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Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!pad-thai.aktis.com!pad-thai.aktis.com!not-for-mail
From: tittle@netcom.com (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: rec.pets.dogs: Getting A Dog FAQ
Supersedes: <dogs-faq/getting-a-dog_753253215@GZA.COM>
Followup-To: poster
Date: 14 Dec 1993 00:01:03 -0500
Organization: Disorganized in Orange County, CA
Lines: 1592
Sender: faqserv@security.ov.com
Approved: news-answers-request@mit.edu
Expires: 27 Jan 1994 05:00:16 GMT
Message-ID: <dogs-faq/getting-a-dog_755845216@GZA.COM>
References: <dogs-faq/introduction_755845216@GZA.COM>
Reply-To: tittle@netcom.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: pad-thai.aktis.com
Summary: Tips on how to select the dog you want, and tips on basic
things like veterinary care, collars/leashes & other equipment.
X-Last-Updated: 1993/12/12
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.pets.dogs:50641 rec.answers:3340 news.answers:15767
Archive-name: dogs-faq/getting-a-dog
Last-modified: 12 Dec 1993
This is one of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists for
rec.pets.dogs. It is posted on a monthly basis: updates, additions,
and corrections (including attributions) are always welcome: send
email to one of the addresses at the end of this article.
The multiple parts are all archived at rtfm.mit.edu in the directory
/pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq. The files are:
introduction, getting-a-dog, new-puppy, new-dog, health-care,
breeding, medical-info, training, behavior, working, service,
AKC-titles, misc/part1, misc/part2, rescue/part1, rescue/part2,
publications and resources.
To obtain the files, first try ftp to rtfm.edu and look under
that directory. If ftp does not work from your site, then try
the mail server: send email to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/getting-a-dog
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-puppy
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-dog
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeding
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/behavior
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/service
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc/part1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc/part2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/publications
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/resources
in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty). If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1992, 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore. It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed. It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission. This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.
Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@netcom.com USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
GETTING A DOG.
Prologue.
A. What Kind of Dog?
B. What are My Responsibilities?
C. Where Do I Get One?
D. Where Do I NOT Get One?
E. Veterinarians.
F. Introducing Previous Pets.
G. Collars, Leashes, etc.
H. Pet ID.
I. Chew Toys.
J. Crating.
K. Housing.
Prologue.
This article is intended to provide anyone contemplating a new dog,
whether a puppy or an adult, with useful information. There are
appropriate FAQ articles with further information if you get a puppy
(new-puppy) or an adult (new-dog); see the files described above.
The very *best* of the recommended books are the Monks of New Skete books.
Excellent general information books are:
In the US, look at _1993 DOGS USA Annual_ for about USD $5.95.
Publishers are the same folks who put out Dog Fancy. Includes a list
of breeders, description of breeds, a directory of trainers and much
more.
In Canada, the corresponding booklet is _Dogs Annual in Canada_. This
includes information on breeders and descriptions for every breed, how
to choose a breeder, directory of trainers, basic training and health
care information, and more. It is an annual that becomes available
about the first week of December, and retails for about CND $6.
A. What Kind of Dog?
1. Factors to consider
There is an enormous variety of dogs in shape, size, personality, and
abilities. Different breeds will have certain characteristics for
which they were bred. Ask breeders at dog shows and look them up in
breed books for further information. You must consider several things
before deciding on a dog:
* How much time can you spend with it? Dogs are social creatures.
They will not be happy left out in the back yard alone. You must
be committed to spending several hours a day with it.
* What space can you provide it? If you live in a small apartment,
you must take this into consideration: larger breeds and active
breeds will not do well unless you expend a good deal of effort in
meeting their needs. Larger dogs may also be more destructive in
smaller spaces, even unintentionally with wagging tails. Dogs can
be pretty adaptable so long as *you* help them out. Large dogs
can do well in smaller areas if you make sure that their needs
are met.
* How much money can you set aside for it? Even if you get a dog
from the shelter or otherwise inexpensively, you will have to buy
food, pay for veterinary checkups, vaccinations and routine
medical care, and purchase other equipement over the lifetime of
the dog. Not to mention replacing anything the dog may damage or
destroy. Do you have the financial resources for this?
* How much exercise can you give it? If your time is limited, you
should look for smaller or less active dogs that can obtain enough
exercise in your home or from short walks.
* How much training can you do? Regardless of the dog you get,
training will make your dog much more compatible with you and what
you want to do. A trained dog can go to more places with you
without disruption, and can be more easily a part of your life.
* How much grooming can you do? How much hair are you prepared to
have in your home? You should give serious consideration to these
factors: some dogs shed little and require no grooming (clipping,
stripping, etc); others shed little but require more grooming;
others shed but do not require grooming; and still others both
shed and require grooming. Do note that just about all dogs will
require some nail clipping regardless of conditions.
* Which sex do you want, male or female? There are pros and cons to
either sex, all of which are generalities and may or may not apply
to a specific dog. By all means, if you have a preference, get
the sex you want. If you are not sure, it really doesn't matter
-- look for the dog you hit it off with.
* What characteristics do you want in a dog? Different breeds have
been bred with specific purposes in mind. Dogs bred for scent,
for racing, for retrieving, etc, will exhibit these traits.
Consider which characteristics you would like and which will annoy
you. Reading up on dogs in breed books (some are listed below)
and talking to breeders will give you some idea of these kinds of
characteristics. This also may be a reason to choose a purebred:
characteristics in purebreds appear more reliably because of their
consistent breeding. Do recognize, however, that dogs show
individual personalities, and variety exists within each breed.
Breeds are only a general indicator of what to expect.
2. Purebred or mixed-breed dogs
If you are interested in a purebred dog, you should pick up a book on
dog breeds (most libraries will have a good selection) and do some
research, with the above questions in mind. There are some
breed-specific FAQ's listed in the Introduction. Finally, you should
SERIOUSLY consider attending a dog show where not only can you
potentially contact breeders, but you can see ADULT specimens of the
breed you are considering. It's very important to remember that cute
little puppies remain cute little puppies only for a matter of weeks.
There is a long period of ungainly and rebellious adolescence finally
followed by mellow adulthood.
If the dog's breed is not important to you, you should still consider
the above list when choosing the dog. You do face a few more
unknowns since a mixed-breed puppy (e.g., a "mutt") may or may not
clearly exhibit what its adult characteristics will be.
Many people have strong feelings about purebred dogs, especially the
characteristics of the breed. Other people feel that the "stereotypes"
are overrated. Jon Pastor made some nice comments about the usefulness
and caveats of typical breed behaviors:
Are behaviors commonly ascribed to specific breeds based in fact or
are they just stereotypes?
They are really a bit of both: they are informal statistical
descriptions (i.e., stereotypes), and to the extent that they reflect
reality they're also facts. "Stereotypes" -- or, more simply, "types"
-- can be, but are not necessarily, evil: it depends on how you use
them.
Typical means "characteristic of the type," and is a statistical
abstraction; it does not have any normative implications -- i.e.,
there is no claim that all (or even most) examples of the type in
question have the characteristics that are stated to be typical. One
of the ways in which people make sense of the world is by comparing
entities they encounter with the types they've stored in their
memories, in order to identify them; it's a remarkably effective way
of compiling knowledge about an infinitely complex environment so that
it can be accessed quickly enough to (in the extreme) save one's life.
Thus "typical" is a largely ad-hoc, somewhat personal label, until it
is agreed-upon by some number of people who share the same notion of
what common characteristics identify the "typical" object of a
particular kind. If we could eliminate the biases that have been
identified in such behavior (e.g., if the last 20 dogs you've seen
have been Borzois, you will most likely over-estimate the true number
of Borzois in the dog population), we would find that "typical"
approximated some statistical tendency in the population we're
addressing, typically the mean (average) or mode (most common).
If you pick some characteristic and look in a particular population to
see how many individuals have different levels of that characteristic,
you'll find that when you graph the results they look like this (more
or less):
no.
| |
| *
| * | *
| * | *
| * | *
| * | *
| * | *
| * | *
| * | *
| * | *
| * | *
--+---------------------------+------------------------------------------------
score
There will be some value that occurs most frequently (the mode); in
the case of a perfectly symmetric curve like the one above, this value
will also be the average (mean). Symmetric curves like this occur
surprisingly frequently, so I'll continue to use it as an example.
For example, let's say that you want to plot the aggressiveness of
various breeds. First, you have to come up with a way of ranking dogs
on aggressiveness [an exercise left to the reader ;-)], and then for
each breed you score a large number of dogs on aggressiveness and plot
the results:
no. with
score |
| * |
| * | * o
| * | * o | o
| * | * o | o
| * | * o | o
| * | * o | o
| * | o* | o
| * | o * | o
| * |o *| o
| * o | | * o
--+---------------------------+-------------------+----------------------------
"aggressiveness" score
Here, breed 1 is represented by '*' and breed 2 is represented by 'o'. Notice
a couple of things:
1. the centers of the two curves are clearly separated, from
which you'd conclude that the breeds differ to some degree
in aggressiveness
2. there is some overlap, so that the most aggressive breed 1
dogs are substantially more agressive than the average
breed 2 dog, and the least aggressive breed 2 dogs are
substantially less aggressive than the average breed 1 dog.
The significance you attribute to the results depends on the shape and
position of the curves, but in most cases there will be substantial
variation within groups and at least some overlap between groups.
Now, by doing this in N dimensions you can play the same game on as
many characteristics as you wish, and make statistically meaningful
statements about tendencies of one particular breed or typical
differences between breeds.
By doing so, you are *NOT* saying that
1. all dogs of a particular breed have all -- or, in fact,
*any* --of the "typical" levels of each characteristic
2. there is necessarily any real dog that has all of the "typical"
levels of each characteristic
3. it is impossible for a dog of breed 2 to have some -- or, in
fact, *all* -- of the typical characteristics of breed 1
This is not a True/False situation, it's an infinitely-graded
situation. If you get a dog of that particular breed, the modal
(typical) value is simply the one you'd be most *likely* to get.
A big caveat: breed traits are not computed scientifically, and are
thus not quite subject to the laws of Statistics. However, they do
reflect the cumulative wisdom of hundreds (thousands?) of years of
human observation and active breeding of dogs.
The bottom line is that if you get an Newfoundland, it is highly
likely that it will be a good lifesaving dog; it is possible,
although less likely, that it will be a *great* lifesaving dog; and
it is also possible, although also less likely, that it will show
no aptitude for lifesaving. Similar statements hold for "typical"
traits of sight hounds, Rotts, Poodles, GSDs, Goldens, Irish Setters,
and any other breed you can think of.
If you use this "stereotype" information to inform your choice of a
dog, and make some effort to determine how "typical" a given dog is
likely to be of its breed (by looking at parents and siblings, by
observing the dog, by asking the owner, etc., etc.), it's innocuous
and can be quite useful. If you use it blindly to make blanket
judgements of breeds, use of stereotypes can be foolish. In the
extreme, if you don't understand the meaning of the characteristics,
or have mis-identified or mis-measured them, use of stereotypes can be
positively evil, such as when "all Pitbulls" are identified as
dangerous and banned.
The only conclusion that this discussion licenses with respect to the
purebred-vs.-mixed-breed question is that prediction is easier with a
purebred because the number of purebreds is (relatively) small and
(relatively) fixed, while the number of possible mixes is essentially
infinite; as a result, there has been more observation of individual
"pure" breeds, and there is consequently more data to support
generalizations about breed characteristics. This is not, by any
means, to say that purebreds are necessarily better or worse; they're
just more predictable.
So if you want a dog with a particular set of characteristics, you
will be more likely to get such a dog if you find a breed that
typically has those characteristics and choose a dog of that breed
*intelligently* than if you choose a dog of mixed breeds (unless, of
course, you're talking about an older dog whose behavioral
characteristics are already obvious and therefore observable). This is
a statement about probability, not about quality, and anyone who
attempts to apply an absolute value-scheme to it is making unwarranted
and unjustifiable extrapolations.
Statistics is a powerful weapon. As with any other such weapon, use it
ignorantly or indiscriminately at your peril...
3. Books
Listed here some good references on dog breeds; others appear in the
References section. In addition, there are many that are specific to
one breed. Space prohibits listing any of these type of dog books
here, but you should look up breed specific books on the breeds you
are especially interested in for even more detailed information. The
breed specific FAQ's mentioned in the introduction will contain
recommended pointers.
De Prisco, Andrew and James B. Johnson. _The Mini-Atlas of Dog
Breeds_. TFH Publications, One TFH Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753
(1990). ISBN:0-86622-091-7 (hardcover).
This book lists and describes over 500 breeds from around the world.
Abundantly illustrated with color drawings and photos. Includes a
short forward on what criteria you should consider in choosing a
breed, and a short description of the categories it chose to group
dogs in (slightly different from, eg. AKC groupings).
Mandeville, John J., and Ab Sidewater, eds. _The Complete Dog Book:
official publication of the American Kennel Club_. Eighteenth
edition. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company, New York.
1992.
This is the reference for the AKC breed standards, each of which
covers several pages and includes a black and white photograph and
text on the breed's history, characteristics, and nature. Newly
admitted breeds, such as the Shar-pei, have been added to this
edition.
Sylvester, Patricia, ed. _The Reader's Digest Illustrated Book of Dogs_.
Revised edition. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.,
Pleasantville, NY. 1989. ISBN 0-89577-340-6. 384 pages.
Besides the excellent text and illustrations in the album, which
cover 2 pages for each breed (175 total), the informative sections
are also well-written and illustrated and include many color
photographs as well.
Tortora, Daniel F. _The Right Dog For You_. Fireside, Simon &
Schuster Trade Books. 1983. ISBN 0-671-47247-X.
Offers a complex decision procedure, with lots of questionnaires to
alert you to the potential significance of various features of breed
behavior and physical characteristics. One of the few that lists
potential problems of each breed rather than giving a glowingly
positive one for each.
Wilcox, Bonnie and Chriss Walkowicz. _Atlas of Dog Breeds_. TFH
Publications.
Over 900 pages long in large format. The authors are top notch
writers and did extensive research to compile this comprehensive
resource of the world's dog breeds. The book is profusely
illustrated with excellent quality photographs and a 3-5 page
article. This book makes a good effort to show every color and
every coat type of each breed in the various photos. Expensive.
Project BREED Directory. Network for Ani-Males and Females,
18707 Curry Powder Lane, Germantown, MD 20874, 301-428-3675.
There is a section on each breed (over 100 listed) listing specific
breed rescue organizations and individuals throughout the US. It
also describes each breed's appearance, origins, traits, and the
most common hereditary health problems for that breed. No pictures.
Check or money order ($15.95 plus $1.50 s/h) for a copy.
B. What are My Responsibilities?
There are responsibilities that go along with being a good dog owner.
A dog will live from 10 to 20 years, depending on its breed, size and
general health. This is a long term commitment, and you must be ready
to provide the dog with a home for that duration. You must make
provisions for it when you go on vacation. It needs attention, love,
and respect from you: feeding and watering it are not enough.
Consider it part of your family: this is no joke as that is exactly
what the dog thinks YOU are: its pack, its family.
* You are responsible for its health. An essential part of owning a
dog is making sure that it gets good medical care. Check the vets
in your area and pick out one before you even get your dog. Take
your dog in to the vet immediately after acquiring it and take it
in regularly thereafter. You will have expenses for yearly shots
and, in many areas, heart-worm preventive. Puppies and dogs
routinely die without adequate veterinary care.
* If you get your dog for protection, you are obligated to make sure
that it is safe, reliable, and trustworthy around people. Never
chain it up in the back yard, or encourage it to snarl and bite
other people. Never try to make a dog "vicious." Such
irresponsible treatment results in tragic stories of children and
adults being mauled or even killed, the dog being put down, and
various dog bans being enacted. A dog can protect you just fine
by barking at suspicious noises and allowing you to investigate.
It does not have to be vicious. A good protection dog is always
well trained, properly socialized, and has a relationship with its
owner that encourages it to be protective. Higher levels of
protection (such as attack dogs) require considerable training and
experienced handling and are most definitely not for everyone.
* You are responsible for your dog's reproduction. You must either
get it neutered, or make provisions for keeping your bitch away
from dogs when in heat. If your male is intact, you must keep him
under control when he smells a bitch in heat. If you breed, you
are responsible for making sure that your dog or bitch is suitable
for breeding (i.e., good health, good temperament, good specimen
of the breed, and free of genetic defects), and making sure that
all resulting puppies are placed in good homes. The millions of
dogs that must be put down annually in the US are the result of
owner irresponsibility about their pet's reproduction.
* You are responsible for your pet's behavior. This means keeping
your dog under control. Do not let it roam; do not let it become
a nuisance to others in your neighborhood. Keep it on a leash
when walking so that it does not run up to other people or dogs
and bother them. Clean up after it or curb it (make it go in the
gutter) when it eliminates, *especially* in public areas. Many
parks, beaches, and lakes are closed to dogs because of
irresponsible owners in this regard.
* You are still responsible for the dog when you "get one for your
kid." Unless your child is old enough, at least 13 (and highly
variable at that), she or he will not have the sufficient maturity
to take responsibility for the dog. A dog can be a good way to
teach children about responsibility, but the dog is still *your*
main responsibility. Dogs acquired for this reason often wind up
in the shelters when the parents find out that they are the dog's
primary caretaker.
* You are responsible for becoming more knowledgeable about dogs.
Find some good books and read up. Enroll in puppy and dog classes
where you can learn much from the instructor; attend them even
before you get a dog or puppy for first hand knowledge of what you
can expect. Many dogs are in animal shelters with a note that
says "couldn't be housebroken" or "couldn't be trained."
* You are responsible for being prepared for the new dog. Never get
one as a "surprise gift." All members of your family must agree
on having a dog. Have food, water and food dishes, bedding,
collars and leashes, chew toys, and a veterinarian lined up before
you pick up your dog. Many "Christmas puppies" are found in the
shelters by New Year's Day.
Some books to try:
Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Weekend Dog_. Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
particularly destructive or unwanted behavior. Gives all kinds of
practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate
training, housetraining, and so forth.
Miller, Harry. _The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care_. Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8 (paperback).
This small book provides a surprising amount of useful information.
A little on the "lightweight" side, nevertheless, it gives a good
outline of what you should know about your puppy or dog. You can
use this to decide how much you do know and where you need to brush
up on what you don't. Besides sections on how to select the right
dog, it covers basic puppy needs (housetraining, feeding,
illnesses), basic training, basic pet care, and a complete list
of AKC breeds.
Monks of New Skete, The. _How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend_. Little,
Brown & Company. 1978. ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and trains German
Shepherd Dogs. On the basis of their considerable experience, they
offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more. Extensive
bibliography. The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to
communicate with it or to solve problem behavior. An excellent,
well written classic.
Taylor, David. _You and Your Dog_. Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
This useful book is an overall guide to the health and care of dogs.
It includes a basic listing of dog breeds (AKC). This is a good
general purpose book that gives you an idea of what all is involved
in owning and caring for a dog.
C. Where Do I Get One?
There are really only three places that you should get a dog from: an
animal shelter, a *reputable* breeder, or a rescue organization.
Typically, dogs from shelters or rescue organizations are neutered, or
you will be required to neuter them as condition of purchase.
1. Animal shelters
The animal shelter is a good place to pick up a dog and save it from
death in the bargain. Look for a clean, healthy dog, keeping in mind
any constraints you may have. Look for signs of friendliness and
liveliness. Does it approach you in a friendly manner? Talk with the
people caring for the animals for any information on a particular
animal they can give you.
The best thing to do is to go the animal shelter every weekend and
spend time with the dogs. Try to put their plight out of your mind
for the moment--it would be nice to save them all, but you can't.
Instead, you should get to know the dogs on an individual basis.
Read the tags on each cage and see whether the dog was a stray, or
whether its owner turned it in for some reason. There are some
beautiful adult dogs in the pound that have been given up reluctantly
by ill or elderly owners. Don't overlook these!
Ask to see the dog in the holding area most shelters have. You'll be
able to check for signs of hostility, see if the dog knows anything,
and in general how it reacts to you. Expect some fear and
nervousness! A few doggy treats may help calm it. If things seem to
be going well, ask if you can take it on a walk, even just around the
compound. If you are curious to know its reaction to cats, take it by
the cat compound.
Finally, don't be afraid to say "not this dog," and walk away. It is
hard, hard, hard to walk away from a sweet dog, but you are looking
for a companion for life, so you will have to be honest with yourself
about what you want. There are horror stories from people who made an
impulsive decision in the pound and lived to regret it.
2. Breeders
If you plan to show your dog, or desire a healthy pet-quality
purebred, find a reputable breeder. Don't use newspaper
advertisements. Attend dog shows instead and talk to the owners
there. Or look for breeder advertisements in magazines like Dog
Fancy, Dog World, or others devoted to specific breeds. Libraries
often have a local breeder's registry book; you can also check the
yellow pages for breed referral numbers. Try contacting the local
breed club for the breed you are interested in.
The AKC has implemented a new program for breeder referral. The
number is 1-900-407-PUPS. Tell them the breed you are interested in
and where you live and they will give you the number of a person in
your area who will help you locate a reputable breeder near you. The
idea is to connect potential dog owners with local breed clubs and in
turn responsible breeders.
Remember, though no breeder is *automatically* responsible just from
the source you were referred from. You must determine whether a
breeder is suitable for your needs.
A book to read first is:
Shook, Larry. _The Puppy Report_. Lyons and Burford, Pubs., New
York. 1992. ISBN: 1-55821-140-3.
Larry Shook is a newspaper reporter who, despite working with an
allegedly reputable breeder, ended up with a purebred dog with a
very serious temperament problem - a problem that the breeder had
compelling reason to know about in advance. The result is this
helpful, short book about how to avoid breeders who'll knowingly
sell dogs that are very likely to have serious physical or
psychological problems.
a) Selecting the breeder
After you compile a list of potential breeders to contact, screen them
through the phone first. Here's a list of questions to ask (in no
particular order).
* Can you see the dam and if possible the sire?
* Where are the pups being raised, in a family setting or in a kennel?
* What health problems occur in the breed?
* Have these problems been checked in the parents? As appropriate:
OFA certification, CERF certification, etc.
* Request a copy of the sire and dam's lineage/pedigree.
* Titles on sire and dam.
* Info on puppies the sire and dam (together or with other mates)
have previously produced? (That is, are either of the parents
"proven"?)
* Has the puppy been crated trained, paper trained, etc.
* What breed clubs do you belong to? Do you have references?
* How many puppies were in the litter?
* Any difficulties during delivery?
* How often is the bitch bred?
* What guarantees do you offer on your animals?
* What is in your sales contract?
* Do you offer a spay/neuter contract for pet quality puppies?
* Have they been to the vet yet? Wormed? Shots?
* Are the dogs bred for the ring, field, or for general pet
purposes?
* How many breedings have you done to date? How long have you been
breeding? Names and phone numbers of several customers.
* How many different breeds have you bred? How many breeds are you
breeding now?
* If for some reason I cannot keep the dog, will you take it back,
no matter how old it is?
* If I want a bitch puppy so I can breed it as an adult, what kind
of, if any, restrictions will you include in the sales contract?
* Do you have a litter available? If not, when are you planning
one? (If a litter isn't presently available, ask if/when they are
next planning to show their dogs in your area. If you can go,
this is a golden opportunity to observe the structure and
temperament of the dogs they breed.)
When you meet with breeders, look for people that seem more concerned
with the welfare of their dogs than the amount of money they're
making. Look for ones raising the puppies "underfoot" and around
people. If the breeder is using kennels, check for cleanliness, happy
dogs, no overcrowding, shelter from the elements, plenty of fresh
water. Check and see how many different breeds the breeder is
breeding -- good breeders limit themselves to one or two (usually
related) breeds because of the time, expense, and energy involved in
producing excellent specimens of a particular breed. Otherwise, the
breeder may be operating what is essentially a puppy mill (check this
against how often the dam is being bred & what condition she is in).
A reputable breeder should have some history of breeding animals.
They may be breeding for show or field work or just plain good pets.
They should be able to tell you about some of their previous puppies.
They should be able and willing to discuss the health and well being
of the parents of your puppy including: eye conditions, hip dysplasia,
etc. In general, be suspicious of puppies from anyone who has not had
the parents at minimum x-rayed for hip dysplasia and had the eyes
checked by a veterinarian, or for other problems associated with the
breed. Not all breeds have the same problems, but breeders should
know what they are and be able to tell you which ones they've tested
for. And if you've done your homework beforehand, you'll know if
they're checking the right things.
Get references of previous clients and call them up and ask them how
they liked their dog. Don't overlook this step, you can learn a lot
about what the puppies are like and how well they did this way. A
reputable breeder should have no problem supplying you with such
references.
You should be able to see one or both parents of your puppy; their
temperament will give you a good idea of your puppy's adult
temperament. Titles in hunting, obedience, or protection can indicate
good temperament. Being unable to see the sire is not uncommon, picky
breeders will often ship their bitch cross-country to a good prospect.
If both parents are owned by the breeder (and those are the only two),
chances are this breeder is a backyard breeder.
Check for some basic health problems: a litter that was larger than
the breed average may mean that the puppies are smaller and not as
healthy, a small litter might indicate trouble during pregnancy. A
litter of size one or two means that the puppies are getting little or
no socialization with littermates, regardless of health. The puppies
should look vigorous and be strongly sucking, beware of listless (though
sleeping is OK) puppies and indifferent suckling. Try to see the
puppies when they're likely to be active.
Puppies should be at minimum dewormed by eight weeks of age. The
first set of puppy shots is desireable as well. Beware of breeders
who have not had a vet see the puppies (or mother) at all.
Many responsible breeders only guarantee the general health of a pup
for a limited time (e.g. 48 hours). This is not a rip-off. The
breeder has no control over the pup once the new owner takes it.
Reputable breeders will stand by that guarantee *if* the new owner
takes the pup to a vet who finds something wrong (e.g. a communicable
disease) within that period but the breeder can hardly be held
responsible for a disease contracted after the pup is in its new home.
Thus, such an early trip to the vet is for the protection of all
concerned.
Guaranteeing against genetic defects is common: such a guarantee
generally means a refund or replacement in the case of a defect
occurring; it does NOT mean that the puppy will "never" develop a
genetic defect. Be wary of breeders that claim their puppies can
never develop some defect that does occur in the breed.
The breeder should also guarantee to take the puppy back if you are
unable to keep it rather than having it go to the pound. The breeder
should also be concerned about your living conditions and what you
plan to use the dog for before they allow their puppy to go live with
you. Many breeders will want to know what you plan to do about
reproduction. Many will require that a pet quality puppy be neutered,
and withhold registry papers until receipt of proof of neutering (thus
making any puppies from that dog unregisterable).
If guarantees or other contracts (such as spay/neuter) are involved,
get it all down in writing. A responsible breeder will not be
offended by such a step. If something goes wrong, you have no legal
recourse if there is nothing in writing, verbal contract laws in some
states to the contrary.
If you're planning on a puppy for show and possible breeding, look for
a breeder that is very picky about selling such puppies. If this is
your first such puppy, expect an offer of co-ownership if they think
you're serious. At the minimum, the breeder should be discussing how
they'll remain involved with the puppy. This is a valuable resource,
by the way, the breeder will be able to explain what the puppy's
pedigree means, what other dogs it should be bred to, how to show it,
and so on.
Good breeders often have a waiting list of potential puppy buyers and
often will not breed until they know they can place all the resulting
puppies. If you find a breeder you like, do not be surprised if you
are placed on a waiting list for a puppy. The wait will be worth it!
Approach getting a puppy as if you were adopting a child. Expect a
lot of questions and ASK a lot of questions! A responsible breeder is
also looking for a responsible owner.
b) Selecting the puppy
Many breeders let you see and play with the entire litter at once.
One puppy may come right up to you and investigate. Of course, it's
cute -- all puppies are. You may think this puppy has "chosen" you.
Instead, it's likely to be the most dominant puppy in the litter.
Dominant puppies will check new things out before the rest of the
litter does. Your "chosen" puppy may not be right for you if you're a
novice at dog ownership or obedience training.
A better way to select a pup from a litter is to do a little
temperament testing and pick the dog with the temperament that best
meets you and your family's needs. The Monks of New Skete's book,
"The Art of Raising a Puppy," discusses the Puppy Aptitude Test
developed by Joachim and Wendy Volhard. They indicate the degree of
social compatability and how readily a pup will accept human
leadership.
If the breeder picks a puppy out for you, that's also normal:
reputable ones will have evaluated their puppies and match one to you
based on what you've indicated you want.
3. Rescue organizations
Another excellent source for a purebred dog is from a rescue
organizations run by various clubs across the country. If it is a
breed rescue, dogs of that breed are rescued from shelters or private
homes as needed, fostered while a placement is found, and then placed.
The adoption fee usually is less than the cost of a purebred from
other sources.
For addresses of rescue services for various breeds, call the American
Kennel Club library, 212-696-8348, or check the breed-specific FAQ, if
one exists for your breed. You can also check the BREED book (listed
above); it contains over 1500 sources for rescue assistance for 72
breeds throughout the US. Breed clubs often run a rescue program; try
contacting the local breed club for the breed you're interested in.
There also exist all-breed and mixed-breed rescue groups; this is
another source besides the shelter to obtain a dog.
You should try to spend some time with each dog you consider adopting,
as recommended and described for shelter dogs. Talk to the people who
are fostering the prospective dog for a better idea of the particular
dog's temperament. Ask questions like you would with a breeder; expect
a good outfit to screen you as well. Expect them to ask for a donation
and require that the animal is neutered, if it isn't already.
D. Where Do I NOT Get One?
1. Backyard breeders
People who have unplanned litters or breed for profit advertise their
puppies in the paper. This is not a good source. If you must try
these, check the health of the puppies carefully. As with breeders,
look for people more concerned with the welfare of the puppies --
people out for a fast buck will not likely have seen to the health of
the puppies. If you are looking for a purebred, forget the backyard
breeders and find a reputable breeder instead. It will save you time
and money and heartache. If you don't care about having a purebred,
you will do better at the animal shelter.
It is not impossible that you will find a conscientious breeder
through the newspaper. Just check them carefully when you go and
visit them, like you would any other breeder.
2. Pet Stores
Don't buy pet store animals. These are often obtained from
disreputable sources such as "puppy mills" (where animals are bred
(and bred and bred) only for profit). By buying from the store, you
are supporting these mills and adding to the pet population problem.
In addition, you are obtaining an animal of dubious health and any
money you might save will likely go directly into vet costs as its
health deteriorates and you may even have to put it down. If it is
purebred and has papers, chances are very good that the papers have
been forged in some way and even that the puppy is not really
purebred. Even if the papers are legitimate, the pedigrees are often
extremely poor. Many behavioral problems appear in these puppies as
they are carelessly bred, separated too early from their mother and
littermates, improperly handled, unsocialized with either humans or
dogs, and forced to live in their own feces.
A graphic article in LIFE Magazine (Sept. 1992) illustrates the kinds
of problems with puppy mills.
Many pet stores have been instructing their employees to tell
prospective clients that all the animals in the store are from local
breeders. In many cases, this is simply not true. Other stores will
have pictures and commentaries on their walls to inform you how clean
and sanitary THEIR puppy mills are -- but "clean and sanitary" still
does not obviate the problems with socialization and bloodlines.
Don't be fooled! And you may not even want to patronize the stores
for pet supplies as this will indirectly support the mills, too.
E. Veterinarians.
Before you even bring your new dog home, take it to the vet you have
already selected. Annual shots and examinations are a must for
keeping your dog healthy. If you cannot afford veterinary care for a
dog, don't get one. Preventive and consistent care is less expensive
in the long run.
2. Choosing a vet
Choose a vet who you are comfortable with and who will answer your
questions. Check out the office: do animals seem just frightened or
are they also out of control? Is it bedlam, or reasonable for the
number of different animals there? Do you have local recommendations
from friends? Does the vet specialize in small animals as opposed to,
say, livestock? Try to get word-of-mouth recommendations.
Asking other pet owners isn't always effective because they may not
have had any unusual or challenging health problems with their pets,
and vets that can be okay for routine stuff often are less impressive
with unusal stuff.
Call vets in your area and ask the vet techs, not the vets themselves,
who they would recommend other than their own current employer.
Another good source is groomers, as they tend to hear a lot of stories
from their clients.
If you find the recommended vet is very expensive, he probably owns
the practice. Try one of the associates. They tend not to run up the
bills so much, and a good vet will usually hire good associates as
well.
Look for a vet who is willing to refer you elsewhere if they don't
know rather then saying something like "It must be an allergy",
etc.
Check to see if the vet is licensed by the AVMA (American Veterinary
Medical Association). They do extensive and picky inspections of the
facilities.
3. 24 hour emergency care
A good vet will either be associated with a 24 emergency care plan or
be able to give you the number of a good place in your area. Keep
this number on your refrigerator and check with your vet when you
visit that it's still up-to-date.
4. Fecal samples
Any time you bring your dog to the vet, try to bring a fresh fecal
sample. Put a small, fingernail-sized sample into a plastic bag, or
ask your vet for a supply of fecal samplers. The vet cannot always
get a fecal sample from the dog, and this saves you extra trips to
return the sample and then bring the dog in if the tests are positive.
Try an ordinary sandwich bag (e.g. a "Baggie" -- ziplock is convenient
but not necessary) and turn it inside out over your hand like a rubber
glove. Then simply pick up the stool with your covered hand, turn the
bag right-side out, enclosing the sample. Zip if ziplock otherwise
use a twist tie. This is perfectly sanitary (and you can use the same
procedure to clean up after your dog on walks).
F. Introducing Previous Pets.
You may need to introduce your dog to another pet that will share
living quarters (as opposed to simply meeting them while walking
along).
Introducing a puppy to an older dog is probably the easiest
combination. If the older dog is properly socialized with other dogs,
you will not have problems. If the older dog is not, you may have to
keep the dogs separated until you're more confident about their
getting along. (In any case, a puppy will often be restrained as per
housetraining efforts when you are not at home.)
If you are introducing a puppy to a cat, you will probably have some
trouble for a few months. Older cats, unless they've dealt well with
dogs before will probably hiss and spit at the puppy or avoid it for a
long time. As long as the cat has a place to retreat to and you teach
the puppy to leave the cat alone (granted, easier said than done), you
will work through problems eventually.
Puppies and kittens tend to get along just fine. Watch out for
possible accidental injuries if the puppy is (or will become) much
bigger than the cats.
If you are introducing an adult dog to an adult dog, it will depend on
their temperament and how well they get along with other dogs. You
might have some scuffles to establish a hierarchy -- keep an eye on it
but don't forbid it unless things get out of hand. If one dog reacts
very poorly to the other, you will have to separate them for a while
and work on introducing them slowly. You may have to keep them
separate when you are gone.
An adult dog with a cat can present problems if the dog thinks cats
make tasty snacks, or if the cat takes a dim view of dogs. You may
have to keep them separated, or expect a longer period of adjustement.
If the dog is fine with cats, introducing it to a kitten is easy.
In sum, it depends on the temperament and ages of the animals
involved. In most cases, you can simply introduce them, let them work
it out, and after a week to a month or so, things are fine. However,
sometimes this is a lengthy process that you will have to work
through, especially if it is cross-species. In general, this will
work:
Put the dog in its own room, where the original pet can smell it,
but not see it. After a day or so of this, remove the dog from the
room and let the original pet smell and explore the room thoroughly.
Put the dog back in. Depending on the reactions involved, let the
pets meet under supervision. If there is some hostility, separate
them while you are gone until you are certain that they get along.
It is best if you can arrange a "retreat" for each animal.
Meeting first in a neutral area such as someone else's house or in a
park, if possible, may help.
Arrange a retreat for a cat by blocking off entrance to a room with a
child's gate that the cat can jump over but the dog cannot.
Be sure that the original pet gets plenty of attention after the
arrival of the new pet. Resentment at loss of attention and change in
routine can exacerbate the problems with the two getting along.
Finally, remember that it can take several weeks to a year for the
animals to adjust. So your best resource is patience.
G. Collars, Leashes, etc.
You will need to be prepared with several things before you get your
dog. Among them include collars, leashes, food dishes, and so on.
1. Collars
A wide variety of collars exist. Leather collars are nice, strong and
sturdy, but they do pick up smells and if they get wet, may become
brittle or start to rot. Nylon stays much cleaner, but may fade,
especially with the brighter colors. Sometimes nylon rips
unexpectedly when encountering something sharp.
A partial listing:
* Flat buckle collars. These may come in either nylon, leather, or
sometimes cloth-covered nylon. These are the buckle type, with
holes along part of the collar for some adjustment.
* Flat quick-release collars. Like above, but with a quick release
snap rather than the buckle. Nylon only. These are very
convenient for easy removal of the collar. Some kinds are
adjustable as well, to a greater degree than the above-mentioned
collars, without the extra collar hanging at the end in smaller
sizes. This is very useful with a growing puppy.
* Rolled leather collars. These usually have a buckle. These avoid
the chafing or hair breakage that flat collars sometimes do to dogs.
* Braided nylon collars. These very thin collars are often used in
the show ring. Most people do not use these collars. They are
not very sturdy. Many of them tighten in the same way a choke
collar does. Unless you are showing your dog, don't bother with them.
* Halter-style collars. These are marketed under a wide variety of
names and are really a training tool, although they may be used in
place of a collar. There are several variations, but the
principle is that the collar goes around the nose and is anchored
on the neck. The leash is snapped on under the chin. The leash
action is thus on the nose, much like a halter on a horse. The
dog cannot pull when the restraint is on the nose. These should
NOT be confused with a muzzle -- the dog is not prevented from
opening its mouth. Halter-style collars are especially useful in
helping train a dog away from constantly pulling on the leash.
Owners with back problems will use these as "insurance."
* Choke chains. Sometimes called training collars or slip collars.
A wide variety, from large links to small links, usually metal.
In longer haired breeds, may pull hair out around neck. Generally
used for "corrections," hence the sliding action. Be sure to have
the collar on properly, check pictures for correct placement. The
longer and heavier the chain is, the less effective the correction
is (the collar should loosen the instant you release pressure).
You may not want to leave this type of collar on an unattended
dog, as it might catch on something and choke the dog. Don't use
these on a puppy. For a good fit, buy one that barely fits over
the dogs ears when you put it on and is the smallest/lightest
possible in that length. A very heavy chain will not give a good
correction. A "curb-link" type of chain is very good and
minimizes catching of hair. Don't leave choke chains on
unsupervised.
* Pinch or prong collars. These are a corrective tool. They are
not intended to be a "normal" collar, but are to be used while
training. They have a prong arrangement on the inside of the
collar that tightens around the neck in a correction. A properly
fitting collar rides high on the neck just under the ears. It
*cannot* be slid over the head, you have to take one link out and
fasten it closed around the dog's neck. Never leave on
unsupervised. These collars should never be used on a puppy.
* Harnesses. If your dog is small or delicate, using a harness
instead of a collar when walking will avoid neck injuries. Be
sure the harness fits comfortably and will not chafe the arm pits.
You will probably want to use the harness for walking and still
have a normal collar for the tags. If you have a big dog that
likes to pull, getting a harness will only improve pulling power.
2. Leashes
Again, there are many kinds of leashes, in different lengths. You
will probably want a short leash for walking in crowds, a longer leash
for just walking along, and an extra long leash (that could just be
rope) for some training exercises.
You can find a variety of snaps on leashes. The most common is a hook
with a knob that pulls down to open the hook (snap hooks). Another
kind is a hook where the lower part pushes in (spring hooks). The
latter are better as they don't accidentally release. Look for hooks
with swivels to avoid twisting.
* Flat nylon leashes. The most common. They come in a variety of
colors and lengths.
* Braided rope leashes. These look like the rope used in rock
climbing, with the same colorful patterns. These are sometimes
easier on the hand and are quite sturdy.
* Leather leashes. These range from the plain to the intricately
braided. Take care to keep them out of the water to prevent
brittleness. Inspect them for wear. Shorter ones are ideal for
training.
* Metal link leashes. Especially if your dog likes to chew on
leashes. Sometimes combined with leather, especially for the
handle. Not a good leash to use with a choke-chain collar.
* Flexi-leads. Developed in Germany, these are spring-loaded,
retractable leashes that have a minimum length of 2.5 feet and
varying maximum lengths. They come in a variety of sizes. The
handle is bulky because it contains the retracting assembly, but
there is a comfortable hand grip. Be careful -- it is easy to get
wrapped up in the flexi-lead and rope-burn yourself or at least
get all tangled. These leashes are ideal for letting the dog
explore around you while you walk along. They are not very good
to use when training your dog because of the amount of give in the
rope even when the length is locked in.
3. Food dishes
In general you want to get ceramic or metal food dishes. Plastic food
dishes acquire microscopic scratches in which bacteria flourishes.
You should wash the food dishes frequently, just as you do your own.
Always supply fresh water with each meal.
If your dog has long hound ears, you should get the cone-shaped high
dishes that help keep the ears out of the food and water. Otherwise,
any dish will do fine for your dog. There are lots of cute dog dishes
out there.
Some of the larger breeds should have their food dishes elevated to
reduce strain on the neck and back. You can try wooden boxes.
Another possibility is to obtain traffic cones and cut the tips off --
food dishes then fit snugly on top. Many dog catalogs sell devices
for elevating food.
4. Car restraints
You should have some way of restraining your dog in the car. This is
for your safety as well as your dog's safety. An unrestrained dog
that climbs everywhere may get into the driver's lap and cause havoc.
An unrestrained dog that likes to chew may destroy the interior of the
car. Even an unrestrained dog that lays quietly may be severely
injured if you get into an accident.
There are several types of restraints:
* Harnesses. There are a variety of different restraints that use
the harness and the seat belt to restrain the dog.
* Screens. You can purchase metal screens that fence off an area of
the car for your dog. These are usually used in trucks and
station wagon type of cars.
* Crates. You can get a crate to fit your dog and keep it in your
car. This is not feasible for everyone, especially the larger
your dog is and the smaller your vehicle is.
* Pickup leashes. There are various ways to restrain a dog in the
back of a pick up truck. These are generally not advisable, but
some people do use them. But if your dog must ride in the back of
a pickup, do use some type of leash. Crates, fastened down, are
even better.
* Leashes. You can even use a leash: clip it on your dog, and
either tie the other end to an arm-rest on the door, or close the
door on a loop of it in such a way that the dog's mobility is
quite restricted. Not the best long term solution, but it can
help in a pinch.
H. Pet ID.
There are several steps you can take to increase the chances of your
dog being returned to you if lost, or to decrease the chances of your
dog being stolen.
1. Pet tags
By far the most important piece of information on your pet's tag is
your telephone number, including the area code. Everything else is
just optional. Some people do not like to put their dog's name on the
collar, as that can make it easier for a thief to coax your dog along
with its name. The choice is up to you. Attach the tag to your dog's
collar securely. Do not use the "S" hooks -- many tags are lost that
way. Use the keyring type of attachment, or better yet, have the tag
riveted onto the collar.
Of course, one problem with tags is that they are easily removed
simply by removing the collar.
2. Tattooing
Get your dog tattooed. Tattoos cannot be removed or lost. This will
help identify your dog and get it returned to you (most animal
shelters will not destroy a tattooed dog). It helps deter theft and
ensures that your pet will not wind up in a laboratory somewhere.
Your vet can give you pointers to someone who can tattoo your pet. RC
Steele sells a do-it-yourself kit, worth considering if you have
multiple dogs.
Tattooing is an excellent way to protect your pets. In fact, there
are animal science laboratories and vet clinics around the country
that sponsor low-cost tattoo clinics and tattoo "fairs."
Get the tattoo put on the inside of your dog's thigh. This is much
harder to remove than one placed in your pet's ear. As long as the
dog is over 5 weeks of age, it can be tattooed. The younger the
better -- puppies are more easily controlled than adult dogs are.
You must get the tattoo number registered, or it isn't very useful in
locating you. If you use the National Dog Registry, use a number
that will not change. (Social security numbers are good.) There is a
one-time fee for registering the number, and you can then register
other pets with the same number.
Anesthesia is not *required* to do a tattoo, though it can help. You
might consider having your bitch spayed and tattooed at the same time,
for example.
You should note that tattooing (or micro-chipping) is a prerequisite
for registering a pure-bred dog in some countries, such as Canada.
Unfortunately, tattoos can fade over time. Also, especially in
double-coated or long-haired breeds, it may be hard to find the tattoo
when the hair grows back.
3. Microchip ID
An alternative, that is used in Canada, and increasingly in the US is
an injected microchip. The microchip contains a numbering system that
is accessed by many local animal shelters and vet hospitals in the San
Francisco Bay Area. Each microchip has a 10 digit alpha/numeric code
that is assigned to you (or your kennel) and your pets,
Some of the information that is
kept on file are extra emergency numbers to have contacted should your
pet be impounded or taken to an animal hospital due to injury or
illness. Your vet's name & number are also included along with any
important medical info about your animal. This is important for
animals that have life threatening medical conditions that need
constant treatment.
Not all shelters check for the chip, but increasing numbers are doing
so in the US. There are no documented cases of medical problems
related to the insertion of the chip just under the skin. Since
tattoos can fade over time, this is an alternative to consider. It
takes about 2 minutes to insert the chip and fill out the form. After
that, all you have to do is pay yearly dues. There are several different
companies in the US, and only one company in Canada [Is this true? What is
the contact number for this company???]
Summarized by an article from Mary Jacobs:
You generally want to be sure that the person doing it has medical
training for sterility and health reasons, and, because if the chip
is not placed between the shoulder blades in the right place, it will
migrate elsewhere in the body and will effectively disappear. Placed
correctly, there will be scar tissue forming around the chip,
anchoring it in place.
The chip itself was about the size and shape of a grain of rice,
perhaps a little bigger. The needle is *quite sizeable.* It is
hollow and on the end of a syringe that contains the chip, about
3mm wide. Once in, the chip is inserted with the plunger from
the syringe and it is done in about 20 seconds.
There are several companies vying for market share in this
business. The people around Chicago choose AVID because
it seems to be the one most used. As of now, the scanner
of one company cannot read chips from another company, so
you want to find out what is predominant in your area.
Try asking your vet.
Eventually, there will be a system where all chips can
be read no matter what one is inserted, but this is not
present now.
An article in the August 1993 issue of Dog Fancy goes into
this further. It's called "Beyond Dog Tags" and is on page 27.
This article lists all the microchip companies, tag registries,
and tattoo registries and discusses each of these methods of
protecting your dog.
Briefly, these are:
Microchips:
* AVID in California (714) 371-7505, nationwide (800) 336-AVID
* Destron in Colorado (303) 444-5306 (Uses Destron chip)
* IdentIchip in Pennsylvania (717) 275-3166 (Uses AVID chip)
(Provides programs for breeders, shelters, and vets.)
* InfoPet in Pennsylvania (612) 890-2080 (Uses Trovan chip)
also (800) 463-6738
Tag Registries:
* 911-Pets Lost Pet Service Chicago (312) 890-4911
* Petfinders New York (800) 666-LOST or (800) 666-5678
* Pet Find Inc. Oregon (800) AID-A-PET
Tattoo Registries:
* National Dog Registry New York (800) 637-3647 / NDR-DOGS
* Tatoo-A-Pet New York (718) 646-8200 / (800) TAT-TOOS
* U.S. Found Maryland (410) 557-7332
4. Thefts
Animal thefts do happen, this is a fear of pet owners everywhere.
First of all, if your dog is missing or stolen, you have a
responsibility to report it to the police. They may not always be
able to do anything about it, but if they get several reports, then
they can justify putting some time on it. Don't make the mistake of
thinking that you are bothering the police!
Call the shelters and the local vets and tell them of your loss, they
can be on the lookout for your dog. Most vets will take a description
of your dog and contact others in the area to keep an eye out for it.
Put up flyers in the immediate area. If your dog has been tattooed or
micro-chipped, it may show up shortly.
I. Chew Toys.
1. In summary
Nylabones are best for keeping teeth clean. Followed by either
Gumabones or Nylafloss. Virtually any chew toy has potential
problems, always keep an eye out for them.
2. Nylabones
Nylabones are most highly recommended. They cost about 3 times as
much as a rawhide but last for a very long time. Some dogs don't like
them and may need some encouragement; most will happily use them.
Some dogs chow down on them so enthusiastically that they get "slab"
fractures on their teeth. Nylabones should be replaced when the ends
show signs of wear.
3. Gumabones
Gumabones are similar to nylabones, but a bit softer and without as
much tooth cleaning ability. The manufacturer says that Gumabones are
more likable and serve as toys, but the Nylabone is necessary to
satisfy frustration chewing and chewing due to a need to chew. Some
dogs have trouble with flatulence when they ingest the small pieces of
gumabone that they chew off. Replace when the toy shows signs of
crumbling.
Note that there are many kinds of toys out there made of soft rubber
-- Gumabones is a particular brand name of a common sort of dog toy.
A similar toy is the "tuffy" -- usually a red cone-shaped toy made of
rubber that is harder than the Gumabone variety. It comes in a giant
black size, various smaller red sizes, and one that is white and blue
with a throw strap that floats. These are guaranteed against
destruction. This toy has a hollow center and hiding treats in it can
provide your dog with much enjoyment.
4. Nylafloss (also rope bone, booda bone)
Nylafloss is also well accepted and is the best tooth cleaner of all.
To many dogs, though, it is only interesting when you wave it in the
dog's face. (Nylafloss looks like very a thick, knotted rope.) Watch
out for dogs that like to chew them through and swallow pieces of
string.
5. Rawhide
Rawhide is not recommended by most people because the dogs tend to
swallow large pieces, which swell and sometimes block the intestines.
Also, if the shank gets slimy but the knot is still hard, the dog can
swallow the shank and choke on the knot. You can prevent this by
buying rawhide in other shapes, such as chips, or buying shredded and
compressed rawhide treats (although these do not last as long).
Lastly, and much more commonly, they cost a fortune if you have a
mid-to-large dog or a dog with powerful jaws. If you do use them,
look for US-or-locally manufactured ones; imported ones sometimes have
chemical residues.
6. Bones
There are specially treated bones that resist splintering, and you can
hide treats in the hollow center, giving your dog hours of enjoyment
trying to get them out. Untreated organic bones may splinter and
cause tooth wear or even gum and mouth injuries. Eating the pieces
often results in constipation. The best bones are the large ones that
resist splintering. Replace after cracks or splinters appear.
Small bones, especially chicken bones should NEVER be given to a dog.
They will crunch down and swallow the bones, which may lodge in the
throat and choke the dog, puncture the esophagus or stomach lining, or
block the intestines. If your dog is not immediately killed, it will
require expensive surgery to get the bone out of its body.
7. Cow hooves
Cow hooves are better than rawhide because they break down into
smaller pieces and are much cheaper and more durable. However, like
organic bones, they can cause gum and mouth injuries if they chip.
They smell somewhat and may cause tooth wear. Smoked hooves are
available that don't smell as much. Pick out the largest, most solid
hooves; replace when they are worn down to a small piece. Stop using
them if your dog splinters large chunks off them. Slab fractures are
also possible with cow hooves.
8. CHOOZ
Another item is CHOOZ, by the makers of Nylabones. This item looks
like a nylabone but is crunchy like a hard dog biscuit. It can also
be tossed into your oven or microwave to change its texture (makes it
lighter and more like a hard bread). CHOOZ has been involved in at
least one case of gastric blockage; you may not want to use it.
9. Pig's ears
Pig's ears look like good chew toys, but the truth is that dogs can
eat them in about 15 minutes or so. Dogs love them, but they are not
a chew toy and should be used as an occasional treat instead. Given
too often, they will cause loose stools.
J. Crating.
Crating is a controversial topic. There are those who believe that
crate training is indefensible and others who believe that it is a
panacea. The reality is likely somewhere in between.
1. What does the dog think?
First, you must understand what the crate represents to the dog. Dogs
are by nature den creatures -- and the crate, properly introduced, is
its den. It is a safe haven where it does not need to worry about
defending territory. It is its own private bedroom which it
absolutely will not soil if it can help it. Judicious use of the
crate can alleviate a number of problems, stop others from ever
developing, and aid substantially in housetraining.
Where is the crate? It should be around other people. Ideally, set
it up in the bedroom near you. Have the dog sleep in it at night.
Dogs are social and like to be around their people. Don't force it
into the crate. Feed your dog in the crate.
2. Prices and recommendations
A plastic airline approved (leakproof) crate will run from $10 to $75
depending on the size. These are the cheapest prices available. If
flying with a dog, most airlines will sell a crate at near-wholesale
prices. Vendors at dog shows often have good prices, especially for
slightly imperfect ones. Pet stores sell them at astronomical prices.
Mail order stores have competitive prices (but watch out for added
shipping costs), and they sell wire mesh cages. Wire mesh is
comparable in price to plastic airline crates, but the sizing is
different.
Wire cages are not as appealing to dogs that like the safe, enclosed
nature of a crate, but they have better ventilation for use in warm
places. You might, for example, have a plastic crate in your house
and a wire one for the car.
The crate should be large enough for the dog to lie down, stand up and
turn around in comfortably, but not large enough for the dog to
relieve itself at one end and sleep at the other. You may buy a crate
sized for an adult dog and block off part of it with a chew-proof
obstacle until the dog grows into it, or you may buy a succession of
crates as the dog grows.
If you use a crate in your car, consider something like the Crate
Mate, which is a heavy pouch that attaches permanently to a plastic
crate. It has a clear window for information about the dog, including
owners name/address/etc./vet info/medication info/etc. All this is in
red thirty point type. There's also room for 3-4 days supply of food,
medication, etc., leashes, collars, even a water bottle. They're in
bright colors so they can't be missed. Order from Custom Dog Supplies
(see Resources) or make your own.
3. Proper use of a crate
Crating a puppy or dog often seems unappealing to humans, but it is
not cruel to the dog. A dog's crate is similar to a child's playpen,
except it has a roof (dogs can jump out of a playpen) and is
chewproof. Also, a crate is not suitable for activity or exercise,
but rather for rest. Dogs are carnivores and do not need to be
constantly active during the daytime, like people (as gatherers) do.
If a crate is properly introduced to a dog (or puppy) the dog will
grow to think of the crate as its den and safe haven. Most dogs that
are crated will use the open crate as a resting place.
The major use of a crate is to prevent the dog from doing something
wrong and not getting corrected for it. It is useless to correct a
dog for something that it has already done; the dog must be "caught in
the act". If the dog is out of its crate while unsupervised, it may
do something wrong and not be corrected, or worse yet, corrected after
the fact. If the dog is not corrected, the dog may develop the
problem behavior as a habit (dogs are creatures of habit), or learn
that the it can get away with the behavior when not immediately
supervised. A dog that rarely gets away with anything will not learn
that if nobody is around it can get away with bad behaviors.
If the dog is corrected after the fact, it will not associate the
correction with the behavior, and will begin to think that corrections
are arbitrary, and that the owner is not to be trusted. This results
in a poorer relationship and a dog that does not associate
corrections, which are believed arbitrary, with bad behaviors even
when they are applied in time. This cannot be overemphasized: a dog's
lack of trust in its owner's corrections is one of the major sources
of problems between dogs and their owners.
A secondary advantage of a crate is that it minimizes damage done by a
dog (especially a young one) to the house, furniture, footwear etc.
This reduces costs and aggravation and makes it easier for the dog and
master to get along. It also protects the dog from harm by its
destruction: ingestion of splinters or toy parts, shock from chewing
through wires, etc.
A young dog should be placed in its crate whenever it cannot
be supervised.
If a dog is trained in puppyhood with a crate, it will not always
require crating. Puppies or untrained dogs require extensive crating.
After a year or so of crate training, many dogs will know what to do
and what not to, and will have good habits. At this time crating
might only be used when the dog needs to be out of the way, or when
traveling.
4. Crating do's and don'ts
* Do think of the crate as a good thing. In time, your dog will
too.
* Do let the dog out often enough so that it is never forced to soil
the crate.
* Do let the dog out if it whines because it needs to eliminate. If
you know it doesn't have to eliminate, correct it for whining or
barking.
* Do clean out the crate regularly, especially if you've put in a
floor and you have flea problems.
* Don't punish the dog if it soils the crate. It is miserable
enough and probably had to.
* Don't use the crate as a punishment.
* Don't leave the dog in the crate for a long time after letting it
eat and drink a lot. (because the dog will be uncomfortable and
may have to eliminate in the crate.)
* Don't leave the dog in the crate too much. Dogs sleep and rest a
lot, but not all the time. They need play time and exercise.
* Don't check to see if your dog is trustworthy in the house
(unsupervised, outside of the crate) by letting the dog out of the
crate for a long time. Start with very short periods and work
your way up to longer periods.
* Don't ever let the dog grow unaccustomed to the crate. An
occasional stint even for the best behaved dog will make traveling
and special situations that require crating easier.
* Don't put pillows or blankets in the crate without a good reason.
Most dogs like it cooler than their human companions and prefer to
stretch out on a hard, cool surface. Besides providing a place to
urinate on, some dogs will simply destroy them. A rubber mat or a
piece of peg-board cut to the right size might be a good
compromise (be sure to clean under any floor covering frequently).
K. Housing.
In general, your dog should sleep with you in your room at night.
However, you may still want to provide it with shelter, etc. if you
leave it outside while you are gone, for example.
1. Dog houses
A variety are available, and you can make your own. In general, look
for an elevated floor and sturdy construction. The dog house should
be placed where it will be cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Be sure it is not placed so as to assist escape over the fence. Many
dogs, particularly larger ones, appreciate a flat roof (make sure it
has a slight slope for drainage) that they can lie on when the weather
is hot. Do not be surprised if your dog does not use the dog house.
If you place bedding in the dog house, be sure to clean it frequently,
otherwise pests such as fleas will take up residence.
2. Kennels
You may want to construct a kennel or a dog run for your dog. Use
concrete or pea gravel for the floor to improve drainage. Make sure
the run includes a roofed over area for shelter from the elements.
Clean out the pen daily to prevent worms and disease. Secure the
water supply so that the dog can't tip it over (try a galvanized
bucket with a double-ended hook to fasten it to the wall. If you use
chain link fencing, be sure to put runners through it if you will keep
a bitch in season in it to prevent mismating. The height should be
sufficient to prevent jumping or climbing; some breeds are better at
this than others. A reference to consult is:
Migliorini, Mario. _Kennel Building and Management_. New York, N.Y. :
Howell Book House, 1987.
Contains a bibliography. Useful tips on how to construct a dog run.
3. Restraints
Even if you keep your dog inside, you will want to restrain it from
certain areas of the house. A common way to do this is to use a
child-barrier. Pet stores and mail-order companies stock barriers
sturdy enough for bigger dogs. Examples of restraint might include:
keeping puppies in the kitchen or in areas where there is linoleum,
keeping young dogs in a specific room when going through the teething
stage, keeping your dog downstairs or in the basement, etc.
A common restraint used in dog shows is the x-pen. This is a
eight-sectioned, foldable heavy guage wire fence. The ends are
clipped together to form an approximate 4'X4' square area; or several
x-pens may be clipped together for a larger area. Do not leave a dog
alone in an x-pen; another person should always supervise a dog in an
x-pen. The exception is that this can be suitable to restrain a small
puppy with, especially if the x-pen is propped so that it cannot fall
over.
A crate is another restraint, this has already been described above.
4. Bedding
You should give your dog its own bed. Try folded up towels for young
puppies. There are a variety of beds for the fully grown dog -- try
any of them. Be careful with cedar-filled beds. There are reports
that cedar reacts with urine to produce poisonous fumes. You should
not let your dog sleep on the bed with you, instead insist that it
sleep on the floor next to the bed.
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This article is Copyright (c) 1992, 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore. It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed. It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission. This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.
Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@netcom.com USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
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