samoyeds are often extremely fond of fish, which many people find
surprising. Fish can often be used as a diet supplement or special
treat for Sammys.

Housing

Samoyeds are happiest when they can share in family activities.  The
best arrangement is one in which the dog can come in and out of the
house of its own free-will, through a dog door.  If a dog door is not
possible, then training the dog to go to an outside door to be let out
is also very easy to do.  Outside, the dog should have a large, fenced
yard.  The fence should be strong and at least 4 feet tall.  Samoyeds
are not as prone to digging or escape as Malamutes, but they rate
pretty high by normal standards. They are prone to dig shallow
"wallows" in hot weather; they will typically just turn over a layer
of dirt to get to the cooler earth just below the surface.

Because the Samoyed is an arctic dog, it can remain outside in very
cold weather.  However, it should be provided with shelter from the
elements in the form of a good sturdy house.  A good insulated house
with nice straw bedding is perfect for Samoyeds that spend most of
their time outside.  Heating the dog house is usually not necessary.
It should be stressed that leaving a Samoyed outside all the time is
definitely inferior accomodations to being inside with the family.

Training

Training Samoyeds, as any Northern breed, can be a challenge.  With
this breed, it is important to start young.  Establish rules of the
house early, and make sure that the puppy knows that you are in
charge.  For example, if you do not want the dog on the bed as an
adult, do not allow it as a puppy.  The rule of thumb is that if you
train a dog to do something, expect him to do it.  Therefore, if the
puppy learns that certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to
train them not to do them as adults.  Things that are cute as puppies
may not be all that cute when the dog weighs 60 lbs or more.

Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as
the head of the pack, or alpha, very early.  Once you do this, the dog
will respect you and training will be much easier.  It is best to
enroll in a puppy training class (or puppy kindergarten training as
they are commonly known) soon after your dog is home and has all of
its vaccinations.  This training is good for the dog and for you as
the owner, as it will help you understand your new puppy and establish
you as alpha very early in the puppy's life, which is extremely
important with this breed.  Once you have completed the puppy class,
and have been working with the dog for a few months, a basic obedience
class is in order.

Obedience training this breed can be very interesting and extremely
challenging.  Many owners will complain that their dogs act perfectly
in class, but will not obey at home.  This breed is intelligent enough
to differentiate situations very well, and will apply different rules
of behavior for different situations.  You must stay on top of the dog
and maintain control, which is easier to do while the dog is of
manageable size than with a stubborn adult that has been allowed to
get away with undesirable behaviors for a long time.

It is very important to remember that Samoyeds are a *working breed*.
They need something to do.  Putting them in the backyard and tossing
them a bone and expecting them to be happy us a very bad idea.  They
need a lot of exercise and interaction to be happy.  The exercise can
come in the form of mushing, which is of course best, or can easily be
in the form of draft work, frequent walks, hikes, and playing.  The
dog makes a wonderful hiking companion, and with a dog pack, can carry
food and water. Skijouring, where a dog pulls a cross-country skier,
is an excellent winter activity for those who don't have the
inclination (or the number of dogs) to take up mushing.

SPECIAL MEDICAL PROBLEMS

The Samoyed, as a breed, is relatively free of particular
breed-related medical problems.

Snow Nose or Bad Pigmentation?

Snow Nose is described as a pink/reddish marking on the black nose.
It is commonly experienced amongst the northern breeds.  Snow Nose can
disappear over the warmer months and reappear over the winter months.
There is nothing wrong with snow nose.

Pink or mottled noses are not faults in the Samoyed, and pink noses
appear to be more "natural" based on research into the early history
of the breed. One of the few "changes" we've made in the breed in the
last hundred years is selecting for black noses.

Bloat

Bloat is a condition that affects all large, deep chested breeds.  It
is a potentially life-threatening condition which usually affects dogs
in the prime of life.  Basically, the dog's stomach will swell from
gas, fluid, or both (this is acute gastric dilation).  Once distended,
the stomach may twist abruptly on its long axis.  If it does twist,
but the twist is less than 180 degrees, it is called a torsion.  If
greater than 180 degrees, it is called a volvulus.  Therefore, the
term bloat can refer to any of these three conditions (acute gastric
distortion, torsion, or volvulus).  Acute gastric dilation is not
serious, and may clear up itself in a few minutes. Torsion or volvulus
are life threatening and immediate veterinary attention is required.
The chance for recurrence is around fifteen percent.  The cause of
bloat is unknown.

Hip Dysplasia

This is a genetic disorder that affects Samoyeds.  Simply put, hip
dysplasia is a deformation in the hip joint.  That is, the head of the
femur does not sit solidly in the acetabulum.  The joint lacks
tightness, and the condition results in a painful and often
debilitating life for the dog. Hip dysplasia is considered to be a
moderately inheritable condition.  Breeders will usually have breeding
pairs OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) certified prior to
breeding.  OFA certification can be given only after a dog is over 24
months old.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

How do Samoyeds handle the summer heat?
Like any dog, to cope with summer heat the Samoyed needs a constant
supply of water to drink and shade from the sun.  If the dog is
allowed inside then it will find its own cool spot (probably on the
kitchen or bathroom floor if it is tiled or linoleum floored).
Outdoors, the dog will probably dig a shallow "wallow" by turning over
a layer of soil to get to the cooler earth just beneath the surface.
Some dogs like having ice added to their water to help keep it cool.
Some also enjoy a children's wading pool filled with water in the
summer time.  The Samoyed sheds a lot of coat before summer, as soon
as the whether starts to warm up, which also allows them to keep cool.
Heavy exercise should be avoided in excessive heat.  Curtail exercise
times to be early morning or just after sunset.  Once the dog is
acclimated to his environment, he is usually fine.  NEVER clip a
Samoyed for the summer.  The outer coat is actually reflective and
shades the dog's skin.  Exposed skin is very prone to sunburn, which
can lead to skin cancer.  Samoyeds are remarkably adaptable animals.
However, one should never try and push a dog beyond his capability to
cope with the heat.  To do so can be disastrous.  One must keep in
mind the type of climate the dog is acclimated for and not look for
signs of heat stress.  Do not ever lock any dog in a car in direct
sunlight, or in the shade for a great deal of time, even with the
windows down a little for ventilation the heat generated by the dog is
still enough to cause heat stress in summer.

What are they like with children?
Due to their gentle temperament the Samoyed is generally a very good
family dog.  They seem to enjoy the company of children, though common
sense must be used when mixing any dog with young children.  They are
powerful dogs; children should not be left in total control of the
dog.  Samoyeds are generally patient by nature and will tolerate young
children fawning over them, but this should be strictly supervised for
the sake of the dog as well as the child.  With these caveats in mind,
since Samoyeds love attention, well behaved children get along
wonderfully with well mannered and socialized Samoyeds.

What are they like inside a house?
Samoyeds, aside from the occasional invasion of masses of fur when
they are shedding coat, are excellent house dogs.  They are extremely
clean dogs and surprisingly quiet.  They are very sure-footed and in
no way clumsy around furniture.  They will often pick out a favorite
sleeping spot and stay there for hours.  Favorite spots seem to be
tiled and linoleum floors in warm weather, soft pillows or beds at
other times.  The dog may seek out drafty areas and possibly lie in
front of doors with cold drafts during the winter.

How much do they eat?
It depends on the type of food. An average Samoyed will eat about 2 or
3 cups of a "premium" dog food (like Science Diet or Eukanuba) per
day.  The actual amount of food will vary depending on the metabolism
and activity level of the dog, and the type of food that is given.  A
working adult will eat approximately 3 cups of high density food per
day.  Other dogs will generally eat less.  Puppies require smaller,
more frequent meals.

How much exercise do they need, and what kind?
You should not strenuously exercise a puppy under 6 months of age.
Their muscular-skeleto system is not developed enough yet.  Their play
is enough to keep them healthy.  You should play with your puppy and
work on some of the basic obedience commands with him, in a playful
way.  Once the dog is 6 months old, a kindergarten puppy training class
or a basic obedience class is a very good idea.  It will start you both
out on the right foot.  You can then more easily start taking the dog
for walks in your area on a leash.  By the time the dog is full grown,
at around 12 months, he will be ready for much longer walks, an hour
per day or more.  The obedience training will make the walks much more
enjoyable.  Hiking, with a dog back-pack is great fun.  One can also
bike with a dog, with a nifty device known as a "Springer."  Finally,
sledding is an excellent form of exercise, and is what the dog was bred
for.  Skijouring is an alternative winter sport. The sled dog part of
the FAQ for rec.pets.dogs covers these things in more detail.

Do they pull sleds very fast?
The Samoyed, again, is the "happy medium" dog. They are not as fast as
Siberians, but they are faster than Malamutes.  They excel at
endurance, though, and were the preferred dogs of a number of early
polar (North and South) explorers.

How strong are they?
Again, the medium. Stronger than Siberians, but not as strong as
Malamutes.  A Samoyed won the 50-76 pound class at a recent [as this
was written] weight pull by pulling 2,130 pounds (on a wheeled cart)
16 feet in 10.3 seconds.

Do they shed a lot?
Samoyeds blow their undercoats twice per year.  They do not typically
shed year round like many dog breeds.  When they do blow their coat,
they lose lots of hair (several grocery sacks full per week).

Do they like to fight other dogs?
No.  Samoyeds are very pack oriented dogs.  As such, they communicate
with other dogs in a variety of ways.  An ill mannered, aggressive dog
is not a good team dog and therefore not a good sled dog.  However,
poorly socialized and trained Samoyeds can be aggressive towards other
dogs.  For this reason, it is very important for a Samoyed owner to
train the dog carefully and make sure to properly socialize it with
other dogs.

I've heard Samoyeds are dumb.  Is this true?
No!  Samoyeds are extremely intelligent working dogs.  People often
mistake the fact that they can be difficult to train as a sign of
stupidity.  Samoyeds are very clever and easily bored.  The key to
training them is to keep them interested and to challenge their
intelligence.  A Samoyed probably knows what you want him to do, he
just may not want to do it!

Just how cold can a Samoyed live in?
Samoyeds worked on Antarctic expeditions, where temperatures reguarly
reached -50 degrees (F) and may have touched -70. Dogs raised in more
temperate zones will not develop the quality of coat necessary for
those temperatures.


REFERENCES

1. Books

Ward, Robert H. and Dolly. _The New Complete Samoyed_, 1985, Howell
Book House. ISBN 0-87605-298-7.

2. Periodicals

3. Breed Rescue Organizations

There is no national breed rescue organiztion for Samoyeds, but many
local breed clubs engage in rescue work.

4. Breed Clubs

Samoyed Club of America
PO Box 33
Lincoln, VA  22078

5. Breeders

In the United States:

Contact the Samoyed Club of America for
breeder recommendations in your area.