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1994-12-20
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Here's the summary of how to hook up the PG to a PC that I promised I'd
post.
Included:
1. How to hook them up using an external power source
A. parts and aprox cost
B. circuit diagram
2. How to hook them up using power from the PC
A. parts and aprox cost
B. circuit diagram
Not Included:
1. Required software information
maybe a second document when I get that far, unless someone
else wants to write it up before I start asking a bunch of
questions again - any volunteers? :-) Wouldn't it be nice
if we clearly documented our work so that newcomers could
quickly and easily be brought up to speed without having to
take up a lot of everyone's time and net bandwidth?
Obligatory Disclaimer:
I am not an electronics expert of any kind. I don't understand most of
what is included in this summary. This is only a summary of replies I
got to several questions I asked on this particular topic as well as some
information obtained from an article in Byte (July, 1990). I assume no
responsibility for anything that happens if you attempt to use any of the
information in this post. I don't care if you distribute, alter, copy,
etc anything in this post. It would be nice though if you made your
additions, alterations, comments, etc available to the glove mailing list
at glove-list@karazm.math.uh.edu. Also, the contents of this post do
not reflect any opinions other than my own, especially GE's.
Introduction
There may be many ways to hook a PowerGlove to a PC/clone. The following
discussion describes two possibilities. I used the first method and it
seems to work. A number of others have reported using the second method
which is simpler and apparently works just as well. There may be errors
in the methods, but I've tried to faithfully reproduce what I've done and
what has been reported by others.
The second method is the easier and cheaper of the two. However, it
requires you to use another port on your PC (in addition to the printer
port that both methods require) or tapping unused power and ground
lines somewhere in your PC. That's no big deal if you know what you're
doing and have an extra port or power source to tap.
The first method requires no PC modifications. It only uses the printer
port. However, it requires an external 5v power supply. The discussion
in that method assumes you have a power supply, but that it isn't 5v.
The aproximate prices shown are about what I paid at my local Radio
Shack, execept for the glove and extension cable. You might be able
to beat these prices by shopping around or rummaging through your
basement.
1. Hooking them together using an external power supply
Needed:
Nintendo PowerGlove
US$20-50
power supply (ac/dc, battery pack, etc) that produces in the
range of 7 - 9 volts at around 300mA
I bought one with adjustable settings at Radio Shack
for about $13. I use the 7.5v setting. You might be
able to get by with a 6v source, but the 7805 regulator
might not produce a steady 5v unless you give it at
least 7v. You might be able to get by OK with 9v or
12v, but you may need a heat sink at higher voltages.
(2) 0.1 mF capacitors
less than US$1 for ceramic
7805 +5vdc voltage regulator
about US$1.25
DB25 connector and cover
about US$3.50
heat shrink tubing and/or electrical tape
soldering iron, heat sink, and solder
wire
Optional
extension cable for the PowerGlove
A package of two Curtis Super Extendo cables costs just
under US$10. The only reason to get these is so that
you can modify an extension cable instead of the one
attached directly to the glove hardware. They also give
you some extra length, if that matters. I think Nintendo
makes extension cables, too, but I don't know what they
cost.
2 female and 1 male connector
My power supply had 1/8" (3.5mm) male phone jack connector
on it. I mounted a female connector on a small box to
plug the power supply into. I also used a pair of the
connectors at the output side of the box so I could
disconnect the box easily from the modified glove cable.
I didn't want to chop up the power supply's cable, so
the first connector seems like a good idea. The others
are completely unnecessary. I only used this type of
connector because my power supply came with one. The
connectors cost me about US$3.00.
box to house completed circuit
Mine cost about US$1.75.
The circuit:
box
+----------------------------+
+-----------+ male connector, tip - ?v | female, outside, ground |
| 7 - 9v | outside - ground | +-------------+ |
| power |====================||||--- ]]] __ | |
| supply | ||___|-----+ | |
+-----------+ | female, | | |
| inside, | | |
| ?v | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| +-||-+ 0.1 mF |
| +------+ | | |
| | in +-+ | |
| | | | |
| | grnd +------+ |
| | | | |
| | out +-+ | |
| +------+ | | |
| 7805 | | |
| | | |
| +-||-+ 0.1 mF |
male connector | | | |
tip - 5v, | | | ground |
outside - ground | +--------|----+ |
+====+=======||||--- ]]] __ | |
| | ||___| | 5v |
ground | | 5v | +-------+ |
| | +----------------------------+
| |
| |
| +---- to glove pin 7 ---+
DB25 pin 18 -------+--------- to glove pin 1 |
DB25 pin 2 ----------------- to glove pin 2 |======== to glove box
DB25 pin 3 ----------------- to glove pin 3 |
DB25 pin 13 ----------------- to glove pin 4 ---+
NOTE: Connect the capacitors within about 1/4" of the 7805 for best
results
glove connector pin numbers
/--------+
/ o 1 |
| o 7 o 2 |
| o 6 o 3 |
| o 5 o 4 |
+----------+
glove pin number nintendo wire color curtis wire color
1 ground black orange
2 data clock orange red
3 latch yellow brown
4 data out green black
5 unused
6 unused
7 5v red white
DB25 pins
2 data clock
3 latch
13 data in
18 ground
2. Hooking them together using power from the PC
Ignore the circuit that provides the 5v and ground lines above. Instead,
get the 5v and ground from either:
1. an unused disk drive cable in your PC or
2. 5v from pin 5 on a keyboard port and ground from pin 4 of the
same keyboard port
All the other connections from the glove cable to the DB25 are the same,
including the ground connection.
keyboard connector -----
/ \
1 | o o | 3
4 \ o o o / 5
-----
2
Hope this helps. Feel free to add to and/or correct this information.
Bill wgerlt@atl.ge.com 12/20/91