ocr: BY PRIIT J. VESILIND NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SENIOR WXTTER grad PHOTOGRAPHS BY - - - DENNIS CHAMBERLIN - Trying to picture the way theywere, German tourists getal hand from local historian Ivan Makeer during a stop in Yasnaya Polyana, a village in the Russian Oblast of Kaliningrad on the Baltic Sea. It was variously a land ofTeutonic Knights, Prussian kings, and, after 1933, Nazi soldiers. When the Soviet Army stormed in, Germans who didn'tflee were deported. Some 50 years later the Germans are back, looking for pieces oftheir past- andof themselves- -and finding Russians searching for the RATMER ...
