Usenet 1994 October/usenetsourcesnewsgroupsinfomagicoctober1994disk1.iso/answers/dogs-faq/misc/part2

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Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Assorted Topics [Part II] FAQ
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Archive-name: dogs-faq/misc/part2
Last-modified: 05 Dec 1993

This is one of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists for
rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates, additions,
and corrections (including attributions) are always welcome: send
email to one of the addresses at the end of this article.

The multiple parts are all archived at rtfm.mit.edu in the directory
/pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, getting-a-dog, new-puppy, new-dog, health-care,
breeding, medical-info, training, behavior, working, service,
AKC-titles, misc/part1, misc/part2, rescue/part1, rescue/part2,
publications and resources.

To obtain the files, first try ftp to rtfm.edu and look under
that directory.  If ftp does not work from your site, then try
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send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1992, 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.  This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]           USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


ASSORTED TOPICS (Part II).

  A.  Owner Allergies.
  B.  Pet Doors.
  C.  Pet Insurance.
  D.  Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
  E.  Photographing Black Dogs
  F.  Record Keeping.
  G.  Removing Odors and Stains.
  H.  Separation Anxiety.
  I.  Travel and International Travel.
  J.  Vicious Dogs.
  K.  Waste Composters.
  L.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.

(Part II)
A.  Owner Allergies.

You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
specific allergies.  This can be expensive, but worth it, especially
if you have other allergies as well.  They'll test you for the things
you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
develop an appropriate immunity to them (you should be aware that the
shots do not always work).  Be sure to find an allergy specialist
familiar with dog allergies: there are far too many doctors out there
that will simply say "Get rid of your pets."  Other approaches may be
used as well: cortisone nasal sprays, eye drops, etc.  Air filters
often help, as well as reducing the amount of wall-to-wall carpeting,
if possible.  Find someone who will work with your particular problem.

Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
problems.  It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
problem.  Some people are allergic to the hair, but others are
allergic to the dander.  Still others are not specifically allergic to
dogs, but are allergic to things like dust and the dogs provide an
*additional* irritant that is sufficent when combined with other
allergens to provoke a reaction.  In yet other cases, people are
allergic to a dog *licking* them.  You must find out which is true for
your case.

Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
with little or no coat.  Others do well with poodles and schnauzers
and airedales who have a different type of coat.  A lot of people do
well with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are
supposed to have hair much more like human hair.

This is VERY important: every dog lover with allergy problems needs to
spend some time with different breeds to find the one that doesn't
aggravate the problem.

In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
problems.  There is also a spray available that you put on the dog
that is supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called
Allerpet/D Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800
number you can call for more information.


B.  Pet Doors.

Some points:

  * Get one that at least has magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
    In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door",
    i.e, the outer door must close before the inner one opens.  This
    would cut down on the drafts.

  * Size is deceptive.  Dogs don't really need as much space as you
    might think to get in and out.

  * Installation is usually very easy.  Some models fit into patio
    doors and are removable.  Make sure the one you get is lockable or
    blockable.  If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because
    then you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to
    attach to.

  * The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
    and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it.  In particular, it
    could make fire insurance claims tricky.  And if you sell the
    house, you will have to fix the hole first.

  * Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
    someone to push something through it to open a door or window,
    even if they can't crawl through themselves.  Ideally, you should
    have some way of locking or disabling the door for times when you
    are gone, say on vacation.

Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended.  RC Steele stocks them.
Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).

There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
collar.  Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
to 110lbs.  These help keep unwanted animals from entering your house.
These are, of course, somewhat expensive.

Some dogs need coaxing to use the door.  Prop the door open and offer
a treat from the other side.  Don't try and push your dog through.


C.  Pet Insurance.

Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
also cover routine medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.

Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
on an actual claim.  In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
come back with a favorable story on claim processing.


D.  Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.

1.  Pet Sitting

In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
of your pets while you are gone.  If you are using a professional
service as opposed to a friend or relative, try to find one that's not
just one person doing it but is a business that has several people
working for them.  When it's a business with people working for them
the owners of the business are more likely to expect their people to
do a good job and be responsive to people complaining about poor
service.  Watch out for the business changing hands.

Check with the National Association of Pet Sitters.  Members must sign
a code of ethics and can be removed if there are complaints.  They can
give you a list of pet sitters in your area.  Their address is 632
Holly Ave, Winston Salem, NC 27101 and phone (919) 723-PETS.  Their
brochure includes their code of ethics, and includes a list of what to
look for in a reputable pet sitter; included in list below.

Ask the company if they're bonded or insured.  See if they'll send
someone more than once a day.  Ask for references from previous and
current customers.  Some will bring the paper and mail in and help
make the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.

Check the potential sitter for the following:

1.  Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
    and stating fees?
2.  Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
    client and pet to obtain detailed information?
3.  Does the sitter arrive on time?
4.  Does the sitter get along with your pet?  Does the sitter exhibit
    confidence and ease with your pets?
5.  Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
6.  Does the sitter have written references?
7.  Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
    clients for references?
8.  Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
    services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
9.  Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
    Business Bureau?
10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
    inquiries promptly?
11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
    trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
    services?
13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
    event of inclement weather or personal illness?
14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
15. How does the pet-sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
    Are there any prerequisites for employment?
16. Does the pet sitter or pet-sitting service telephone to determine
    if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
    client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
    feedback and evaluation of pet-sitting services?
18. Does the pet-sitting service have an established system for
    handling customer complaints?
19. When does the sitter get paid?  Before or after you come back?
    A deposit up front and the rest later?

Try to find word of mouth recommendations.  You might try calling
several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
specific complaints lodged with a particular business.

2.  Kennels

Look around for a good one.  Experiences can be good or awful
depending on the kennel.

One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
in Colorado Springs.  You can use this organization to help you choose
a kennel.  If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
small packet of information.  One part is a booklet on how to choose a
kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
around the country.

An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
spelled out in their literature.  The things they suggest you look for
and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
are good suggestions you might not think of.

4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A
Colorado Springs, CO  80915
719-591-1113


E.  Photographing Black Dogs

Information compiled by Ruth Ginzberg, lightly edited by moi.

Many people with black dogs have trouble getting a good photo of the
dog.  Some of the characterizations of how the photos turn out: "large
black blob", "no, large black blob with pink tongue sticking out of
it", "large black blob with eyes" (you get the idea).

If you want a few QUICK HINTS on how to address this problem, here
they are, as summarized well by Dennis Swanson:

  * 1) set the camera to underexpose by two stops from what it recommends, if
       possible

  * 2) whether this is possible or not, tell the photofinisher to forget the
       background and print your dog black but with detail in the fur

  * 3) for photos to be scrutinized by possible clients, have them done by a
       professional

If you want more detailed information, keep reading.  :-)

Andy Kane has some advice about selecting a photo finisher:

  * With 10 years of experience there is one answer to your question
    about black dogs being too dark and magenta(pink).  Take your
    negatives to a local film processor, one that prints in lab, and
    wait for the results. If you get the same result ask them to
    please reprint your negative at -1 magenta and -2 denisty from
    where they have it right now. I do this work for a living. What
    normally happens is with the new scanners in print processors the
    total area of the negative is scanned and averaged for color and
    denisty. Therefore a black dog will print a little dark and if the
    background is grass (green) the the scanner will tend to over
    compensate and give you an dog with a little magenta tink(pink).
    The same holds true for the other problem print of a portrait of a
    person wearing a red shirt, in this case the flesh tones result a
    little cyan (blue,geen) the opposite of the red shirt.  I see this
    black dog case everyday and I hope that I correct for it everytime
    but even good processors can miss and will be more than happy to
    redo your print at no charge to you. You can not get this kind of
    service from drug store or mail service processing labs. Good luck

Ty Monson sympathizes with our difficulties, noting that photographing
black animals is not a problem only for we amateurs:

  * Seriously, photographing black dogs, cats, cattle, llamas, etc.
    *is* difficult. The difficulty is compounded by shooting color
    negatives and relying on Qualex (or other popularly-priced photo
    finisher) to produce the prints.[see above for advice] Assuming
    that a person is taking snapshots for the family album, I can
    recommend setting your pet against a dark background as a starting
    point. When the main subject and background are *both* dark, the
    printer will lighten the print.

You will get more detailed features on the dog in the photo this way,
but your dog will look lighter colored than s/he actually is. Jimmy
Tung explained why this happens:

  * First assuming that you're using negative film, and just some
    basics for everybody: The camera doesn't see a black dog.  It sees
    an average object which must be kinda average grey (18% if you
    like) in color.  So the meter will tell you something which will
    overexpose the pic, giving you a grey dog, as well as washing out
    the background. In the original post, the dogs were described as
    big black blobs with pink tongues, etc.  If the photofinisher
    looks at the negative described above, he'll say "gee, these
    people would rather have a good looking background", so they start
    tweaking the density and color balance until you end up with all
    of the other colors OK, and a black dog, except now your black dog
    is too black, and it looks featureless.

Marc Clarke expanded on this, explaining that:

  * The problem probably comes from the fact that Through The Lense
    (TTL) camera meters try to render whatever reflective surface they
    are pointed at as an 18% gray.  If you point a TTL camera's meter
    at a white house (or dog), the meter will indicate the amount of
    exposure you need to make the side of the white house appear as
    18% gray.  If you point the TTL camera's meter at a black dog, the
    meter will indicate the exposure you need to make the black dog
    appear as an 18% gray dog.  TTL meters are really good at telling
    you what exposure to use for 18% gray things.  TTL meters are
    lousy at directly telling you what exposure to use for black or
    white things.

Ty suggests some ways you can try to get around this problem:

  * Oh, but you DID want the dog to look BLACK?  Black is the
    (relative) absence of light. The trick is to get enough gloss
    (luster, glare) off the animal's fur to define shape, without
    washing-out the blackness.  Two things a snapshooter can do is
    photograph your pet 1/4 side lighted from a window (overcast day)
    or set a piece of white poster board next to the animal (out of
    the camera's field of view.) A white wall may work, too. ...  Be
    inventive. Look! The camera lens sees what your eye sees. If the
    lighting doesn't model your pet's form, the film won't record it.

  * Oh, yes. Your black-petted friends will probably need to abandon
    the camera's built-in flash. A flash with a head that can be
    rotated for bounce flash can be made to work. It will take some
    experimenting, though.

...and Tom Wagner added:

  * If you are taking flash photos, that is another problem for
    automatics.  My personal advice is do not take flash photos of
    pets.  Use a high speed film and whatever available light you
    have.  Because pets have better night vision you will get a lot of
    "Red Eyed Shots."

Jimmy also mentions the importance of lighting:

  * Check your lighting, and make sure that details of the dog's coat,
    eyes, etc. are large and visible.  That is, assuming you don't
    have off-camera flash equipment, position lamps and camera so that
    light is reflected off the glossy coat.  That way, the dog doesn't
    look flat without the other visual cues our mind supplies, but the
    camera doesn't.

Ellen McSorley's husband, Jonathan, who has experience photographing
dogs, evidently with better equipment than many of us have, notes that
even different *breeds* of black dogs offer different problems:

  * ... Labs have glossier fur than Newfs.  You've still got to have
    lots of light, so flash or spot metering is a must.  I think
    ideally I'd go for off-axis flash, or a diffuser, or maybe a flash
    umbrella, something to give lots of light but not from a bright
    point source which is going to reflect straight back into the
    camera.  That might make it look like the dog has Mylar
    (reflective plastic) bits in its coat (although that would be an
    interesting effect, and direct flash works on the Newfs because
    their coats aren't so glossy).

Jimmy also mentions that:

  * Some films are specifically color balanced for skin tones or
    bright colors or deep rich blacks and browns.  I don't have a
    recommendation off the top of my head which would be appropriate.
    You might find that Fuji Reala might be well suited, but then
    again, Kodak Gold II might be just as good at a fraction of the
    cost.  Ask your local photo supply store.

and Stephen Samuel reminds us that:

  * ... if you have a black dog and a white human in a picture with
    the same lighting, AT LEST ONE OF THEM is going to end up looking
    poorly lit.  Creative lighting is required.  [A classic suggestion
    is to put the human in the shade and the dog in the sun.]

BUT, no matter what you do with the lighting or the processing, it
seems from what many people say that eventually you are going to have
to deal with the fact that the automatic grey scale metering is thrown
off by a black (or white) dog who makes up the largest part of the
photo.

Tom Davis (who says his dogs are Golden, to match his carpet) offers a
suggestion for those with very automatic cameras:

  * I'd guess that if a black dog fills a significant amount of the
    frame, it will wind up over-exposed by quite a bit, so if your
    camera has exposure compensation, you can set it to under-expose
    to compensate.  Some cameras are totally automatic, so you're just
    out of luck.  If you don't have exposure compensation, you can
    sometimes lie to the camera about the film speed.  To make it
    under-expose, tell it you've got faster film.

  * For samoyeds and great pyrenees, do the opposite.  Well, at least for
    clean ones.

But for those ready to grapple with light metering, Marc Clarke suggests:

  * There are several different ways to get around this.  First, meter
    something that is actually 18% gray in the same light that falls
    on the black dog.  This gray card gives your meter something that
    actually *is* 18% gray.  The black dog will show up as black (not
    gray).  These gray cards are available in any photography store,
    usually in the book rack.  Second, use an incident light meter.
    These meters read the light that is falling onto the subject
    rather than the light reflecting off the subject.  They indicate
    the same exposure as a TTL camera's reflectance meter reading the
    light reflected off an 18% gray card.  You can fake a gray card by
    using your TTL cameras meter and metering the light falling onto
    your open hand, then opening up one more stop.  A hand (in fact,
    nearly all Caucasian skin) is about 1 stop brighter than an 18%
    gray card.

But Brian Segal points out that:

  * Your reflective meter will indeed want to show the dog as 18% grey if
    you simply rely on that reading.  If you want about 5 stops of exposure
    latitude, then meter the dog's fur and stop down 1.5 to 2.0 stops.  If
    you stop right down to dense black there will be no detail of the fur.

  * An incident reading will work more or less, but you really want a
    precise reading of the fur itself as it has its own reflective
    properties.

Dave Miller kind of summed it all up with:

  * UNDEREXPOSE BY TWO STOPS.  That's it.  Doesn't matter what camera
    you use.  All a camera is is a light tight box to hold film.
    [...]
    The meters (for the most part) all work the same way and try to
    give you an 18% grey which is about 2 stops brighter than most
    black dogs.  If the dog is brightly lit, then it might be only 1
    to 1.5 stops darker...

Well, there you have it.

Finally, Ty Monson gives the following (blunt, but probably correct)
advice in response to a question about stud services or breeders who
are photographing their dogs for the benefit of prospective clients:

  * Breeders ought to have a skilled photographer produce the photos
    for showing prospective clients. No business is represented well
    with amateurish snapshots.

Many thanks to the nice folks from rec.photo who offered their expertise
to us sentimental dog lovers, who never can seem to have too many photos
of our pets -- even when they do just look like large black blobs with
tongues!



F.  Record Keeping.

1.  Breeders

You should not rely on AKC to keep all your records straight.
Breeders MUST keep official records on their dogs.  There are numerous
fines listed in the back of the _Gazette_ for failure to maintain
proper records.  If you don't have your own record book, you should
start one.  If you are cited, you may have to start all over again
with new dogs.  That means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC
registrations.  The AKC screws up a lot of things.  That's why it is
so important that breeders keep good files for their own breed club's
use.

Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
markings, date of birth and litter number is added.  The breeder's
name(s) is also included.  On the litter registration form, the
information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.

When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
and phone number go into the proper places.  (You can order these
books from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding
Record" books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for
many dogs.)

2.  Titles

For titles and points, keep a small *bound* notebook (so that the
question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
Record obedience trials the same way.  You may want to have a folder
in which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
along with a few pictures of the dog.  You just need to have a record
of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
goof up.  Two records are better than one!

3.  Working dogs

Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
training and of actual cases.  Note date and time, individuals
involved in the training, the purpose of the training, how the
training session was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to
improve.  For an actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you
talked to, where you got the scent article or other applicable
information from, who was found/rescued/attacked, etc.  If you can, go
back and take pictures of the trail followed or other useful sites.
Keep training and actual case records separate.

If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
evidence is ruled admissible or not.  In contrast to the above for
titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
lawyers.

4.  Your personal enjoyment

Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
of their dog's progress in training.  In particular, it might help you
uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
training.


G.  Removing Odors and Stains.

1.  Urine

For fresh urine: clean the spot with any good carpet shampoo (Spot
Shot is one).  Then soak it with plain old club soda, leave it for
about ten minutes and blot it up.

If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.

To find spots if you're not sure where they are, get a UV lamp that
has the filter built in (to eliminate any remnant visible light).
Urine fluoresces in "black light."  You can get them at hardware
stores.  There are also UV lamps in hobby stores and places that cater
to spelunkers and rockhounds, but they're more expensive.  The UV
source is safe as long as you use the longwave lamp and not the
shortwave lamp used for tanning.

1.  Enzymatic products

Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800 number
on bottle); Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Outright!
(carpet, 214-438-0397); Resolve (carpet, perhaps other items); Odor
Mute (originally for deskunking dogs, has other applications, leaves
white residue, works on concrete, 507-642-8529).  Odor Abolish, by
Endosome Biologicals, may also be useful.  These products use enzymes
to break down the odor causing compounds in urine and feces, and are
quite effective.  From: [e-mail] {Doug Monroe)

When using enzymatic products, it is important to use freshly diluted
enzymes, let it soak in as deeply as the urine has penetrated, and
*keep the area warm and wet for 24 hours*.  Chemical reactions,
including enzymatic reactions, go faster at higher temperatures.
Unfortunately, most enzymatic reactions don't do well much over 102F
(38-39C)-- so not TOO hot.  Try covering the area with towels soaked
in plain water after applying the enzyme, then a shower curtain or
other plastic over that to make sure the area stays moist.

The enzymes in laundry products are reportedly the same as those in
the expensive odor-killing products, but they cost less than 1/3 as
much.  They work just as well.  Biz is one product.  You'll find it in
your grocery laundry section with the pre-soak laundry stuff.

Remember, you have to SOAK the area and then cover it to keep it from
drying out.  The smelly area must be WET with the enzyme for 24 hours
or more.

2.  Launderable items

On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
and no detergent, then wash again as usual.

3.  Concrete

If you have concrete (eg, in the basement) into which urine has been
soaked, this can be difficult to remove, as unsealed concrete is very
porous.  You will have to neutralize the urine and then seal the
concrete properly.  A specialty cleaning service is probably the best
way to properly neutralize the urine in the concrete.  Vinegars and
other cleaners may help, but only temporarily.  Odor Mute is reputed
to work on concrete.  Improving the ventilation may also help.  In
extreme cases, pouring another 1/4-1/2 inch layer of concrete over the
original concrete will solve the problem.

4.  Hardwood floors

Hardwood floors that have been stained with urine can be difficult to
clean.  First treat with an enzyme-based product such as Nature's
Miracle to remove the odor.  You can find wood bleaches and stains at
your hardware store: you may want to consult with one of the employees
on what is available.  You will need to remove any varnish or
polyurethane from the area, sand it down a bit, bleach and/or stain
it, and then apply the protective coat.  There are also professional
companies you can consult.  In severely stained cases, you may have to
replace the wood.

5.  Yard

For your yard, gypsum is supposed to help lawns cope with urine.
This is found in Jerry Baker's _Plants are Still Like People_.

2.  Skunks

The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
and don't let the dog spread the oil around.  Also, the skunk smell
seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.

To get rid of the smell - try vinegar diluted with water.  Douches
work (they contain vinegar), but the perfumes may irritate some dogs'
skin.  Massengill in particular is often highly recommended. Soap the
skunked areas, then apply the vinegar - let it sit a little while, and
then soap again.  Don't get the vinegar in the dog's eyes.  Try also:
diluted lemon juice and a dishwashing detergent (Dawn is generally
recommended) to cut the grease.

There is a product available called SKUNK OFF.

If your dog's been thoroughly sprayed, don't expect to get all the
smell out with a bath but what smell is left will go away faster.

3.  Saliva

The watery, tasteless liquid mixture of salivary and oral mucous gland
secretions that lubricates chewed food, moistens oral walls, and
contains enzymes that function in the predigestion of starches.

The enzymes are the potent operatives here that leave semi-permanent
slime trails on clothes, ceilings, walls, and table tops, depending on
your breed.  Removal of high-powered slobber, especially from
polyesters and blends, can be a problem.  For washable fabrics, the
cheapest pre-wash treatment is Accent meat tenderizer liberally
sprinkled on the the slobber spots (wet the spots or whole garment
before applying the Accent). Let it soak for a few minutes, then wash
as usual with laundry detergent.


H.  Separation Anxiety.

Some dogs may cry and whine when you leave.  Most get over it in time.
You can minimize it by not making a big deal of leaving; say good-bye,
give him a treat, and walk out.  You can probably condition your dog
to accept it better by leaving for short errands and coming back soon,
possibly over the weekend when you don't have to work.

Go ahead and crate the dog while you're gone (provided it's been
crate-trained, of course).  A crate can help your dog feel more secure
in its own personal space where it can't get into trouble.


I.  Travel and International Travel.

You can often take your dog with you when you travel.  There are some
helpful books out there that list which hotels, motels, etc. accept
dogs.  These include

_Touring with Towser_, Quaker foods, publisher.  Editions put out
every other year.  Write to 585 Hawthorne Court, Galesburg IL 61401
with a check or money order for $3 made out to Quaker Professional
Services.  64 page directory.

_Pets Allowed_.  A directory of places to stay nation (USA) wide.  $10
from Modern Systems Computing, 9 Greenmeadow Dr. #FD, N. Billerica, MA
01862-1921.

_Take Your Pet USA: A Guide of Accommodations for Pets and Their
Owners_.  Artco Publishing, 1990, 446 pages, ISBN 0-9626885-0-9,
$9.95.  It lists the address, phone number, any pet restrictions, if
there's an exercise area for pets, if pet can be left unattended in
room, local attractions, lodging rates and a few local vet offices.

_Travelling with Your Pet_.  Described as "a cross-Canada directory of
hotels and motels that welcome pets," it's also full of helpful tips
on what to do when travelling with a pet. The guide is updated
annually. The price is $6.95 (CND) plus tax. Write to: Travelling with
Your Pet 43 Railside Road Don Mills Ontario, Canada M3A 3L9.  You can
call them (from Canada) at 416-441-3228 or send them a fax at
416-441-3212.

*********************************************************************
By the way: BE SURE TO CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG!  Especially when
travelling -- many hotels begin to refuse dogs after continually
finding dog feces all over their lawns, etc afterwards.  Get a
pooper-scooper or a plain plastic bag and clean up after your pooch!
Those following you afterwards will thank you.
*********************************************************************

1.  Car

Most dogs love travelling in the car.  Some are fearful, others are
prone to carsickness.  Any dog travelling in a car should be
restrained in some manner, both for its safety and yours.  Dogs can
travel in carriers, probably the best option.  There are available
barriers which can keep your dog in the back seat (this works
especially well with station wagon type of cars).  There are
restraining leashes available.  Riding in the back of a truck is just
asking for trouble, as the dog will almost always be killed if it is
thrown from the truck in even a minor accident.  There are also
restraining leashes for dogs in open pick-up truck beds.  Some states
have laws against dogs riding in the back of a pick-up.

1.1. Car sickness, fear

Try just sitting in the back seat and just talking and playing with
your dog, assure it over a few of these sitting-in sessions that there
is nothing to be afraid of.  Then do a couple of slow trips, just
around the block, no more. Then to the local park or beach, so your
dog starts to get the idea that car trips lead to "fun" places too.
Finally, try slowing down some more for those corners since side to
side movements in a car are the most common cause of motion sickness.
Opening a window or turning on the car fan may help some dogs.

Do *not* sympathize with the dog or try to soothe it.  While
car-sickness isn't quite the same as being afraid of riding in the
car, it could conceivably be brought on by such a fear.  If that is
the case, doing *anything* that the pup can possibly interpret as
praise can be counterproductive.  It will teach it that this fear is
the desired behavior.  If the car sickness if brought on by such fear
and it is, inadavertantly, taught that the fear is desired behavior,
the car sickness will continue.

2.  Plane

The May/June, 1990 issue of Golden Retriever News (published by the
Golden Retriever Club of America) had an article on airline
transportation of dogs.  Many of the comments should be common sense
-- such as having the proper crates and bedding, choosing non-stop
flights where possible, allowing plenty of check-in time, etc.  The
article goes on to say that the ratings are based on serious problems
reported between July 1988 and July 1989, and that air travel is
generally safe for animals, with a mortality rate of less than one
tenth of one percent.

One pet is allowed in each cabin.  Thus, if there is one First Class,
one Business class and one Tourist class cabin, three pets are
allowed.  This can be modified if the pets are house mates - two
people who are traveling with their two pets, then the pets can be in
the same cabin.  A cabin is a section that can be closed off from view
from the other sections either with a door or a curtain.

As for specific airlines: USAir has one of the best reputations in
shipping animals.  They routinely check up on the animals, and ask the
owners to call a specific number after each landing the plane makes to
contact an individual who can check on the animals.  Continental has
the worst reputation, having had several dogs die in their planes.  A
particularly horrible incident in the summer of 1991 involved five
samoyeds, three of whom died of heat prostration despite the pleas of
the passengers and owners, who could hear the dogs barking in the
cargo area.  Other airlines have varying reputations.  In general a
direct flight is safest.

There is a pamphlet from Northwest Airlines called "Priority Pet."  It
explains Northwest's methods of pet transport --- it was encouraging
to see an airline show explicit concern for this issue.  Northwest
asks owners to attach two bowls and a supply of food to the outside of
the kennel in order that the animal may be fed and watered (presumably
by Northwest personnel).  The caveats and conditions are enlightening
to read.

Other references: The _Conde' Nast Traveler_ (June 1992) has an
article on pets and planes, including information on which carriers
have been fined for violations of animal transportation laws.

Tips when travelling by plane:

  * Buy flight insurance.  It's not much if something actually happens
    to your dog, but stay away from airlines that won't insure their
    own transportation of animals!  Cost is typically $20 for $5000
    coverage.
  * Some airlines are more highly recommended than others.  Delta is
    frequently praised, Continental frequently condemned.  Whichever
    airline you use, always arrange a direct flight.
  * Many airlines will sell you crates for extremely good prices.  If
    you need a crate, buy one here.
  * Get all vaccinations up to date two weeks before the flight, and
    take the records with you if you're also going.  Otherwise, add
    your vet's name and phone number to the information on the crate.
    Parvo boosters and "kennel cough" (bordetella) vaccinations are
    especially recommended.
  * Make reservations early.  Most planes have room for three dogs
    or less per flight.
  * Write your name and phone number on the crate with a permanent
    marker.  Attached paper is frequently gone by the time the crate
    arrives.  Also write name and phone number of person to contact
    upon arrival on a piece of duct tape on the crate.
  * Solid plastic or metal crates are preferable to the wire crates.
    They keep more things out of the crate than the wire ones do.
    Make sure there is a rim around the edge that prevents adjacent
    boxes from covering up the air holes.

3.  International Travel.

1.  Paperwork

Most states/provinces/regions require a health certificate and proof
of rabies vaccination for pets crossing boundary lines.  Most airlines
will require this regardless of where you go within the country.  Any
dog that is travelling somewhere else should have a copy of its
medical history, especially its vaccinations with it.

4.  Quarantines

  a. Britain

  A 6 month quarantine for all animals.

  b.  Hawaii  (prepared by Carol Newby <[e-mail]>)

  Because Hawaii is a rabies free state, there is a mandatory 120 day
  quarantine for dogs, cats, and other carnivorous animals.  The
  information below is compiled from the information package that is
  available from the Animal Quarantine Station (AQS).  To request
  further information please write or call:

     State of Hawaii                    FAX: [phone]
     Dept of Agriculture                PHONE: [phone]
     Animal Quarantine Station
     99-951 Halawa Valley Street
     Aiea, Hawaii  96701-3246

  The AQS facility is for animals moving to Hawaii, as well as animals
  en route to other locations and having a layover in Hawaii.  Animals
  are picked up from the airport holding facility at Honolulu
  International Airport and are transported to the facility by staff
  members of the AQS.  In the event the animal is only traveling
  through Hawaii, you must call the facility 72-hours ahead of the
  animals expected arrival so that arrangements can be made for pickup
  from and return to the airport holding facility.

  EXCEPTIONS: "Those animals entering Hawaii on direct flights from
  Australia, New Zealand, and the British Isles may be exempt from the
  120 day rabies quarantine after meeting pre-shipment requirements.
  These areas are rabies free and have quarantine programs that are
  equal to, or are more stringent than Hawaii's." "Guide dogs, special
  purpose animals, and those animals under continuous veterinary care
  are required to comply with Hawaii's law."

  PREPARING FOR YOUR PET'S MOVE: There is an extensive list of
  pre-shipment requirements that must be met in order for your pet to
  be allowed into Hawaii.  The list of required vaccinations and
  examinations is available from the AQS.  It is suggested that all
  required vaccines be administered at least 14 days prior to the
  animal's arrival in Hawaii.  In addition, there is an Owner's
  Statement that must be filled out and returned to the AQS "at least
  45 days prior to your pet's transport to Hawaii."

  COST: The cost of the quarantine for a dog is about $620.00 for the
  120 day period.  This includes the $20.00 registration fee and the
  daily fee of $5.00 (total $600.00).  There are a number of related
  fees that may or may not apply to you, depending on your situation.
  A fee schedule is included in the information packet.

  SPONSORS: If you will not be available to care for your dog while it
  is in quarantine, a number of businesses can be contracted to act as
  your pet's sponsor.  The sponsor has the same rights/privileges as
  the animal's owner.  The sponsor may act on your behalf to arrange
  grooming, approve medical care, have prescriptions filled, and other
  required care.  Sponsors and all other visitors must be registered
  with the AQS by you, the owner, before they will be allowed into the
  station.

  MEDICAL CARE: Upon entry all animals are given an examination by the
  station veterinarian, and are tested for heartworms and other
  internal parasites.  You will be notified of all test results.  If
  the heartworm test is negative, you or the sponsor will be given a
  prescription for preventative medication that can be filled with a
  local veterinarian.  The medication can be administered by the
  staff, but there will be a small fee.  "You are responsible for your
  pet's health while in quarantine.  Owners must register with an
  approved [animal] hospital."  The AQS provides a list of approved
  hospitals in the information packet.  In the event of serious
  illness while in quarantine, your pet will be transported to your
  selected animal hospital by "qualified personnel for a nominal
  charge."

  ACCOMMODATIONS: All animals are kept in temporary kennels for the
  first 21 days of quarantine as this is the most crucial time for
  detection of rabies. After the initial three week period, the animal
  will be moved to a permanent kennel.  The kennels are cleaned daily
  and disinfected regularly.  The size of the kennel depends on the
  size of the dog. Kennel sizes are six feet wide and range from 14
  feet to 26 feet in length.  Each run has a sheltered area.

  c. North America:

  Canada has a 4 month quarantine, except from the US, where rabies
  vaccination documentation is sufficient.

  d. South America:

  No quarantines, but the animal must be up-to-date on vaccinations.

  e.  Europe:

  Sweden has a four month quarantine; Finland has a quarantine of 3
  [?] months.  Most European countries do not have a quarantine or
  only require proof of vaccinations.

  f.  Australia:

  Dogs from New Zealand may freely enter Australia (but not from other
  pacific islands).  Dogs from Ireland or Britain may enter after a 2
  month quarantine.  All other animals must do six months of
  quarantine in Hawaii or UK, a month out, and then 2 months in
  Australia.

5.  Shipping

You may find yourself shipping a dog, for various reasons.  Most
people simply ship them as cargo on an airline.  This works best when
the flight is a non-stop, and neither the start- or end-point is at
risk of too high or too low temperatures.  There is at least one
company that ships dogs.  This is

Pet Transfer
(world wide door to door pet moving service)
714-660-9390 (USA)
[There may be an 800 , but I do not have it.]


J.  Vicious Dogs.

Interestingly, up until World War II, Pit Bulls were looked upon with
favor and patriotism.  They were sturdy and loyal companions.  WWI
propoganda depicts the Pit Bull as manifesting American virtues.  For
example one poster showed a Pit Bull with other dogs representing
their country of origin and the caption saying "Independent, but not
afraid of any of them."  At the same time, the Collie was considered
an unreliable dog that would attack people without provocation.

In many cases the reasons given for the "viciousness" of some breed
are racist or classist and ludicrous to those who know dogs and follow
the reports. The German Shepherd was vicious because of it's overly
inbred purity (read German Uber-mench theory). In Germany the Doberman
was vicious because it was impure (read tainted with non-Aryan dog
genes, whatever they are...).

What dog-knowers will tell you that human-aggressiveness and
dog-aggressiveness are totally different, and that, for example, dogs
bred to fight in fact had to be owner-safe in the most intense
situations where an owner needed to break two fighters apart.

Regarding attempts to ban certain breeds as "vicious," it should be
noted that the fault is not with the dog or the breed of the dog.
Unfortunately, certain breeds are perceived to be aggressive and
vicious.  People pick up these types of dogs and encourage them to be
aggressive and vicious.  The result is a badly-trained dog that has
been taught to fear people.  In addition, other people start breeding
these dogs with poor temperament and the cycle continues.  But it is
important to remember that the viciousness comes with poor training
and teasing of the dog and poor breeding practices.  Thus, penalties
should focus on individuals who display irresponsibility in the
handling of their dog and on those breeders who breed with poor
temperament, rather than on an entire breed.

References:

Hearn, Vicki.  _Bandit: The Dossier Of A Dangerous Dog_.


K.  Waste Composting.

Are there sanitary and effective alternatives to shoveling feces from
your backyard into your trashcan?  Especially if you have multiple
dogs?

There are a number of products on the market, such as the "Doggy
Dooly", "'Liminate", etc.  Reported experiences vary widely.  Some
were satisfied, others could not get them to work.

The basic premise is to set up a "composting pile" that, with added
enzymes, will decompose into odorless liquid and gas wastes.  Some are
elaborate affairs that require you to dig a large pit lined with
gravel and bury a container (with the lid at ground level) over the
gravel that drains the decomposed and harmless waste into the soil
below.  Others are simplar plastic bucket affairs.

Pros:
  * Feces don't sit in the garbage all week.
  * Don't need extra bags in cleaning stools up.

Cons:
  * Composters rarely work in winters with below or near freezing
    temperatures.
  * Despite claims of "odorless waste products", the feces in there
    can smell quite badly until fully decomposed.
  * Rocks and sticks can interfere with digestion.
  * Usually the amount of enzyme to add is fussy: it won't work well
    with *either* too much or too little added.


L.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.

First, note that there is a group in the ALT hierarchy called
alt.wolves.  There, you can read firsthand experiences of hybrid
owners, and discuss other issues involving wolves and hybrids in
general.

1.  Wolves

Wolves are very different from canines, but they do share a common
ancestry.  Wolves can be fascinating to study -- and observation of
wolves' social structure and behavior shed much insight into canine
behavior.

Resources and References:

Wolf Park is an organization whose mission is to conduct behavioral
research to obtain a better understanding of wolves in captivity and
in the wild, to disseminate scientific information and improve captive
animal management techniques, and to educate the general public to
gain a compassionate and realistic understanding of wolves and
ecology.  Wolf Park is supported through memberships and donations.
Benefits include free admission to the park for one year, Wolf Park
News and Journal of Wolf Ethology, and discounts on books from the
bookstore.  Behavior seminars directed by Dr. Erich Klinghammer are
offered.  There is an Adopt-A-Wolf program as well.  Note that they do
not deal with wolf-hybrids: many people attempt to donate their WH's
and they do not accept them.  Their position is that wolf-hybrids are
a bad idea and a detriment to wolves and the Park's mission.  They
will provide information about hybrids to those that ask.

Address: Wolf Park, Battle Ground, IN 47920.  Phone: [phone].

Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_.  University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
384 pgs Softcover.  ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
  Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
  David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
  informative and well written book.

Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_.  Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
  Description of wolves and their relationship with humans.  Not
  really a technical discussion of wolves like the first reference.

Crisler, Lois.  _Arctic Wild_. New York, Harper. 1958.

Mowat, Farley.  _Never Cry Wolf_.  Boston, Little, Brown. 1963.

The Wolf Society of Great Britain produces the flyer "The Howler."
Prospect House
Charlton
Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN


2.  Wolf-Hybrids

**********************************************************************
FAQ author's note:  I disclaim *any* responsibility in the event you
get a wolf-hybrid.  It is my personal recommendation that you not get
one.  What follows is for informational purposes only and is presented
here only because it is a controversial topic that comes up every now
and then on this group.  I have attempted to make a fair presentation,
and have included resources for further information.
                                                  --Cindy Tittle Moore
**********************************************************************

Anyone who is interested in getting a wolf-hybrid should obtain as
much information about the animals *before* considering getting one.
WH's are not casual pets and do not behave like dogs do.  Most WH
experts recommend that you spend some time around WH's to be sure of
what you are getting into.  Wolf Country and other places offer
programs where people can help care for WH's and learn first hand
about them.  There are also seminars and organizations to help
disseminate the information a WH owner needs.  **DO NOT EVEN
*CONSIDER* GETTING A WOLF-HYBRID BEFORE GETTING THIS INFORMATION AND
EDUCATION!**

What follows below is a thumbnail sketch of the sorts of problems with
wolf-hybrids, along with resources for more complete information.

Legality: Because of various state and federal laws regarding wildlife
and endangered species, wolf-hybrids are simply illegal.  As of 1991,
they were illegal in ten states, and an additional nine required Fish
& Game permits, especially if the hybrid was at least 75% wolf.  A lot
of states don't quite know what to do with hybrids and have thus
included such terminology in defining hybrids as "wolf-like
characteristics."  Even when legal, they face much prejudice, and a WH
that runs afoul of the law (by trespassing, biting, etc) is much more
likely to be destroyed than a dog doing the same.

In addition, such a WH will generate negative publicity for wolves.
Reinforcing negative images of wolves in the public's mind and giving
ammunition to the ranching industry to produce more anti-wolf
propoganda directly hampers the wolf's reintroduction into the wild.
Unfair as it is, the general public will think "wolf" when
"wolf-hybrid" comes up, and the ranching industry has long had an
interest in completely eliminating wolves and will use this prejudice.

Behavior: Although there are exceptions, most WH's do NOT act like
domesticated dogs, Jack London's romantic stories notwithstanding.
Dogs are the result of thousands of years of genetic selection for
those attributes that are desired by man.  The wolf, on the other
hand, has been selected to be a survivor.  Most suffer from a fear,
or at least a nervousness, of being around people and are very timid
until something happens to go against their instincts. The pack
instinct is very strong. They will only obey their owner if they feel
he is the dominant dog in the pack, so obviously, he needs to know A
LOT about wolfpacks to stay ahead of the game.  Also, hybrids don't
always automatically assume that the "master" will remain the master,
resulting in testing the owner for dominance, which can take the forms
of attacking or defensive fighting.

Predicting behavior: The percentage of wolf in the hybrid's background
will not accurately predict its behavior.  Some hybrids with low
percentages are nervous and skittish, others with high percentages are
more stable and reliable.  Looking at the pup's parents may give some
indication, but then it may not.  A good deal will depend on how well
socialized the animal is, that is, how much work its owner puts into
it.  Remember, WH's are NOT a breed, there is absolutely no
consistency in their breeding.  Not only does the percentage of wolf
background vary, but the dogs used in the crosses also vary, although
they are commonly Malamutes and Huskies.  Also, since they are not
bred for any particular purpose and there are a number of backyard
breeders of WH's, this contributes to their uncertain temperament.
Because WH are so much more work than average dogs, and because the
*potential* is there for the WH to be more prone to what is deemed
anti-social behavior in domesticated dogs, the problem is amplified.

Around people: WH's, as with any large or excitable animal, should
NEVER be allowed access to small children, unless they are on a leash
and strictly watched for signs of aggression.  If a child trips and
falls, or gets knocked down by the big furry "dog", or worse yet,
teases the "dog", a mauling can easily result.  Hybrids need to be
watched around strangers because they may back bite.  Not all WH's
react this way, but a hybrid owner cannot afford to take any chances.
Again, because of negative public perception, the hybrid will likely
be destroyed as a result of such an incident, and its behavior only
reinforce the negative perception.  In addition, it will further
damage the reputation of wolves, making reintroduction that much
harder, and damage the reputation of the dogs the wolves are bred to,
usually Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes.

Training: Many respondents emphasized that WH's can be trained, but
NOT TRUSTED without their owners nearby.  Most obedience clubs will
not even allow wolf hybrids in classes.  Wolf Country, a breeder near
Anchorage, strongly recommends potential owners work around the
animals for at least a year in order to see if they can handle them
and do want one.  Apparently they socialize quite differently from
dogs, and can differ in their response to discipline.  The normal
methods used on dogs may or may not work on a hybrid.  Because of all
this, you will need WH support groups of some form nearby to help you
with potential training problems.

Housing: YOU DO NOT (repeat NOT) PUT A HYBRID ON A CHAIN IN THE BACK
YARD!  You need to build an enclosure of at least 10000 square feet to
allow it to explore.  Also it must be fenced with at least 7' high and
an overhang.  Not only that, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a
gate to your back yard to prevent children from wandering out there,
because if you stick something into its area, it will try to pull it
through, regardless of whether it is living or just a stick.  Some of
these animals are so strongly destructive that they can not be let in
the house, and will destroy any house you make for them.

Health: Most medicines for dogs do not work or are unapproved for use
on hybrids and as a result hybrids may have a harder time getting over
kennel cough, parvo, distemper, etc.  In Indiana, for example, it is
illegal to vaccinate a wild animal (including hybrids).

In particular, there is NO vaccine that is approved for use on the
hybrids and that includes rabies.  They *can* be vaccinated but if
they bite someone they are considered by law to be unvaccinated.  This
means if they bite someone, they must be destroyed, with the head
sent to a laboratory to test for the presence of rabies.

Resources:

The Wolf Hybrid Times (WHT) is packed full of information: complete
with many long series on topics such as nuitrition, containment,
medical information, current legal status and issues, research, wolves
in literature, photos and seasoned, practical advice from owners,
breeders and scientists.  Add to this commercial advertising
specifically geared to wolf and wolf hybrid owners plus regular
updates and activities from the various organizations.  Subscription
rate is $22.00 per year; please add $4.00 outside the U.S.  Published
bi-monthly.  Address is: WHT, P.O.  Box 1423, Gallup, NM 87305.

The National Wolf Hybrid Association is dedicated to responsible care
and understanding of the wolf hybrid.  Membership fees are $25.00
yearly which includes a bi-monthly newsletter.  Address: Rt. 1 Box 163
Chapmansboro, TN 37035.  Phone: [phone].

Donald H. Ashford, Treasurer            Collen Schabacker
National Wolf Hybrid Association        2375 Honeysuckle Lane
2926 Bent Creek Road,                Hartsville, TN 37074
Russellville, TN 37860

The following was taken from the Instructions and Requirements of the
Registration Application.

NWHA accepted dog breeds are: Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute,
Samoyed, and accepted strains of German Shepherd.  Breeds of Dogs with
an aggressive nature that would take away from the temperament of the
wolf are not allowed and will not be registered such as: (Pit Bull,
Doberman, Rottweilers, etc..).  Breeds of dogs that take away the
appearance of the wolf are not allowed and will not be registered.

NWHA will register 25% and below precentage.

NWHA reserves the right to refuse to register any wolf hybrid that
does not meet the assocation's standards.

NWHA reserves the right to correct or revoke, for cause, any
registration certificate issued.  Any misrepresentation and/or
violation of integrity on the application is grounds for revocation
and may result in the loss of any or all NWHA privileges.

The purpose of the registry is to bring the wolf/dog cross to
perfection by quality breeding for temperament, intelligence,
conformation and wolf-like appearance.

It is understood that all should work actively to eleminate the
promotion of poor breeding practices and operations.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1992, 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.  This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]           USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
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