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<text id=91TT2025>
<title>
Sep. 16, 1991: France:Communism a la Francaise
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1991
Sep. 16, 1991 Can This Man Save Our Schools?
</history>
<article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
WORLD, Page 38
FRANCE
Communism a la Francaise
</hdr><body>
<p>In a town in the "Red Belt" of Paris, the party tends the grass
roots and maintains its popular appeal
</p>
<p>By Margot Hornblower/Bobigny
</p>
<p> Enter town on Stalingrad Street. Take a whiff of the pink
and red flowers planted around V.I. Lenin's bust. Among the
high-rise concrete blocks of the Karl Marx Quarter, comrades are
hawking the latest edition of the Communist Party newspaper.
Plastered along Avenue Yury Gagarin, Nelson Mandela Street and
Avenue Salvador Allende, posters sport a red hammer and sickle
and a soft-sell slogan: A JOB, JUST TO SURVIVE.
</p>
<p> Welcome to Bobigny, fiefdom of the French Communist Party
and not about to apologize. Will they rebaptize the streets and
dismantle the monument to Vladimir Ilyich? Mayor Georges Valbon
grins broadly and shakes his head. "I was suckled on the milk of
the October Revolution," he says. "Lenin was a symbol of hope
for French workers and intellectuals." With his monogrammed
shirts and rough-hewn charm, Valbon, 67, has ruled blue-collar
Bobigny, a northeastern suburb of Paris, for two decades,
winning by 66% in the past mayoral election. "Communism is still
on the horizon," he contends. "We build it little by little,
not by decree."
</p>
<p> The optimism is overblown. The cordon of communist-run
industrial towns around Paris has frayed over the past decade
as the country, ever more prosperous, moves rightward. In the
1988 presidential election, the Communist Party polled only
6.8%. Nonetheless, even as Soviet totalitarianism
self-destructs, President Francois Mitterrand's minority
Socialist government depends on 26 Communist deputies to pass
its legislation. Unlike Communist parties in Italy and Spain,
France's apparatus has no plans to change its name. Forty-six
of France's 226 largest cities, including Bobigny, remain in
Communist Party hands. And there, the mood is a mixture of
nostalgic regret and last-ditch defiance.
</p>
<p> "Perhaps we should offer you a vodka," city councilor
Raymond Chapin quips to a reporter. In the next breath he grows
serious, recalling how, when he first joined the party two
decades ago, it sent its members to visit the Soviet Union,
"telling us it was a workers' paradise. Today," he acknowledges,
"that would make people laugh." Outside city hall, activist
Gerard Kourland is selling L'Humanite, the party organ, and
patiently explaining the difference between the Russian and
French parties: "We officially gave up on the dictatorship of
the proletariat in 1976. And even before then, we had our
doubts."
</p>
<p> In Bobigny self-interest has replaced ideology, and the
Communists have built their political machine on a hair-trigger
response to the grass roots. "They blanket the city," says
opposition city councilor Jean-Luc Romero. "The moment anyone
loses a job, a party worker stops by to offer help, part-time
employment or a social subsidy." Among Bobigny's 44,000
residents, the 2,700 Communist activists are organized into 70
neighborhood and factory-based cells. If a family cannot pay the
rent in its low-income housing project, the local cell leader
will intervene with the authorities. If police show up to evict,
cell members have been known to physically block the gendarmes.
Naturally, beneficiaries are expected to respond at election
time.
</p>
<p> The city sends hundreds of children to the country for
summer vacations. It subsidizes three clinics for outpatient
care. Municipal retirement homes shelter the elderly. Last week,
street-corner notices invited students who cannot find places
in universities to come to city hall for help. The largesse is
financed by higher taxes on local business and subsidies from
Socialist allies in state ministries.
</p>
<p> Communist goodwill extends even to religion. On a recent
Sunday, fresh carnations adorned the statue of the Virgin Mary
in what Bobigny residents call Karl Marx church, although the
official name of the sanctuary on Karl Marx Avenue is St.
Andre's. In his sermon before 150 faithful, Father Jean Dechet
tactfully avoided the subject of communism's demise. "Christians
and communists collaborate here," he said after the service.
"The communists are attentive to people's needs.'' Ten years
ago, Valbon's government paid $500,000 to build a new church.
</p>
<p> In Bobigny's mall, where the wine and cheese shop faces
the Belgian chocolate shop, where McDonald's shovels out Big
Macs and the video-store window displays the Gummi Bears,
distinctions between communists and capitalists blur. Outside,
three dozen streets are named for French communists, pacifists
and revolutionaries. Politically correct artists are
commemorated: the Pablo Picasso Metro station, the Charlie
Chaplin Cultural Center and, most recently, a street named for
detective-story writer Dashiell Hammett, once blacklisted as a
communist. What does the future hold? A symbolic test looms, in
the form of a new sports center. The city council's right-wing
minority has proposed naming it the Andrei Sakharov Swimming
Pool. The communists are squirming. Says Romero: "That really
stumped them."
</p>
</body></article>
</text>