ocr: By RICK GORE SENIOR ASSISTANT EDITOR Photographs by KENNETH GARRETT Art by JOHN SIBBICK NTHE SMALL PORT of Padangbai on the island of Bali a ferryboat called the Nusa Penida sits low in the water, loading passengers for a 40-mile trip to the neigh- boring island of Lombok. Scabs of rust stain the boat's white hull, and workers yelling in languages I don't understand toss buckets of slop from the squalid decks: No pleasure boat, the Nusa Penida conjures up those one-paragraph stories I recall reading in newspapers back home: "Indonesian Ferry Sinks; 400 Eaten by Sharks." - Fuming cars and truck ...