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Manaus

Friday, August 22

Location: Manaus, Brazil

Today's weather: 27░C.

This morning I woke up at 9am, still feeling tired from all my travelling the day before. I was also still feeling sick, so eating was difficult. But I wandered into town and stopped off at Sucos dos Skinas for a Suco (juice) de Guarana. Sucos dos Skinas make the best juices in all of Manaus (and anywhere else) – their Guarana with lemon (and without honey) is the most delicious drink that I've tasted anywhere. Guarana has lots of caffeine (which helped wake me up), and is reputed to have many other medicinal properties – I swear I felt much better afterwards. I then went around the corner where I got a very thorough haircut for just R$ 4.

At 11:30am I stopped off at Lojas Americana, a shop where my friend Maria works. I stopped by to say hello and to give her a few small things that I'd bought in Peru. We talked a little, and made arrangements to go dancing in the evening, along with her friend Marlφ. I then went shopping to buy my ticket for the riverboat to SantarΘm, and various things that I thought I would need for my journey – film, shorts, a pair of jandals, fruit and other food, and a big packet of sweets which is always useful for sharing with the local kids. Compared to Peru, Manaus is very hot – my clothes were drenched in sweat within just a few minutes walking around.

The riverboat office in Manaus is basically just a simple shed containing lots of small stalls with vendors selling tickets. Since there are lots of boats travelling to the same place, the salespeople are very competitive – and seem to pounce on any potential customer as soon as they walk in the door.

"Where do you want to go?", one of them yelled out in Portuguese.

"SantarΘm." I replied. And instantly, there were two salespeople gathered around me, arguing with each other to sell me tickets! I bought a ticket costing R$ 30.

I then returned to the hotel, where I had a cold shower then spent a few hours working to improve my Portuguese from a book that I brought with me. Studying in the heat was difficult in the heat, and I soon fell asleep. I went for another walk in town in the early evening, and then went to meet Maria outside her work at 8:30pm.

Maria was standing near the doorway of her work. We chatted for a few minutes, then wandered down to the bus stop at the end of the street. We caught a bus back to the suburb where Maria still lives with her mother and two brothers (most people in South America live with their family until well-after adulthood. They usually only leave home when they get married and are ready to have a family of their own). Maria's oldest brother, Donald, was very interesting – he is trying to learn English so dragged out his English language book and tried to manage a conversation by looking up words. The resulting conversation was very slow, and sometimes a little strange – his English was even worse than my Portuguese! Part way through the conversation he uttered "Jesus will return!" – I wasn't sure what to make of this, so just nodded my head and smiled. Maria's youngest brother amused himself playing video games on the family's nintendo.

Maria's house was simple by New Zealand standards – but it looked well-kept and very comfortable. The good thing about living in Amazonia is that the weather is always fine and warm, so houses can be constructed much more simply and cheaply than in New Zealand.

After chatting with Maria's family for about an hour and a half, Maria's friend Marlφ arrived. Marlφ had a car, and had offered to take Maria and I off to a nearby club where we could go dancing bolero. The club was full of couples and groups of friends. Most of them were extremely good dancers – making me feel self-conscious about my "two left feet". But my dancing seems to be improving, and Maria is a very patient teacher.

While we were dancing, the strap on Maria's watch broke so that it was lost somewhere on the dancefloor. We didn't notice until afterwards when we saw her watch was missing. Maria, Marlφ, and I spent a while searching for the watch and asking around – but couldn't find it.

I think the long day (and night) of travelling the day before took its toll – I kept dozing off, despite my best efforts to stay awake. Maria and Marlφ both kindly took pity on me, returning me back to the hotel at the early hour (for Brazilians) of 1am. The return trip was a little strange. My hotel was in the "worst" part of town and Marlφ was obviously nervous about driving through the dark streets nearby – making sure that the car windows were wound up and the car doors were locked. Fortunately the trip was without incident. We got there, and I slowly staggered past the hotel desk and up to my room, feeling very exhausted.

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