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Porto Alegre

Sunday, July 13

Location: Nova Brescia, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil

Today's weather: 20░C, Sunny

This morning we got up early, about 6am. After several days of travelling and getting used to different time zones, getting up was very difficult for me.

After breakfast and packing our bags, Susi and I drove over to Marli and Camilla’s apartment block. Because their apartment is also protected by high fences, we had to push a button on an intercom panel by the gate to announce ourselves. After a couple minutes, Camilla came skipping out the apartment building door, clutching her pink schoolbag, with Marli following not far behind her. Today we were all going on a trip into the countryside to visit a place called Nova Brescia, and the farm were Susi and Marli were born. This is where Susi’s mother and brother still live.

The drive from Porto Alegre to Nova Brescia was interesting. The area around the city has been settled since 1755, so it is very developed. Jungles of trees have long since given way to jungles of power pylons, and big ships routinely travel up and down the rivers carrying cargo to and from factories. There are many trucks on the highways also carrying big cargoes. In some ways the countryside is similar to New Zealand, but not as green. The Brazilian state of Rio Grande do Sul is gaucho country. Gauchos are famous South American cowboys who farmed the cattle ranches of Southern Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina. This means that the only farm animal you see in the fields are cattle – although there aren’t as many as on New Zealand farms. These animals are more fierce looking than NZ cattle because they are bigger and have horns – just like the cattle in American cowboy movies and rodeos. There are no sheep.

Susi’s driving is a little scary. Although she is only travelling at 100 km/h, the roads are rougher than in NZ, and she regularly zips in and out among the other cars and big trucks. Cars often pass each other within the same lane or driving partially in the other lane even though there are cars coming towards them. Brazilian drivers are used to this and frequently make it easier for the drivers who want to pass – they are more courteous than most drivers in New Zealand. Even though the roads only have two lanes, the lanes are very wide so that two cars can fit side by side if necessary. Susi even passed a police car at high speed – but everyone does, and the police rarely do anything. Sometimes when we passed a police station I saw a small pile of crashed cars from recent road accidents. Each year, 80,000 people die from car accidents in Brazil.

It took two and a half hours to reach Susi’s mother’s house in Nova Brescia. Because Susi’s mother lives in a remote area where the roads are unpaved. The roads are dirt tracks which can become slippery and muddy in the rain – but fortunately today was warm and sunny so that they were easy enough to travel. Susi’s mother’s house is very simple and lightly built with thin wooden walls – but it is comfortable. There is a small porch, and a basement below the house which serves as a workshop and storage area. Most importantly, the house has electricity and plumbing. The floors are polished wooden planks.

Here we sat and chatted for a while before being served lunch Most of the conversation was in Portuguese, so I tried very hard to understand what everyone else was saying. I was able to say a few things, and Susi helped me when I had difficulties.

Lunch was beef and chicken barbecued on long skewers in a brick oven (built into the house), served with a potato salad, lettuce salad, and rice. We also tried some home-made wine – but it wasn’t very good. The people in this part of Brazil are descended from German and Italian immigrants who arrived from Europe early this century. Many people still keep their old traditions, and some even still speak in Italian or German (although they have Brazilian accents).

After lunch, we took Mario (Susi’s brother) to the local football clubrooms where he played soccer with his local team.. Other people in the clubrooms were playing cards, talking, and smoking home-made cigarettes which looked like sticks of wood. We watched the soccer game for a while, but then some of us wandered off up the road to explore the small town. Camilla made friends with a local girl called Bruna, so we took them to play in a local schoolyard. There were many mandarin trees producing fruit, so we picked fruit from trees in the schoolyard for a quick snack.

Dinner that night was a simple meal with small pieces of fish coated in flour then deep fried so that they were crispy and golden brown. We watched the small black and white television and chatted some more before going to bed.

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