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<text id=94TT0452>
<title>
Apr. 25, 1994: Streets Of Slaughter
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1994
Apr. 25, 1994 Hope in the War against Cancer
</history>
<article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
RWANDA, Page 44
Streets Of Slaughter
</hdr>
<body>
<p>Tribal bloodlust and political rivalry turn the country into
an unimaginable hell of killing, looting and anarchy
</p>
<p>By Marguerite Michaels--Reported by Clive Mutiso/Nairobi
</p>
<p> Thirty minutes before dawn last Wednesday, Hutu members of the
presidential guard kicked in the door of a church just east
of Rwanda's capital city of Kigali. Instantly, they opened fire
with semiautomatic weapons and tossed in grenades. Then, according
to Belgian news reports, they set upon the Tutsi parishioners
who were still alive with knives, bats and spears. Almost 1,200
civilians were massacred, more than half of them children.
</p>
<p> As the tribal carnage entered a second week in the tiny central
African country, the streets of Kigali were the domain of marauding
bands of men hacking down women and children on sight. Severed
heads and limbs piled up on street corners, the smell of decay
fouling the air. No matter how many bodies Red Cross workers
collected, more appeared. Boys carrying hand grenades threatened
passing cars, while drunken soldiers at makeshift barricades
terrorized civilians scurrying by. In a city without electricity
or water, the foolish few who ventured out into the streets
to forage for food were too traumatized to eat after passing
rows of mutilated bodies lying in pools of blood. "Hundreds
of thousands are cut off from anything decent or human," said
U.N. spokesman Moctar Gueye. "People are starving to death in
their own houses. Hospitals are not functioning."
</p>
<p> Rwandans packed into Kigali's hotels, huddling in the dark hallways
without food or beds, hoping the few foreigners there would
protect them. Their terror only increased as the foreigners
slipped away. At a hilltop compound for the insane, a group
of Belgian nuns and lay brothers abandoned 200 of their patients
in a desperate rush to escape. For days the clinic had been
surrounded by bands of machete-armed Hutu men. The foreigners
had little doubt about the future of their patients or the 500
Tutsis who had come for refuge from the fighting outside. "They're
finished," said hospital administrator Gerard Van Selst as he
boarded an armored Belgian convoy. "A huge number will be killed."
One American sheltered a fugitive opposition politician and
helped him to safety. But there were too many others he could
not help. "I saw scenes that will haunt me for the rest of my
life," he said. "Bodies. Piles of bodies, women and children.
Just piles of them."
</p>
<p> The numbing stacks of corpses were the grisly hallmark of a
horrifyingly intimate style of slaughter, literal hand-to-hand
combat. The predominantly Tutsi forces of the Rwandan Patriotic
Front and the Hutu-dominated army and presidential guard battled
each other with mortars, machine guns and hand grenades. But
what kept people shuddering in the darkest corners of their
homes were the machete-armed gangs of Hutu men on a wild killing
spree, often drunk and dressed in startling fashions looted
from abandoned stores and houses of the dead. Swaggering Hutu
men and boys paraded through the city, loaded with weapons and
cheap liquor. Many of the 20,000 victims died simply because
they were Tutsis. "More and more of the civilian population
armed with machetes are ruling the streets," said Philippe Gaillard,
head of the International Committee of the Red Cross in Kigali.
"The army can't control them."
</p>
<p> The bloodshed began after Presidents Juvenal Habyarimana of
Rwanda and Cyprien Ntaryamira of Burundi, both Hutus, died when
their plane crashed at Kigali airport almost two weeks ago.
A military team from Belgium, the former colonial power in Rwanda,
has concluded that the jet was shot down with rockets belonging
to the Rwandan army--most likely by the presidential guard
angered at plans to include Tutsis in the government. The 600-strong
guard began murdering all the Tutsis they could find. The army
soon joined in, as much to loot as to kill.
</p>
<p> After France, Belgium, Italy and the U.S. flew in military rescue
units, most of the 2,850 terrified foreign diplomats, aid workers
and missionaries were evacuated. Some wept with guilt over the
fate of Rwandan friends left behind. Theresa Scimeni, an American
teacher at the International School in Kigali, recalled the
horror before she and her husband and two young daughters were
rescued. "We heard each of the houses near us attacked in turn.
There would be firing, screams, then silence," she said, safe
in Nairobi. "Then a few minutes later the men would move to
the next house, and it would start all over again--and again."
</p>
<p> The Western troops could barely manage to protect their own
countrymen. A 2,400-member U.N. peacekeeping force, in Kigali
to monitor a peace accord signed last year, lost 10 of its Belgian
members when they tried to save the life of the Tutsi Prime
Minister. Some 12,000 people were under U.N. protection at the
national stadium and at the city's main hospital. But U.N. officials
were worried that the lightly armed peacekeepers would not have
the resources to cope. Chastened by the experience of Somalia,
the U.N. Security Council is unwilling to intervene with force,
and, for the most part, the troops in Kigali are confined to
their barracks. Belgium is withdrawing its 400 soldiers; U.N.
Secretary-General Boutros Boutros-Ghali told the Security Council
last week that unless there is a cease-fire soon, he will recommend
the withdrawal of all but a skeletal staff of 250 peacekeepers.
"If we are just cooped up watching them pound each other, then
we have to seriously assess the risk of keeping these soldiers
here," said the U.N. commander, General Romeo Dallaire of Canada.
</p>
<p> The best hope for Rwanda now seems to be the successful takeover
of the country by the rebels, who have promised to end the chaos.
Hundreds of rebel reinforcements were fighting their way into
the capital. While guerrillas inside Kigali carried out hit-and-run
attacks on government positions, thousands more bombarded the
city from positions in the hills to the north. Rwandan army
officers scoffed at the idea of a rebel victory in Kigali. But
the Front, which claims as many men as the army--about 20,000--is thought to be a better disciplined and more heavily armed
fighting force. It has flatly refused a cease-fire until the
presidential guard has surrendered or been liquidated. On Saturday,
however, both sides allowed food and medicine to be flown into
the capital.
</p>
<p> With no place to hide, tens of thousands of refugees lined the
roads in all directions, seeking a way out of the blood-soaked
city; the streams of misery stretched for miles. Most were on
foot, carrying meager bundles of possessions. Scores of people
crowded into buses and clung to the sides of any vehicle that
would attempt the twisting, mountainous roads. The wealthy raced
away in luxury cars with private bodyguards, the barrels of
automatic weapons jutting from every window. Danger still waited
at checkpoints every mile or so, manned by demoralized and frightened
Rwandan soldiers looking for loot.
</p>
<p> The Tutsi rebels have promised not to retaliate against the
Hutus and have pledged to end the slaughter. But the refugees
know just how many times that promise has been made over the
years by both tribes--and then broken.
</p>
</body>
</article>
</text>