Usenet 1994 January/usenetsourcesnewsgroupsinfomagicjanuary1994.iso/answers/fencing-faq

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From: [e-mail] (Morgan Burke)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.fencing,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: Fencing FAQ
Followup-To: rec.sport.fencing
Date: 2 Dec 1993 01:22:54 GMT
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Summary: Issues relevant to fencing, kendo, and other
         sword-based martial arts are discussed.
Keywords: fencing, FAQ
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.sport.fencing:3581 rec.answers:3196 news.answers:15347

Archive-name: fencing-faq
Last-modified: 1993/11/10
Version: 2.3


                           +-------------------+
                           |   F E N C I N G   |
                           +-------------------+

This is a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) with answers, compiled
for the UseNet newsgroup rec.sport.fencing.  It is intended to reduce
repetitive discussions on the Net by addressing commonly raised topics.
This document is maintained by Morgan Burke (Email: [e-mail]).
Contributions, corrections, and suggestions are welcome.

Most of the questions and answers pertain to FIE (Olympic) Fencing;
Japanese fencing (kendo, kenjustsu, iaido, etc.) is treated in a separate
FAQ list ("Japanese Sword Arts") that can be found in the newsgroups
rec.sport.fencing or rec.martial-arts.

*** Last Revised 1993-Nov-10; most Kendo material has been removed, as the
    subject is covered more completely in Neil Gendzwill's Japanese Sword
    Arts FAQ.  The Fencing FAQ is now devoted primarily to FIE/Olympic
    fencing.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following questions are addressed in this document:

General:
  1)  What sports and martial arts comprise fencing?
  2)  Which is the best weapon?
  3)  What are some good fencing movies?            *** new
  4)  Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics?    *** new

For Beginners:
  5)  Does it hurt?
  6)  What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with?
  7)  How long does it take to become good?
  8)  What qualities make a good fencer?
  9)  How much does it cost to get involved in fencing?

For Experts:
  10) What kind of cross-training will help my fencing?
  11) Everything you always wanted to know about right-of-way.  *** new
  12) Are flicks legitimate attacks?                *** revised

Reference:
  13) How do I find a good fencing club?
  14) What kind of equipment should I buy?
  15) Where can I order or buy equipment?            *** revised
  16) What organizations control fencing?
  17) Bibliography                        *** revised
  18) Glossary                             *** revised

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

1)  What sports and martial arts comprise fencing?

    The Olympic sport of fencing is comprised of three weapons:  foil,
    epee, and sabre.  The rules governing these three weapons are
    determined by the FIE (Federation Internationale d'Escrime).
    Briefly, the FIE weapons are described as follows:

    Foil:  Descended from court sword training weapons of the 17th-18th
    centuries.  The foil has a thin, flexible blade with a square
    cross-section and a small bell guard.  Touches are scored with
    the point on the torso of the opponent, including the groin and
    back.  Foil technique emphasizes strong defense and the killing
    attack to the body.

    Epee:  Similar to the dueling swords of the mid 19th century,
    epees have stiff blades with a triangular cross section,
    and large bell guards.  Touches are scored with the point,
    anywhere on the opponent's body.  Unlike foil and sabre, there
    no rules of right-of-way to decide which attacks have precedence,
    and double hits are possible.  Epee technique emphasises timing,
    point control, and a good counter-attack.

    Sabre:  Descended from cavalry swords of the late 19th century,
    sabres have a light, flat blade and a knuckle guard.  Touches
    can be scored with either the point or the edge of the blade,
    anywhere above the opponent's waist.  Sabre technique emphasises
    speed, feints, and running attacks.

    The most popular of eastern fencing techniques is kendo, the Japanese
    "Way of the Sword".  Kendo is fought with a bamboo shinai, intended
    to resemble a two-handed Japanese battle sword.  Combatants wear
    armour, and strike to the top or sides of the head, the sides of the
    body, the throat, or the wrists.  Accepted technique must be
    observed, and judges watch for accuracy, power, and spirit.  See the
    Japanese Sword Arts FAQ for more information.

    Other martial arts that include elements of swordsmanship are:

    Aikido -- self defence against armed and unarmed attackers.  Includes
    using and defending oneself against Japanese sword techniques.
    Arnis, Escrima -- stick fighting.
    Iaido -- the Japanese art of the draw.
    Kenjutsu -- the unadulterated Japanese martial art of the sword.
    Kung-fu -- a Chinese martial art that includes many sword techniques.
    Modern Pentathlon -- the "soldier's medley", a sport that recreates
    demands placed on a pre-20th century military messenger:  running,
    swimming, shooting, equestrian jumping, and epee fencing.
    Single Stick -- an ancestor of sabre fencing.
    SCA -- the "Society for Creative Anachronism", an organization that
    attempts to re-create the lifestyle of Medieval Europe, including
    jousts and tourneys.  Emphasizes heavy weapon and shield
    techniques, the use of armour, Florentine fencing, and fencing
    in the round.  Additional info on the SCA can be found in the
    newsgroup rec.org.sca.

2)  Which is the best weapon?

    Such a question is an open invitation to religious warfare.
    Everybody loves to participate, but nothing is ever settled.

    If the question means "what kind of fencing is the most fun?" then
    the answer is: it depends what aspects of fencing you enjoy the most.
    If you are fascinated by technique, bladework, and tactics, you will
    probably get a lot of satisfaction from foil fencing.  More visceral
    fencers who want to experience the adrenaline rush of a fast,
    agressive sword fight will want to try some sabre.  Most epee fencers
    consider themselves practical, no-nonsense sword fighters who rely on
    as few artificial rules as possible.  Enthusiasts of more medieval
    combat styles, involving armour and heavy weapons, should consider
    joining the SCA or a kendo dojo.

    On the other hand, if the question means "which weapon is the most
    deadly?"  the answer will depend on a lot of factors, not the least
    of which are the skill of the combatants, the presence of armour, the
    military and cultural context, and the rules of the fight (ie. is
    this a street fight, a gentlemen's duel, or open field warfare?).
    Most swords are highly optimized for performance in a specific
    environment, and will not perform well outside it.  Comparing two
    swords from completely different historical contexts is therefore
    extremely difficult, if not downright silly.

    Then again, perhaps the question means "which style of fencing is
    the most realistic?"  It must be said that questions of realism have
    little relevance to an activity that has almost no practical
    application in the modern world other than sport and fitness.
    Historically, however, epees have the closest resemblance (among FIE
    weapons) to real dueling swords, and the rules closely parallel
    those of actual duels (sometimes being fought to only a single
    point).  Other martial arts with a high realism factor include
    kenjutsu and some aspects of SCA fighting.

3)  What are some good fencing movies?

    The following films involve some amount of swordfighting or
    swashbuckling.  They are rated on a four-star system, which is a
    general critics' opinion of the film as a whole, not an indicator of
    the quality or quantity of the film's fencing.  Major actors and
    occasionally the director (denoted by a '!') are named.  Films with
    2 stars or less have been omitted, as have recent films that have not
    yet been widely released or reviewed.

    The Adventures of Don Juan (1949, Errol Flynn, Raymond Burr, ***)
    The Adventures of Robin Hood (1938, Errol Flynn, Basil Rathbone, ****)
    Against All Flags (1952, Errol Flynn, Anthony Quinn, **1/2)
    Barry Lyndon (1975, Ryan O'Neal, Patrick Magee, !Stanley Kubrick, ***1/2)
    Black Arrow (1985, Oliver Reed, **1/2)
    Black Pirate (1926, Douglas Fairbanks, ***1/2)
    Black Swan (1942, Tyrone Power, Anthony Quinn, ***1/2)
    Blind Fury (1990, Rutger Hauer, **1/2)
    Bob Roberts (1992, Tim Robbins, ***1/2)
    Captain Blood (1935, Errol Flynn, Basil Rathbone, ***1/2)
    The Challenge (1982, Toshiro Mifune, Scott Glenn, **1/2)
    The Charge of the Light Brigade (1936, Errol Flynn, David Niven, ****)
    Conan the Barbarian (1982, Arnold Scharzenegger, James Earl Jones, **1/2)
    The Corsican Brothers (1941, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, **1/2)
    The Count of Monte Cristo (1934, Robert Donat, ***)
    The Count of Monte Cristo (1975, Richard Chamberlain, Tony Curtis,***)
    The Court Jester (1956, Danny Kaye, Basil Rathbone, **1/2)
    Crossed Swords (1978, Raquel Welch, Charlton Heston, **1/2)
    Cyrano de Bergerac (1950, Jose Ferrer, ***1/2)
    Cyrano de Bergerac (1990, Gerard Depardieu, ****)
    Dangerous Liaisons (1988, John Malkovich, Glenn Close, ***1/2)
    The Duellists (1978, Harvey Keitel, Keith Carradine, !Ridley Scott, ***)
    El Cid (1961, Charlton Heston, Sophia Loren, ***)
    The Empire Strikes Back (1980, Mark Hamill, Harrison Ford, ****)
    Excalibur (1981, Nicol Williamson, !John Boorman, ***1/2)
    The Flame and the Arrow (1950, Burt Lancaster, Virginia Mayo, ***)
    Flesh and Blood (1985, Rutger Hauer, !Paul Verhoeven, **1/2)
    The Four Musketeers (1975, Richard Chamberlain, Michael York, ***)
    Frenchman's Creek (1944, Basil Rathbone, Joan Fontaine, ***)
    Glory (1989, Matthew Broderick, Denzel Washington, ***1/2)
    Hamlet (1948, !Laurence Olivier, ****)
    Hamlet (1969, Anthony Hopkins, ***1/2)
    Hamlet (1990, Mel Gibson, Glenn Close, !Franco Zeffirelli, ***)
    Henry V (1944, Laurence Olivier, ****)
    Henry V (1989, !Kenneth Branagh, ***1/2)
    Highlander (1986, Chistopher Lambert, Sean Connery, **1/2)
    Ivanhoe (1953, Robert Taylor, Elizabeth Taylor, ***1/2)
    Ivanhoe (1982, James Mason, **1/2)
    Ladyhawke (1985, Rutger Hauer, Michelle Pfeiffer, **1/2)
    Long John Silver (1954, Robert Newton, Kit Taylor, ***)
    Macbeth (1948, Orson Welles, Roddy McDowall, ***)
    Macbeth (1971, Jon Finch, ***1/2)
    The Magic Sword (1962, Basil Rathbone, **1/2)
    The Man in Grey (1946, James Mason, Stewart Granger, ***1/2)
    The Mark of Zorro (1920, Douglas Fairbanks, ***)
    The Mark of Zorro (1940, Basil Rathbone, Tyrone Power, ***1/2)
    Morgan the Pirate (1961, Steve Reeves, **1/2)
    The Prince and the Pauper (1937, Errol Flynn, Claude Rains, ***)
    The Princess Bride (1987, Mandy Patinkin, Cary Elwes, !Rob Reiner, ***)
    The Prisoner of Zenda (1937, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, David Niven, ****)
    The Prisoner of Zenda (1952, Stewart Granger, James Mason, ***)
    The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939, Errol Flynn, ***)
    Ran (1985, Tatsuya Nakadai, !Akira Kurosawa, ****)
    The Return of the Jedi (1983, Harrison Ford, Carrie Fisher, ***1/2)
    Robin and Marian (1976, Sean Connery, Audrey Hepburn, ***1/2)
    Romeo and Juliet (1935, Basil Rathbone, Leslie Howard, ***1/2)
    Romeo and Juliet (1954, Laurence Harvey, ***)
    Romeo and Juliet (1968, Michael York, !Franco Zeffirelli, ***1/2)
    Royal Flash (1975, Malcolm McDowell, ***)
    Sanjuro (1962, Toshiro Mifune, !Akira Kurosawa, ***)
    Scaramouche (1952, Stewart Granger, Janet Leigh, ***)
    The Scarlet Pimpernel (1935, Leslie Howard, Merle Oberon, ***1/2)
    The Sea Hawk (1940, Errol Flynn, Claude Rains, ****)
    The Seven Samurai (1954, Toshiro Mifune, !Akira Kurosawa, ****)
    The Seventh Voyage of Sinbad (1958, Kerwin Matthews, ***)
    Shogun (1980, Toshiro Mifune, Richard Chamberlain, **1/2)
    Sinbad the Sailor (1949, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, Maureen O'Hara, ***)
    The Spanish Main (1945, Maureen O'Hara, Paul Heinreid, ***)
    Spartacus (1960, Kirk Douglas, !Stanley Kubrick, ****)
    Star Wars (1977, Harrison Ford, Alec Guinness, ****)
    Sweet Liberty (1986, Alan Alda, Michael Caine, **1/2)
    The Sword of Sherwood Forest (1961, Richard Greene, Peter Cushing, **1/2)
    The Three Musketeers (1935, Walter Abel, **1/2)
    The Three Musketeers (1948, Gene Kelley, Lana Turner, ***)
    The Three Musketeers (1974, Michael York, Raquel Welch, ***)
    Throne of Blood (1957, Toshiro Mifune, !Akira Kurosawa, ****)
    Under the Red Robe (1937, Raymond Massey, ***)
    The Vikings (1958, Kirk Douglas, Tony Curtis, **1/2)
    The Warriors (1955, Errol Flynn, **1/2)
    Willow (1988, Val Kilmer, !Ron Howard, ***)
    The Yakuza (1975, Robert Mitchum, Takakura Ken, ***)
    Yojimbo (1962, Toshiro Mifune, !Akira Kurosawa, ****)
    Young Sherlock Holmes (1985, Nicholas Rowe, **1/2)

4)  Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics?

    According to Gilbert Felli, Sports Director of the International
    Olympic Committee, the IOC plans to refine future games by:

        -- limiting the number of athletes to 15000
        -- limiting officials to half the number of athletes
        -- increasing participation by women
        -- eliminating "so-called artificial team events"
        -- eliminating mixed events except in equestrian sports
        -- reducing the chance of an athlete taking part in several finals
        -- reducing the number of weight classes in sports that use them
        -- limiting sports of a similar type
        -- modernizing the Olympic program
        -- encouraging sports that provide a good television spectacle

    Rumours have circulated that "elitist" events (equestrian events,
    pentathlon, sailing, and fencing [!] have been given as examples)
    were being considered for elimination, but these are unconfirmed.
    Of more immediate concern are the future of team fencing events,
    and possible changes to the sport to make it more telegenic.

    Fencing doesn't appear to be in immediate danger.  Not only is it on
    the Atlanta 1996 Games schedule, it has been expanded to include
    Women's Epee for the first time.  Given the emphasis on new women's
    sports, Women's Sabre may be a future expansion to the Olympic sport.

5)  Does it hurt?

    Not if done properly.  A well executed fencing attack hurts no more
    than a tap on the shoulder.  Reckless and overly aggressive fencers
    can occasionally deliver painful blows, however.  Fencing *is* a
    martial art, so you should expect minor bruises and welts every now
    and again.  They are rarely intentional.

    The primary source of injury in fencing is from pulled muscles and
    joints.  Proper warm-up and stretching before fencing will minimize
    these occurences.

    There is a risk of being injured by broken weapons.  The shards of a
    snapped blade can be very sharp and cause serious injury, especially
    if the fencer doesn't immediately realize his blade is broken, and
    continues fencing.  Always wear proper protective gear to reduce
    this risk.  FIE certified jackets, britches, and masks are ideal, as
    they are made with bullet-proof fabrics such as kevlar.  If you
    cannot afford such extravagances, use a plastron (half-jacket worn
    beneath the regular fencing jacket), and avoid old and rusty masks.
    Always wear a glove that covers the cuff, to prevent blades from
    running up the sleeve.

    Fencing is often said to be safer than golf.  Whether or not this is
    true, it is an extraordinarily safe sport considering its heritage
    and nature.

6)  What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with?

    Foil is the most common starter weapon.  It is an excellent weapon
    to begin with if you have no preferences or want to learn
    generalized principles of swordfighting.  Transitions to the other
    weapons from foil are relatively straight forward.  Foil is an
    abstracted form of fencing that emphasises proper defense, and
    cleanly executed killing attacks.  Historically it was a training
    weapon for the small sword, so it is well suited for the purposes of
    learning.  However, it is far from a simple weapon, and many
    experienced fencers return to foil after trying the others.

    Sabre can also be an effective starter weapon, for a few reasons.
    Like foil, it has rules of right-of-way to emphasize proper defense,
    and its de-emphasis of point attacks can be a relief to a beginner
    who doesn't yet have much point control.  Also, many low-level sabre
    competitions are still fenced dry, meaning that it can be the
    cheapest of all weapons to compete in (although electric sabre is
    definitely the most expensive weapon to compete in).  However, sabre
    differs from foil and epee in a few key respects that can reduce its
    effectiveness as a starter weapon if the fencer plans to try the
    others in the future.  Among these differences are the
    aforementioned de-emphasis of point attacks, and a different sense
    of timing and distance.

    Epee can sometimes be a good starter weapon for two reasons.  First,
    the rules are simple and easy to grasp, and second, the competition
    costs are lower, since no lame' is required.  However, the apparent
    simplicity of the sport can obscure its subtleties to the beginner,
    and make progress difficult later on.  Furthermore, the lack of
    right-of-way in epee can make transitions to the other two weapons
    difficult, if put off for too long.

7)  How long does it take to become good?

    There is a saying that it takes two lifetimes to master fencing.  By
    the time anyone has come close to "mastering" the sport, they are
    long past their athletic prime.  Some may feel that this is a
    drawback to the sport, but most fencers see it as a great strength:
    fencing never becomes dull or routine; there are always new skills to
    master, and new grounds to conquer.

    A dedicated novice who practices twice per week will be ready to
    try low-level competition in 3-6 months.  Competition at this point
    should be viewed as a learning aid, not as a dedicated effort to win.

    Serious attempts at competing will be possible after 2-3 years,
    when the basic skills have been sufficiently mastered that the
    mind is free to consider strategy.

    A moderate level of skill (eg. C classification) can take 3-6 years
    of regular practice and competition.

    Penetration of the elite ranks (eg. world cup, A classification)
    demands three to five days per week of practice and competition, and
    usually at least 10-15 years of experience.

    Progress can be faster or slower, depending on the fencer's aptitude,
    attitude, and dedication.  Rapid progress normally requires at least
    three practices per week, and regular competition against superior
    fencers.

    The average world champion is in his late 20s to early 30s and began
    fencing as a child.

8)  What qualities make a good fencer?

    There are many.

    On the athletic side, speed and endurance must rank foremost.  Other
    traits that can be exploited are strength, precision, and flexibility.
    Quick reaction time is extremely important.

    On the intellectual side, a good mind for strategy and tactics is
    essential.  The ability to quickly size up your opponent and adapt
    your style accordingly is essential.

    Psychologically, a fencer must be able to maintain focus, concentration,
    and emotional level-headedness under intense conditions of combat.
    Stress management, visualization, and relaxation techniques are all
    helpful to putting in winning performances.

    As far as body type goes, it is always possible to adapt your style
    to take advantage of your natural traits.  Even so, height seems to
    be useful in epee, but not necessarily in sabre.  Small or thin
    people are harder to hit in foil.  A long reach helps in epee, and
    long legs are an asset in foil.

    It should be noted that left handers usually enjoy a slight advantage,
    especially against inexperienced fencers.  This may account for the
    fact that lefties make up 15% of fencers, but half of FIE world
    champions.

9)  How much does it cost to get involved in fencing?

    Beginner's dry fencing setup:  about $100 US
    Includes: cotton jacket, glove, dry weapon, mask

    FIE Competition setup:  about $500 - $1000 US
    Includes:  FIE 800N jacket & britches, FIE 800N mask, at least
           2 FIE (maraging) electric weapons, body cord, socks, glove,
           shoes, lame (foil & sabre only), sensor (sabre only).
    Note:  costs can be as much as halved by avoiding purchasing
       FIE certified clothing and arms.  While such equipment is
       required at national (Canada and Europe, but not USA) and
       international levels of competition, most local tournaments
       will overlook it.  If you use a cotton or synthetic knit
       jacket, however, be sure to wear a plastron underneath.

    Club costs vary, but are usually on the order of $50-$100 per year
    for each day per week of fencing.  Many clubs will provide or rent
    equipment to beginners.

10) What kind of cross-training will help my fencing?

    The best training for fencing is fencing.  Few other sports use the
    same muscle groups, so this is a difficult question whose answer
    depends largely on what aspect of your training you really want to
    focus on.

    Cardiovascular fitness and leg strength always help, so anything that
    enhances these will be beneficial.  Cycling, swimming, and aerobics
    are good examples.  Running, sprinting, soccer, basketball, and
    similar sports can also be helpful, although some athletes dislike
    the stresses they put on the knees.  Racquet sports like tennis,
    badminton, squash, racquetball, and table tennis are also excellent,
    and will exercise your weapon arm and reflexes in addition to your
    legs.

    Many martial arts have physical and mental demands that are similar
    to fencing, and can improve both your fitness and your intellectual
    approach to the sport.  Technique and tactics very rarely translate,
    however.

    Weight training can help, if done properly, but the athlete must
    remember that flexibility, speed, and technique are more important
    than raw strength.  Endurance training should have priority over
    strength training or bodybuilding.

    Some fencers maintain that juggling improves reactions, hand-eye
    coordination, and use of peripheral vision.

    Many coaches and fencers suggest occasional fencing or workouts with
    your opposite hand, both to improve skill and balance your muscular
    development.

11) Everything you always wanted to know about right-of-way.

    Right-of-way is the set of rules used to determine who is awarded the
    point when there is a double touch in foil or sabre (ie. both fencers
    hit each other in the same fencing time).  If there is only one hit,
    or if the hits are separated by more than one fencing time, then
    there is no question as to who gets the point, and right-of-way is of
    little relevance to scoring.

    The basic idea behind right-of-way is that a fencing bout is always
    in one of three states:

    1) nothing significant is happening

    2) the fencers are conceiving and executing their actions
           simultaneously

    3) one fencer is controlling the action and tempo and the other
           is trying to gain control.

    Since no points will be scored in the first situation, we can ignore
    it.  In the second situation, the fencers' actions have equal
    significance, and it is impossible to award a single touch.  Either
    neither fencer will be awarded the touch (foil), or both fencers will
    be awarded the touch (sabre).

    The third situation is the tricky one.  The controlling fencer has
    the right-of-way, and his hit has precedence over any hit from the
    other fencer.  It is inappropriate for the other fencer to attack
    when he is not controlling the action, since such an action may be
    tantamount to suicide.  The job of the director is to decide which
    fencer was NOT controlling the action, and annul his touch.  If he
    cannot decide, the director should abstain, annul BOTH hits, and
    resume the action where it left off.

    Control (and right-of-way) is taken whenever one fencer threatens
    the other with his blade; the threat should be indicated by an
    extending arm and a weapon that continuously threatens the target.
    In other words, the scoring part of the weapon should be on a smooth
    trajectory that will meet the target if nothing is done to prevent
    it.  This trajectory can be curved (especially if the attack is a cut
    or compound attack) but should not involve hesitations or movements
    of the blade away from the target.  A "point in line" is also a valid
    threat (although not an attack), since the other fencer cannot
    approach without getting hit.

    Some directors adopt a more liberal notion of threat when the above
    criteria are ambiguous.  In these cases, right-of-way can be assigned
    to the fencer who is obviously controlling the tempo and action, such
    as through an aggressive advance.  This convention is not universal
    at all levels of fencing.

    Control (and right-of-way) is lost when an attack misses, falls
    short, is broken off, or is deflected away from the target by a
    parry, attack on the blade, or prise de fer from the defender.  The
    defender has a split-second window of opportunity to return the
    attack (ie. riposte) before the attacker recovers; if he does so, he
    takes over right-of-way and the tables have turned.  Otherwise it is
    a toss-up; the first fencer to start an attack will sieze the
    right-of-way.

    Normally, control should be asserted in as clear and unambiguous a
    manner as possible, not only to ensure that the director understands
    that you are taking the right-of-way, but so that your opponent does
    as well.  If your opponent is not aware that you are in control, his
    actions may be quite unpredictable and dangerous.  Even so, sometimes
    it is to your advantage to conceal your control from the opponent
    (such as when you try to draw the counter-attack).  Obviously it is
    very unwise to conceal your control from the director.

    The right-of-way relationships between common fencing actions are as
    follows:

    - the simple attack has right-of-way over the stop-hit
    - the stop-hit in time has right-of-way over the compound attack
    - point in line has right-of-way over the attack
    - attacks on the blade have right-of-way over the point in line
    - derobement has right-of-way over attacks on the blade
    - the stop-hit has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack
    - the riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack
    - the counter-riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the riposte
    - the remise of the attack has right-of-way over the delayed riposte

12) Are flicks legitimate attacks?

    A "flick" is an attack that is executed with a cutting motion
    followed by a sudden stop, so that the foible of the blade whips
    around a blocking parry or body part to score.  The attack is
    controversial for several reasons.

    The most important concern with flicks is that they challenge many
    commonly-held beliefs about what constitutes right-of-way in a
    foil attack.  In particular, some fencers believe that flicks do
    not take the right-of-way because they begin out-of-line (ie.
    pointing away from the target) and often with a significantly bent
    arm.  Because of this, they feel that by counter-attacking into the
    flick, they should be awarded the attack on the preparation.

    An important point to consider with flicks is that although they are
    technically thrusts in the sense that the force of the hit is
    directed into the tip of the weapon, they are fundamentally cuts in
    their execution and technique.  That is to say that the main
    component of the motion of the blade is perpendicular to its length.

    Proper judgement of whether a flick takes the right-of-way must
    account for this cutting technique.  From sabre fencing we know that
    a blade need not be in line to pose a threat; in fact it cannot be in
    line during a cut.  These attacks still have the right-of-way,
    however, since the scoring part of the weapon is still moving towards
    the target on a smooth trajectory.  Flicks are smooth, continuous
    actions that do result in hits;  therefore these attacks are
    legitimate threats as soon as the blade starts moving forward.

    A flick (or any attack, for that matter) takes the right-of-way as
    soon as the arm begins its extension and the point starts moving
    forward.  A successful attack on the preparation must start BEFORE
    the final extension of the flick begins.  The same is true of any
    attack that begins out of line, whether it is a flick or not.

    A secondary concern with flicks is that some fencers dislike them
    because they are non-traditional and rely on blade properties that
    did not exist in the golden age of dueling.  Such concerns are of
    relevance to historical re-creations of fencing, such as one finds in
    stage fighting or the SCA.  The sport of fencing, however, is not a
    simulation of 17th century murder techniques, but a modern, dynamic,
    highly technological sport that honours those techniques that work
    today, not just the ones that worked a couple of centuries ago.

    Regardless of how one feels about the flick, it is a legitimate
    attack, and a very dangerous one in the hands of a skilled fencer.
    It is important for experienced fencers to know how to use it and/or
    defend themselves against it.

13) How do I find a good fencing club?

    Start with your local Provincial or Divisional fencing association.
    If you don't know how to find them, contact your national fencing
    body (see question 16).  The local association will be able to tell
    you about officially recognized clubs in your area.  Many
    universities and colleges also sponsor fencing clubs and teams that
    will often accept non-students as members.  You might also check out
    courses or camps offered by local community centers.  Once you have a
    list of potential clubs, you will want to evaluate them and your
    needs.  Desirable qualities vary, depending on your skill level and
    what you want to get out of fencing.

    Ask the following questions when selecting your club (if you're not
    sure what you want, "yes" is a good answer to all these questions):
    Does it have an active beginners' program?  Are there enough fencers
    of your own skill level?  Are there some fencers above your skill
    level?  If you don't have your own equipment, does the club provide
    it?  Does the club have ample electric scoring boxes and reels?  Does
    the club emphasize the same weapons that you are interested in?  Do
    club members compete regularly?  Does the club have a master or
    coach?  Has he/she had many competitive successes either fencing or
    coaching?  Can you get individual lessons and instruction?  At no
    extra cost?

    Lastly, atmosphere is important to any social endeavour.  Choose a
    club that makes you feel comfortable and relaxed without sacrificing
    the athletic spirit that is essential to progress.

14) What kind of equipment should I buy?

    This FAQ does not endorse particular brands, but will point out some
    of the things to consider when purchasing equipment.

    CLOTHING: FIE 800N clothing is the most expensive available, and is
    required at the highest levels of competition.  It includes special
    fabrics (such as kevlar or ballistic nylon) around vital areas such
    as the chest, belly, and groin, and is highly resistant to punctures
    by broken blades.  Alternatively, you can purchase kevlar
    underclothes and wear regular cotton outerwear.  If not using 800N
    clothing, cotton or synthetic jackets should be utilised in
    conjunction with a plastron.  Most jackets are left- or
    right-handed.  Sabre fencers may wish to consider extra protective
    padding and elbow protectors.  Jock straps are helpful for men, and
    breast protectors are essential for women.  A glove for the fencing
    hand is essential; it should cover the sleeve cuff, and have an
    opening at the wrist for the body wire.  For the anal-retentive, FIE
    rules state that fencers must wear only white, and that skin must
    not show between the socks and pant legs.  For casual and beginner
    fencers, sweat pants or baseball knickers are reasonable
    alternatives to genuine fencing clothing.

    MASKS:  The best have FIE 800N bibs to protect the neck, but cost
    considerably more than the regular varieties.  For foil, masks should
    be well-insulated to prevent touches to the head from conducting to
    the lame' and registering as a touch.  Electric sabre masks must be
    conductive, on the other hand, to allow head touches.  Avoid old and
    rusty masks, and consider subjecting a used mask to a punch test
    before using/purchasing it.

    LAME'S:  Stainless steel is preferred, as they are much more corrosion
    resistant than older copper ones.  Your lame' should come to your hip
    bones, and be form-fitting but not tight.  Most lame's come in right
    and left-handed versions.  Regular rinsing or careful hand-washing of
    your lame' (especially immediately after a tournament or practice) will
    improve its lifespan.  Avoid folding, crumpling, or abrading it.

    WEAPONS:  Maraging steel blades are now required at the highest levels
    of competition.  They are about twice the price of regular blades, but
    are supposed to be more durable, and break more cleanly.  There are a
    large number of variables to consider when shopping for blades,
    including stiffness, length, durability, flex point, weight, balance,
    and (of course) price.  Which qualities a fencer prefers is largely a
    matter of taste.  The length and thread of the tang may also be an
    issue.  A wide variety of grips are available to epee and foil fencers,
    but choice is also a matter of preference.  Guards come in various
    sizes and weights.  Some fencers will also have preferences between
    2-prong and bayonet body cords and connectors.

    SHOES:  Fencing shoes are ideal, but expensive.  Indoor court shoes,
    volleyball shoes, and even wrestling shoes are good alternatives.

15) Where can I order or buy equipment?

    Most of the following businesses will mail you a catalogue if
    requested.  This FAQ does not endorse any of these companies.

    USA:

    Triplette Competiton Arms            Blade Fencing Equipment, Inc.
    162 W. Pine St.              212 West 15th St.
    Mt Airy, NC 27030             NY, NY 10011
    TEL: [phone]             TEL: [phone]
                     FAX: [phone]
    George Santelli, Inc.
    465 South Dean St.             American Fencers Supply
    Englewood, NJ 07631             1180 Folsom St.
    TEL: [phone]             San Francisco, CA 94103
                     TEL: [phone]
    Colonial Distributing
       Fencing Equipment         Uhlmann International
    PO Box 636                 Wolf Finck, Pres. USA Headquarters
    Cedarburg, Wisconsin 53012         330 N. Fayette Drive
    TEL: [phone]             Fayetteville, GA 30214
    FAX: [phone]             TEL: [phone]

    The Fencing Post                     Zivkovic Modern Fencing Equipment
    2543 Monticello Way                  77 Arnold Road
    Santa Clara, CA 95051                Wellesley Hills, MA 02181
    TEL: [phone]

    CANADA:

    Fencing Equipment Calgary            Herb Obst Agency
    2407 Bayview Place                 CP 788 NDG Station
    Calgary, Alberta T2V 0L6             Montreal, Quebec H4A 3S2
    TEL: [phone]                 TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]                 FAX: [phone]

    BRITAIN:

    Blades                               Leon Paul
    35 Edinburgh Drive             14 New North Street
    Staines, Middlesex TW18 1PJ         London WC1N 3PW
    TEL: [phone]             TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]             FAX: [phone]

    AUSTRALIA:

    Aladdin Sports
    46 Hosken Street
    North Balwyn 3104
    TEL: [phone]
    TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]
    EMAIL: [e-mail]

    SCORING MACHINES ONLY:

    Fencing Technologies                 Commodore Systems
    P.O. Box 16181                        P.O. Box 22992
    Minneapolis, MN, 55416          Nashville, TN 37202
    TEL/FAX: [phone]         TEL: [phone]
    EMAIL: [e-mail]

16) What organizations control fencing?

    Federation Internationale d'Escrime
    32, Rue La Boetie
    75008 Paris, France

    Amateur Fencing Association (Britain)
    1 Barons Gate
    33-35 Rothschild Road
    London W4 5HT
    Tel: [phone]

    Canadian Fencing Federation
    1600 Prom. James Naismith Drive
    Gloucester, ON   K1B 5N4
    TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]

    United States Fencing Association
    1750 East Boulder Street
    Colorado Springs, CO 80909-5774
    TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]

    Contact your national fencing body to get the addresses and phone
    numbers of your local/provincial/divisional fencing associations.

17) Bibliography

    This list has been compiled from suggestions by rec.sport.fencing
    readers, and is far from complete.

    Alaux, Modern Fencing (Charles Scribner, ?)
    Anderson, All About Fencing (Arco, 1970)
    Angelo, The School of Fencing (Land's End Press, 1971)
    Bowers, Foil Fencing (?, 1991?)
    Castello, The Theory and Practice of Fencing (Charles Scribner, 1933)
    Castello, Fencing (Ronald Press, 1962)
    Castle, The Schools and Masters of Fence (?, ?)
    Crosnier, Fencing with the Foil (Faber & Faber, 1951)
    Curry, The Fencing Book (?, 1984)
    FIE, Rules of Competition (AFA, CFF, USFA, etc., every year)
    de Beaumont, Fencing: Ancient Art and Modern Sport (?, ?)
    Gaugler, Fencing Everyone (Hunter, 1987)
    Hutton, The Sword and the Centuries (Charles E. Tuttle, 1980)
    Lukovich, Electric Foil Fencing (Corvina Press, 1971)
    Lukovich, Fencing (Corvina Press, 1986)
    Morton, A-Z of Fencing (Antler, 1988?)
    Nadi, On Fencing (G.P. Putnam, 1943)
    Palffy-Alpar, Sword and Masque (FA Davis, 1967)
    Pitman, Fencing, Techniques of Foil, Epee, and Sabre (Crowood, 1988)
    Manley, Compleate Fencing (Doubleday, 198?)
    Selberg, Foil (Addison-Wesley, 1976)

18) Glossary of terms:

    Assault:  friendly combat between two fencers.
    Attack: an offensive action that includes extension of the arm, a
    forward moving blade, and the threatening of the target with the
    scoring part of the weapon.
    Attack au Fer:  an attack on the opponent's blade, eg. beat,
    froissement.
    Balestra:  a forward hop or jump, typically followed by an attack
    such as a lunge or fleche.
    Bayonet:  a type of electrical connector for weapons.
    Beat:  an attempt to knock the opponent's blade aside or out of line.
    Bind:  an action in which one fencer forces the opponent's blade into
    the diagonally opposite line, by trapping it between the guard
    and fort of his own blade.
    Black Card:  used to indicate the most serious offences in a fencing
    competition.  The offending fencer is usually expelled from the
    event or tournament.
    Bout:  an assault at which the score is kept.
    Broadsword: a military sword and fencing weapon popular in the 18th-19th
    centuries, similar to a heavy sabre; any straight-bladed, double-
    edged, single-handed cutting sword of the post-medieval period.
    Broken Time:  a sudden change in the tempo of one fencer's actions, used
    to fool the opponent into responding at the wrong time.
    Compound:  an attack or riposte incorporating one or more feints to the
    opposite line that the action finishes in.
    Conversation:  the back-and-forth play of the blades in a fencing match,
    composed of phrases (phrases d'armes) punctuated by gaps of no
    blade action.
    Counter-attack:  an attack made against the right-of-way, or in
    response to the opponent's attack.
    Counter-parry:  a parry made in the opposite line to the attack; ie.
    the defender first comes around to the opposite side of the
    opponent's blade.
    Counter-riposte:  an attack that follows a parry of the opponent's
    riposte.
    Counter-time: an attack that responds to the opponent's counter-attack.
    Corps-a-corps: lit. "body-to-body"; physical contact between the
    two fencers during a bout, illegal in foil and sabre.
    Coule': also graze, glise', or glissade; an attack or feint that slides
    along the opponent's blade.
    Coupe': also cut-over; an attack that passes around the opponent's tip.
    Croise: also semi-bind; an action in which one fencer forces the
    opponent's blade into the high or low line on the same side, by
    trapping it between the guard and fort of his own blade.
    Cut:  an attack made with a chopping motion of the blade, landing with
    the edge or point (see Flick).
    Derobement:  avoidance of an attempt to take the blade.
    Direct: an attack or riposte that finishes in the same line in which it
    was formed, with no feints out of that line.
    Disengage:  a circular movement of the blade that avoids the
    opponent's parry.
    Double':  an attack or riposte that describes a complete circle
    around the opponent's blade, and finishes in the opposite line.
    En Garde:  also On Guard; the fencing position; the stance that
    fencers assume when preparing to fence.
    Envelopment: an action that sweeps the opponent's blade through a full
    circle.
    Epee:  a fencing weapon with triangular cross-section blade and a large
    bell guard;  also a light dueling sword of similar design, popular
    in the mid-19th century.
    False attack:  an attack that is intended to miss or fall short,
    intended to produce a reaction from the opponent.
    Feint:  attacking into one line with the intention of switching to
    another line before the attack is completed.
    Fencing Time: also temps d'escrime; the time required to complete
    a single, simple fencing action.
    Fleche:  lit. "arrow";  an attack in which the aggressor leaps off his
    leading foot, attempts to make the hit, and then passes the opponent
    at a run.
    Flick:  a cut that lands with the point, often involving some whip of
    the foible of the blade.
    Florentine: a fencing style where a secondary weapon or other instrument
    is used in the opposite hand.
    Foible:  the upper, weak part of the blade.
    Foil: a fencing weapon with rectangular cross-section blade and a small
    bell guard; any sword that has been buttoned to render it less
    dangerous for practice.
    Fort:  the lower, strong part of the blade.
    French Grip: a traditional hilt with a slightly curved grip and a large
    pommel.
    Froissement:  an attack that displaces the opponent's blade by a
    strong grazing action.
    Guard:  the metal cup that protects the hand from being hit.  Foils
    use small bell guards, epees use large bell guards, and sabres
    have a knuckle guard that wraps around the hilt to protect from
    cuts to the hand.
    Hilt:  the handle of a sword, consisting of guard, grip, and pommel.
    Homologated:  certified for use in FIE competitions, eg. 800N clothing
    and maraging blades.
    In Quartata:  an attack made with a quarter turn to the inside,
    concealing the front but exposing the back.
    In Time:  when a stop-hit arrives at least one fencing time before
    the original attack.
    Indirect: an attack or riposte that finishes in the opposite line to
    which it was formed.
    Insistence:  forcing an attack through the parry, using strength.
    Italian Grip:  a traditional hilt with finger rings and crossbar.
    Lame':  a metallic vest/jacket used to detect valid touches in foil
    and sabre.
    Line: the main direction of an attack (eg., high/low, inside/outside),
    often equated to the parry that must be made to deflect the attack.
    Lunge:  an attack made by extending the rear leg and landing on the
    bent front leg.
    Mal-parry:  a parry that fails to prevent the attack from landing.
    Maraging:  a special steel used for making blades;  tends to be stronger
    and break more cleanly than conventional steels.
    Match:  the aggregate of bouts between two fencing teams.
    Neunte:  parry #9; blade behind the back, pointing down.
    Octave:  parry #8; blade down and to the outside, wrist supinated.
    Opposition:  an attack or counter-attack in the same line as the
    attacker's blade.
    Parry:  a block of the attack, made with one's own blade.
    Passata-sotto:  a lunge made by dropping one hand to the floor.
    Phrase:  a set of related actions and reactions in a fencing conversation.
    Piste:  the linear strip on which a fencing bout is fought; approx.
    2m wide and 14m long.
    Pistol Grip:  a modern, orthopaedic grip, shaped vaguely like a small
    pistol;  varieties are known by names such as Belgian, German,
    Russian, and Visconti.
    Plastron: a partial jacket worn for extra protection; typically a
    half-jacket worn under the main jacket on the weapon-arm side of the
    body.
    Point in Line: also line; an extended arm and blade that threatens
    the opponent.
    Pommel:  a fastener that attaches the grip to the blade.
    Preparation:  the initial phase of an attack, before right-of-way is
    established.
    Pressure: an attempt to push the opponent's blade aside or out of line;
    depending on the opponent's response, the pressure is followed by a
    direct or indirect attack.
    Prime:  parry #1;  blade down and to the inside, wrist pronated.
    Priority:  in sabre, the now-superceded rules that decide which fencer
    will be awarded the touch in the event that they both attack
    simultaneously.
    Prise de Fer:  also taking the blade; an engagement of the blades
    that attempts to control the opponent's weapon.  See: bind,
    croise, envelopment, opposition.
    Quarte:  parry #4;  blade up and to the inside, wrist supinated.
    Quinte:  parry #5;  blade up and to the inside, wrist pronated.
    In sabre, the blade is held above the head to protect from head
    cuts.
    Rapier:  a long, double-edged thrusting sword popular in the 16th-17th
    centuries.
    Red Card:  used to indicate repeated minor rule infractions or a major
    rule infraction by one of the fencers;  results in a point being
    given to the other fencer.
    Redoublement: a new action that follows an attack that missed or
    was parried.
    Remise:  immediate replacement of an attack that missed or was
    parried, without withdrawing the arm.
    Reprise:  renewal of an attack that missed or was parried, after a
    return to en-garde.
    Right-of-way:  rules for awarding the point in the event of a double
    touch in foil or sabre.  (see question 11)
    Riposte:  an attack made immediately after a parry of the opponent's
    attack.
    Sabre: a fencing weapon with a flat blade and knuckle guard, used with
    cutting or thrusting actions; a military sword popular in the 18th
    to 20th centuries; any single-edged lightweight cutting sword used
    by cavalry.
    Salle:  a fencing hall or club.
    Second Intention: a false action used to draw a response from the
    opponent, which will open the opportunity for the intended
    action that follows.
    Seconde:  parry #2;  blade down and to the outside, wrist pronated.
    Septime:  parry #7;  blade down and to the inside, wrist supinated.
    Simple:  an attack or riposte that involves no feints.
    Simultaneous:  in epee, two hits that arrive within 1/20 - 1/25 s of
    each other.  In foil and sabre, two attacks for which the
    right-of-way is too close to determine.
    Sixte:  parry #6;  blade up and to the outside, wrist supinated.
    Small Sword: also court sword; a light dueling sword popular in the 18th
    century.
    Stop Hit:  a counter-attack that hits.
    Three Prong:  a type of epee body wire/connector;  also an old-fashioned
    tip that would snag clothing, sometimes used in conjunction with dye
    markers to make it easier to detect hits in the pre-electric era.
    Thrust:  an attack made by moving the sword parallel to its length and
    landing with the point.
    Tierce:  parry #3;  blade up and to the outside, wrist pronated.
    Time Hit:  old name for stop hit with opposition.
    Two Prong:  a type of body-wire/connector, used in foil and sabre.
    Whip-over:  in sabre, a touch that results from the foible of the blade
    whipping over the opponent's guard or blade when parried.
    Whites:  fencing clothing.
    Yellow Card:  also advertissement, warning;  used to indicate a minor
    rule infraction by one of the fencers.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Author:  Morgan Burke ([e-mail])
Contributors: many helpful suggestions made by Suman Palit and Guy Smith;
    some fencing supply house addresses obtained from Greg Dilworth
    and Kevin Taylor; USFA address and some books suggested by Eric
    Anderson;  British sources supplied by Blaine Price.

(C) 1993 Morgan Burke
Permission is granted to copy and distribute all or part of this document
for non-profit purposes.

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End of rec.sport.fencing FAQ